All posts tagged: terminology

Terminology: What is a bosom friend?

To go with our 18th century ‘Rate the Dress‘, this week’s terminology post is 18th century.  Our term: bosom friend. A bosom friend isn’t just the 18th century word for your BFF.  It is, literally, a friend for your bosom: a shaped tippet of wool, flannel, or fur, and later a knitted scarf, which kept the chest warm and served as a bust enhancer for less well endowed women. Bosom friends were worn from the late 18th century till the mid 19th.  They were particularly useful with the low necklines and thin muslin dresses at the turn of the century. A 1789 entry in the Norfolk Chronicle explains the garment: The fashionable belles have provided themselves with bosom friends for the winter.  Their province is to protect that delicate region from assault in every kind; and they may be had at all the furriers shops in town. Once muslin became the predominant fabric, bosom friends weren’t just for winter use.  In 1802  Nancy Woodeford, a country parson’s niece from Norfolk, England, wrote of a friend …

Terminology: What is marquisette?

Marquisette is a sheer, lightweight mesh or net fabric with a leno weave.  It can be made from almost any fibre: silk, cotton, wool, rayon, nylon, polyester and a blend of any of the above.  It is used for dresses, curtains, and mosquito netting.  It is very similar to  grenadine, but with a slightly more open weave.  Marquisette can look quite different depending on the fibres used and variants and finished applied to the weave. Finding images of antique dresses made of marquisette is problematic as few museums and garment sellers look at the fabric closely enough (you need to inspect it under a very strong magnifying glass to see the weave) to correctly label marquisette.  Many extent 19teens gowns probably include marquisette, but are not labelled as such. The earliest mention I can find for marquisette is an ad for wool and silk ‘box robes’ in 1907, but the term is in quotation marks, indicating that  it is still a new and novel word.  This must be one of the earliest usages of the …

Terminology: What is a picot hem?

If you crochet or knit you are probably familiar with a picot hem, or a picot edge – a series of looped threads along the edge of your knitting or crocheting, which can be used for functional or decorative purposes.  A ‘picot’ is a single one of these loops) If you are a really dedicated crafter, you might even know the same term from tatting (which is characterised by its use of picots), or know that some types of lace commonly use picots. Picot edges are less well known in sewing these days, but you should, because  1) they are awesome, and 2) they are a common sewing technique in the 1920s and 30s, worked both by machine, and by hand. In sewing, a picot edge is a rolled hem with a zig zag stitch sewn over the hem to hold it.  It is usually worked on very fine, lightweight fabrics such as chiffon. When I first saw a picot edge, I thought it must have been a very simple, cheap, low quality finish, such …