All posts tagged: terminology

Terminology: What is a Pierrot jacket?

This week’s terminology post is by a guest author that many of you will be familiar with: Lauren Reeser of American Duchess.  We all know Lauren for her gorgeous 18th century recreations (and other eras), but mostly for her amazing, fabulous reproduction historical shoes. In fact, pre-orders for the delightful early 20th century ‘Astorias’ close on the 3rd of Feb (just two days from now) so hurry if you want to nab yourself a pair at a discount! Instead of talking about shoes, Lauren is going to discuss the history of one of her favourite 18th century garments: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Those of you who are into 18th century costuming may be familiar with the various styles of jackets that became popular in the second half, and particularly the last quarter, of that century. The most common tag for a jacket is “caraco,” but within that vast and over-used term, we have most commonly the casaquin, pet en l’air, and pierrot. Each of these has its own styling cues, and interesting origins of their names. How about …

Terminology: What is a chesterfield coat?

The chesterfield is a man’s overcoat with simple vertical seams, no side-back piece, and a velvet collar, usually in grey with black. The velvet collar is the defining feature of the chesterfield (as the fitted waist has since been lost) and is said to be based on the black strips that supporters of the old regime sewed on their jackets after the execution of Louis XVI in 1793.  This last bit, while quite romantic and appealing, is, alas, probably apocryphal. According to The Encyclopedia of Fashion, the coat was named after Phillip Dormer Stanhope, 4th Earl of Chesterfield, .  This seems somewhat improbable, Stanhope died in 1773.  As the first known use of the term was in the 1840s, it seems likely it refers to a 19th century Earl of Chesterfield, perhaps the 6th Earl of Chesterfield, who cut a bit of a swath in London the 1830s and 40s.  There are certainly references to it as a Lord Chesterfield coat, indicating a link between the Lord and the coat. The Chesterfield was interesting as …

Terminology: The So-Called ‘Viking’ Apron Dress

For my first guest writer for the terminology series, I’m very excited to introduce Cathy Raymond, of  Loose Threads: Yet Another Costuming Blog. Cathy’s Medieval and earlier focused blog is one of my favourite textile reads because her area of research is well outside my usual scope, meaning that I learn something new with every post. At the same time, her writing is so thoughtful and considered that it makes me continually realise how timeless and universal textiles are, and how relevant the way we think about the scraps of fabric found in Viking burials (for example) is to the way we think about fashion and textile design today.  So without further ado, Cathy: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Hello! I’m Cathy Raymond.  The Dreamstress has asked me to contribute a guest post about an item of costume terminology characteristic of my preferred area of costume research, namely, the Migration Period and that part of the early Middle Ages often called the “Viking Age”. Unfortunately, as one delves back into what is known about costume in these periods, it …