All posts filed under: Textiles & Costume

A 1910s-early 20s brassiere/bust cover, thedreamstress.com

An early 1920s brassiere

It’s been a long, long time since I’ve done a ‘Textiles on Thursday’ post and shown you a textile from my collection, so it’s time to remedy that. For today, a fun, simple piece: an early 1920s brassiere / camisole: The brassiere is made of silk moire-taffeta with a jacquard woven pattern of morning glories. It’s trimmed with a wide lace border at the top edge, which has been scooped down and hemmed  under the arms: There are vertical lines of lace over the front bust: And edging of beading at top and bottom.  Originally it would have had narrow silk ribbon running through the beading, to gather the brassiere in above and below the bust: The brassiere was held up by silk ribbon straps, with jacquard-woven patterns of harebells (one hopes that this is well after Victorian flower symbolism has been well left behind: otherwise this is a most un-promising garment, with morning glories for love in vain, and harebells for grief!) It measures 10″ deep at the centre front and back (8″ + a 1″ wide lace …

Ruffled unders at Ruffles & Rebellion thedreamstress.com

Ruffled Unders at Ruffles to Rebellion

I am buried under piles of ruffles (literally – having spent most of the day hemming and ruffling 12 meters of silk organza for a travelling petticoat for Ninon, only to decide in the end I didn’t like the way it looked…) getting ready for Costume College, so I’m pulling out a fun costume pretties post that I’ve had stashed in case of emergency (aka:  when I decide I really need a new dress, and have only two days in which to sew it…) This is ‘Priscilla’ in the outfit she wore as a model for the Ruffles to Rebellion talk. Priscilla claims that she’s no good at posing, but I think she’s a natural in front of the camera. Doesn’t she look just adorable in the outfit?   (she joked that she agreed to model just so that she had an excuse to wear nothing but underwear to church!) B doesn’t approve! This is my favourite photo of the series – it absolutely captures Priscilla’s personality: (photos by the fantastic Facundo, who is always looking for new models …

The Black & White 1916 corset

On Monday I’m going to start living as close as I can to a 1916 lifestyle for two weeks. Naturally, this means I need a wardrobe.  A whole wardrobe post is coming, but for now, let’s start with the item everyone is really interested in: corsets. Based on my research, the average middle-class NZ housewife in 1916 had between 1 & 3 corsets at any given time: 1 or 2 for everyday wear, and possibly a fancier, more constricting one for dressing up.  Two corsets is ideal for everyday wear, because it means one can be airing while you wear the other. I’ve decided on two corsets for my experiment.  One, based on a slightly earlier cut, that Leimomi circa 1916 might have had in her wardrobe from before the war, and this one, reflecting the more recent mid-teens cut: Previously all of my 1910s corsets have been based on my personally fitted draft of the 1911 corset in Janet Arnold’s book.   However, very few women in NZ would have had personally fitted corsets.  The …