Year: 2011

Emily’s dress: recreating a 1903-1904 evening dress

I’m working on a very interesting, and challenging, new project. This is Emily’s dress: It was made for Emily Jane Whitley, the daughter of a wealthy Auckland storekeeper, between 1902 and 1904.  Emily wore it to balls and parties on Auckland’s social scene in the years before her marriage to a Manuwatu farmer, Percy Mildon, in 1905. We even have a photograph of Emily in her dress: It’s a fascinating dress because we know its history, and can make a reasonable guess at how it was made.  The Whitley store sold fabric, and probably had an attached sewing workshop, so it is very likely that the dress fabric came from the family store, and was made up by the store seamstress. So what’s my project?  Well, I’m attempting to recreate not just Emily’s dress, but the whole process of making Emily’s dress. I’m using my 1903 peddle sewing machine, a late 19th century guide to dressmaking, and a period pattern available in a NZ magazine.  I’m even wearing a corset and the type of outfit …

Sucky suck

My computer keyboard is dying.  It won’t  type lowercase  t’s (only now, in the last 5 minutes, it has started tyin ‘qty’ whenever I hit the ‘t’ key), or any ps,  bs or gs.  And it thinks that the ‘-‘ key adjusts  the sound. And  the inbuilt spellcheck won’t work , so I have  to cut and paste all the missing letters from other documents. So, instead of  telling you all about my new project, the computer is going t0 the shop, and there will be no posts from me for a few days 🙁 BNZecause you really don’ wan o read a unch of osIOTUYs aou Emily’s eauiful ink dress, circa 1904, wih los of missin leers and srane hins when he comuer sars ryin ot uess wha I am sayin.  And I don’ wan o ry o wrie like ha eiher 🙁

A 1920s Asian for the Western market coat

Mrs C has given me a very interesting textile on long term loan, and I thought it would be the perfect ‘Textiles on Thursday’ feature. The textile is an embroidered silk coat with a rabbit fur lining. The coat is fascinating for all sorts of reasons.  It’s an excellent example of an export textile, made in Asia (probably China, possibly Japan) for the Western market.  As an export textile, it’s particularly interesting because it isn’t a particularly luxurious item.  Chinese design features aside, the coat is a great piece of early 1920s fashion.  Finally, it’s an exciting vintage item because it isn’t that small, it easily fits a modern 14-16.  Poor Isabelle is a little swamped in it! So, let’s break it down.  First, what’s this export textile thing? Well, the West has had a love affair with Eastern goods and aesthetics for centuries.  Just look at Chinoiserie in the 18th century and Japonism in the 19th century, as well as the trade in kashmir shawls in both. The newest trends in Eastern imports always …