All posts tagged: 1900s

Rate the Dress: a flower garden in white, ca 1910

Last week’s Rate the Dress was an extremely mauve 1860s extravaganza with gold straw embroidery.  Some things you all agreed on.  By and large, everyone was very impressed by the straw embroidery, but not everyone liked the way it worked with the mauve, or the combination of motifs in the embroidery.  Some things split you into two groups.  Generally you were either very pro-bow, or very anti-bow when it came to the evening bodice, and very pro-mauve, or anti-mauve when it came to the colour.  The trickiest thing divided you into more opinions than I could count.  Was the day bodice cut for a fuller figure, or for a fashionably shapeless silhouette? (I lean towards the former, because as a dressmaker, I don’t think you could get the shape to stay without a body’s curves under it to support it).  And, whichever you believed, was the shape a nice change, or frumpy? The shape was very tricky indeed, because it brought up the issue of body shapes, and how we talk about them.  In Rate …

Rate the Dress: a belle in bows, 1898-1900

Oh dear…last week’s late 1860s Rate the Dress… OK, some of you did like it!  But it came in for some harsh criticism, and some pretty bad analogies: tongues, teeth & Daleks for starts!  And even most of you who did like it liked it in spite of itself.  Kit promised to “enter therapy and bind 40 half ovals as a penance” for her high score.  I’m kind of in the same boat.  I know it was awful, and yet, I felt it could have been really effective on the right person – if it only weren’t for the mess happening at the bottom of the bodice.  I can forgive ugly (as long as it’s effective) but I can’t forgive bad construction, so my rating would only have been a 5 – lower than your average score, which was just a tiny bit below the average of 5.9 out of 10 that it came out at. I’ve kept within the same colour scheme this week: black and ivory, with just a touch of another colour. …

TVEO1, 1900s Edwardian corset thedreamstress.com

Time to be my own hero: adventures in Edwardian corsetmaking

The 1900s ‘Touch of blue’ corset that I made recently was the first 1900s corset that I’ve finished, but it wasn’t the first that I started. (brace yourself for a long post, full of problems!) I’ve had the TVE01 Edwardian corset pattern in my stash since shortly after it came out, but hadn’t gotten around to making it up.  Then Lauren of Wearing History made a gorgeous version of it in green brocade back in March 2014, and I fell in love, pulled out my pattern, and immediately started my own version. I had green on my mind thanks to Lauren’s version, so I picked a silk taffeta in pale spring green, and a midweight herringbone twill cotton for backing and support. Lauren had mentioned that she must have measured wrong, because hers came out quite small.  So I measured very carefully, and checked the pattern very carefully, and was a little generous in picking my size. I flat lined everything, sewed everything together, added stunt bones, and  a stunt lacing strip, and tried on the …