All posts filed under: 19th Century

The Kashmiri Shawl, and the dress made of Kashmir shawls

I love paisley (the design) and the history of Kashmir shawls.  The interaction between the paisley design and Western fashion is fascinating, with both elements impacting the other in equal fashion. Kashmiri shawls were first introduced to Europe in the late 18th century by English traders who had encountered them in India.  In India the shawls were worn by men, but in Europe they were taken up by women as the perfect warm wrap to accompany to new light muslin dresses.  The cashmere wool was lighter, softer and warmer than anything available in Europe at the time, and the paisley patterns were deliciously exotic to Western eyes.  Kashmiri shawls were also the perfect status symbol – they were extraordinarily rare, and prohibitively expensive. As with anything rare, expensive and incredibly desirable, those who could afford it flaunted it, and those who couldn’t scrambled to find a cheaper alternative.  Manufacturers in Europe almost immediately began to replicate paisley designs (the name paisley comes from Paisley in Scotland where many imitation Kashmiri shawls were made) on wool-silk …

Rate the Dress: Winter Fantasy

I was quite surprised by the very enthusiastic response to Queen Adelaide last week.  The 1830s are usually so unpopular, and Adelaide’s velvet and lace dress had so much potential for ridicule, and yet so many of you loved it, giving it an 8.4 out of 10.  Sweets to the sweet then! This week I thought I’d carry on the zig-zag vandyked theme that we have had for the last few weeks, and (since it is Christmas), give you a bonus double rate the dress.    What do you think of these two young ladies and their festive skating attire? I don’t know a great deal about this artwork.  Based on the overall silhouettes and the trim on the garments, I think it’s late 1860s, and I doubt it was really intended to be literally copied in actual garments, but, hey, every once in a while we can have a little fun with fantasy! Are our heroines having fun with fantasty?  How would you rate each of their frocks?  Do you prefer the blonde in …

The ‘Madame Monet’ underbust corset

The inspiration for this corset was Claude Monet’s portrait of his wife, Camille, in a kimono against a background of Japanese fans, reflecting the mania for all things Japanese that was sweeping Europe in the wake of Japan’s opening to the West. I’ve like way the underbust corset echos both an obi and the Western fashions of the 1870s, playing on the influences in Monet’s painting.  And I love the fabric I chose and the way it also echoes the blend of East and West: using traditional Japanese motifs and weaving techniques for a fabric that was intended for the very Western practice of quilt making. I lined the corset in some fabric left over from my  Ice Cream Banana blouse, and bound it with some vintage polished cotton.  I wish the front busk was gold, to match the gilding on the fabric and the gold grommets and aiglets, but gold busks are almost twice the price of silver, and take weeks to order in. For the photoshoot I pinned all of my Japanese fans …