All posts filed under: 18th Century

Terminology: What is calamanco?

Calamanco (also spelled callimanco, calimanco, and kalamink) is a thin fabric of worsted wool yarn which could come in a number of weaves: plain, satin, damasked, and was even brocaded in floral, striped and checked designs. The surface was glazed or calendered (pressed through hot rollers). References to calamanco go back to the late 16th century, but calamanco’s heyday was from the end of the 17th century to the end of the 18th century. It was a popular fabric for women’s gowns and petticoats and men’s waistcoats, though it was gradually replaced by cotton and linen calico as a dress fabric. Daniel Defoe mentions a petticoat of black calamanco in 1720, and they remained popular among the rural populace until the early 19th century. He also describes the wardrobe of the ‘poorest countryman’ in England and notes his ‘waistcoat of calimanco from Norwich.’ At least in the beginning of the century, calamanco wasn’t confined to the common man’s waistcoat. The Tatler in 1709 describes the wardrobe of the ‘Dapper’. The habit of a Dapper when …

Terminology: What is a Pierrot jacket?

Published by The Dreamstress

This week’s terminology post is by a guest author that many of you will be familiar with: Lauren Reeser of American Duchess. We all know Lauren for her gorgeous 18th century recreations (and other eras), but mostly for her amazing, fabulous reproduction historical shoes. In fact, pre-orders for the delightful early 20th century ‘Astorias’ close on the 3rd of Feb (just two days from now) so hurry if you want to nab yourself a pair at a discount! Instead of talking about shoes, Lauren is going to discuss the history of one of her favourite 18th century garments: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Those of you who are into 18th century costuming may be familiar with the various styles of jackets that became popular in the second half, and particularly the last quarter, of that century. The most common tag for a jacket is “caraco,” but within that vast and over-used term, we have most commonly the casaquin, pet en l’air, and pierrot. Each of these has its own styling cues, and interesting origins of their names. How about …

Rate the Dress: Summer of 1778

Published by The Dreamstress

Despite the possible oddness and uncomfortableness of a boned skirt, and not everyone getting the Japanese influence (it was the best sort of influence – very subtle, most Japanese in that respect, among others!) most of you soundly approved of last week’s green party frock, and it rated a perfect 9 out of 10. You’ve already seen this fashion plate featuring a very summery yellow and lilac frock of 1778 in my post on sabot sleeves, but I thought it deserved a closer look. The fashion plate describes the dress as (roughly – my French is pretty bad) A Circassienne dress in the new style, of gauze in a sulphur colour, with trim in lilac gauze. The flounce trim is in the same colour as the dress, as is the bottom of the sabot. The whole thing trimmed in lilac and purple, even to the headdress What do you think? Do you like yellow and purple, or is the whole thing a bit twee, with all its pastels and ruffles and bows and polonaised skirts? …