All posts filed under: 18th Century

What to wear under a quilted petticoat?

A reader has just finished her own hand-quilted 18th century petticoat (massive kudos and envy here!) and wants to know what to wear under it. Based on my research: anything from large formal hoops to nothing but a shift and perhaps another petticoat, but bumrolls and small panniers were probably the most common, at least for the relatively well-to-do in the later 18th century. When I get around to making a proper silk hand-quilted one myself I plan to pleat my petticoat with an even hem, but extra pleating at the sides, so it could be worn with small panniers and a bumroll, or without, as we see in this petticoat: Quilted petticoats were informal winter (well, cold-weather) wear ubiquitous across England, and common in France and America as well.  Buck calls them “the undress of the country gentlewoman” (p. 72), though some extent petticoats seem to have been worn with more formal gowns. As they were generally informal, I found few mentions of quilted petticoats over wide hoops in the later 18th century, though …

Finished project: the very dreadful silver stays

Well, for better or worse the silver stays of doom are finally done. They continued their inclination to bad luck through the last few steps.  As I was working the eyelets they got sparkling apple juice splashed on them.  Luckily it didn’t stain the linen, but liquid is very bad for kid leather, so I think I’m going to have to replace part of the binding at some point. And then, after all the fuss about loosing the shoulder straps and having to cut a new pair, once I got all the eyelets worked and was finally able to try the thing, on the shoulder straps just didn’t work very well.  So all that  perfect, painstaking hand stitching got unpicked, the back got cut down just a little and I now have strapless stays. Without the shoulder straps tying in pretty bows in front, the front has little visual interest, so I felt the need to lace it with fancy ribbon.  Of course, this means I can only unlace it via the back, which means …

Blue and white

There is something so timeless about the combination of blue and white.  It’s serene and elegant, feminine without being girly, evocative of toile de jouy, something blue on brides, and favourite things. Here are some of my blue and white favourites. Can’t you just imagine dancing the night away in these sweet shoes? This bonnet was 20 year old Luciana Foster’s ‘something blue’, worn with a sand coloured silk faille wedding dress, for her 1861 wedding. These undersleeves would add a charming touch of blue  and white to any frock: I positively covet these blue and white pockets, and am going to make my own pair as soon as I find the perfect toile. The blue and white could also be your own secret.  Wouldn’t you just love knowing of the blue lining of these white kid boots?