All posts tagged: 1780s

A red silk 1780s petticoat

A red silk 1780s petticoat

I made a thing! Right now my life is a sea of toiles for the next Scroop + Virgil’s pattern, and it seems like I will never get to sew anything that isn’t calico (that’s muslin for those in the US). So it’s doubly exciting to have taken a little time to make something not-toile, and in such scrumptious fabric too. I have some 1780s sewing (to go over the Scroop & Virgil’s Augusta Stays of course!) planned for this year, and I looked at all my fabrics, and realised that what they all had in common was that they would look great with a red petticoat. I had no suitable red in stash, but when I was shopping for fabrics for the Robin Dress samples I let myself linger in The Fabric Stores silk section (always a dangerous activity) and they had an amazing silk-cotton faille in bright red. I wanted a dark red, but the fabric was so scrumptious, and such a perfect match to the weight and hand of one of the …

A late 18th c bum rump

In my continued effort to not have this blog turn into one of those sites where the blogger starts a pattern line and never talks about anything but her patterns ever again, I present my latest totally-not-Scroop-related* historical sewing make: A 1780s bum rump! To make my bum rump I referred to: The tutorial in The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking; plus Demodé’s excellent post exploring late 18th century skirt supports; plus Extant images and mentions The American Duchess book has a great tutorial on making a 1780s bum rump, and I used it as my starting point. However, I have noticed it makes a slightly ‘corner-y’ bum, that pokes out in a square at the sides. It still looks amazing under anything with a full skirt, like an ‘Italian’ gown or a polonaise, but not so good if worn with a little jacket. To see if I could make a less poke-y shape, I consulted Kendra’s great blog post, which has been the inspiration for most of my 18th c skirt support …

The Augusta Stays: Inspiration, or a survey of 1780s stays

Rather than basing the Augusta Stays on one particular pair of extant stays, we took inspiration from a number of surviving stays, to create a stay pattern that reflected the most common and popular features of 1780s stays. Amber used her experience in mantua making and stay fitting to pick boning layouts that would be most flattering and comfortable on a wide range of bodies. She also chose design elements that adapt well to the modern alternatives to historical materials, and construction methods that are moderately easy: good for sewists attempting their first pair of fully historical stays. Here are some of the stays that we looked at to inform the Augusta pattern. Each features the partial front lacing, scooped neckline, and forward thrusting silhouette of the 1780s, but there are subtle differences in boning layouts, tab design, strap fastening, and fabric and finishes. I will admit that not much of this pair made it into the final pattern, but I still love the fabulous colour, and it did influence our tab shapes: