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The Designer, August 1916 thedreamstress.com

Building Your Own 1910s & WWI Wardrobe: Dresses, Coats & Jackets

Continuing on my series on making your own 1910s & WWI era wardrobe (with a focus on 1914-19), here are patterns for making your classic separates: blouses, skirts & suits. The patterns I’ve included here are from pattern companies I’ve made items from, or have helped students or friends make items from, and can recommend on that basis. I have not included pattern companies that I do not recommend, or pattern companies I have seen or tested in any way. I also do not include patterns that are essentially modern blocks updated with a period aesthetic: I find that they rarely give the correct look. Other posts in the series include: Undergarments Blouses, Skirts & Suits  Hope you find it helpful! Dresses: Sense & Sensibility 1914 Afternoon dress  (note that in my opinion this pattern is only borderline accurate.  If you want a general impression its fine, if you need to be obsessively accurate it might not be your best choice). Vintage Pattern Lending Library: 1918 Dinner dress with optional tunic (36” bust only): Vintage Pattern …

The Pictoral Review, July 1916

Lingerie frocks from the Pictorial Review 1915 & 1916

Following on from my terminology post about lingerie dresses and lingerie frocks, here are a few more advertisements featuring lingerie frocks from the June 1915 and July 1916 issues of the Pictoral Review magazine. These illustrations show patterns sold by the American Fashion Company.  The detailed images give ideas for fabrics and trim, while the simple line drawings show the basic dress lines. Pictoral Review June 1915 Pictoral Review June 1915 Pictoral Review June 1915 The simple line drawings also show other pattern variants, like the fancy puffed mameluke sleeves of 6203, instead of the simpler sleeves shown above. Pictoral Review June 1915 The July 1916 page shows fashions for spectators and sportswomen.  It should be pretty clear which is which! This page is quite interesting, because it shows how garments were considered ‘frocks’ or ‘dresses’ even when they were two-piece garments. (side note, how adorable are those hats?  The sculptural ribbons on the one with the plaid dress, and the little tipped-up bergére revival hat on the far right… delicious!) Check out how the …

Terminology: what is a lingerie dress or lingerie frock? (and blouse, and skirt)

Tea Gowns vs. Lingerie Dresses Start searching for the ubiquitous Edwardian white cotton & lace dresses online, and you’ll quickly find a name for them: tea gowns.  There are hundreds on etsy by that name.  Vintage Textile uses the term.  Augusta Auctions sells them in lots of three in every sale that includes 1900s garments. Those are NOT tea gowns (well, more precisely, they were never called tea gowns in any era in which this style of dress was fashionable).  Or tea dresses. Tea gowns is a specific period term that refers to a a totally different kind of garment.  This is a tea gown: As is this: And this. Note how different those examples are from the ones on all the sales sites?  That’s because they are totally different styles of garment. Tea gowns were made of rich, heavy fabrics, often in colours, and usually featured elaborate, trailing sleeves.  You can read more about them here. In contrast, the dresses called tea gowns by modern sellers are made in very lightweight, delicate fabrics, almost …