All posts filed under: 20th Century

My 1940s patterns: all the other goodies

I’ve shown you my 1940s daywear patterns, and my 1940s evening wear patterns, and my 1940s blouses & shorts & playsuits, now it’s time for everything else. So what’s left? Coats. Of course, you’ve already seen Advance 4916 and know it is quite a favourite of mine. There are also hats.  How cute are the ones in Butterick 1690?  Best of all, I actually have hats my grandmother made from these as part of scout uniforms.  D’awwww. In the children’s clothes vein, I also have, Academy 3450, a pattern for (wait for it) child’s jodhpurs!  Squee!  So exciting!  Tiny they may be, but I am totally going to size these up and make this for myself.  I think it is wonderful that there was enough of a market for  jodhpurs in New Zealand for Academy to do their own jodhpur pattern. From children to pre-children, I’m pretty sure  Butterick 4019 is 1940s (super broad square shoulders, mandarin collars and an oriental fastening are kind of a giveaway), but it’s definitely maternity wear.  Check out those …

Terminology: What is a balmacaan?

We’ve looked at items of womenswear like swiss waists, and fabric for womenswear like aerophane.  I think it’s high time for a menswear terminology post. How about a balmacaan?  A balmacaan is a single-breasted, unstructured calf-length overcoat with raglan sleeves and a Prussian collar, usually made of tweed or gabardine. Balmacaans started as menswear in the mid-19th century, and were adopted for womenswear at the end of the century (sorry, can’t help it.  Pretty much every article of menswear has been incorporated into womenswear at some point).  They were particularly popular as motoring coats for women in the first few decades of the 20th century. The name balmacaan comes from the Balmacaan estate which is near Inverness in Scotland.  Intriguingly, the term balmacaan for a coat does not seem to have been used in New Zealand, though one of the few New Zealand-born hereditary lords, the 11th Earl of Seaford, inherited the estate as part of his baronetcy. Balmacaans are definitely meant as outerwear.  Their loose shape makes them eminently suitable for pulling over layers …

The Little Bit of Red/Lips Kiss My Blues Away remake

Last week’s challenge on the Sew Weekly was music.  I had dreams of something elaborate involving metres & metres of  blue crepe, but the plans went awry (not sewing mistakes) and made me very blue indeed.  So I needed something to chase those blues away, and what better than one of my favourite songs, a fix up of my  Little Bit of Red  dress (remember how I was never thrilled with it?), and some Besame Red lipstick? The song is    Red Lips Kiss My Blues Away, and the cover artwork is adorable: My Little Bit of Red dress is not a perfect match to the Red Lips Kiss My Blues Away cover art, but I thought with a bit of tweaking the Little Bit of Red dress could effectively capture the mood of the poster, and rescue my sewing week (plus get something off my UFO pile). So I completely pulled apart my Little Bit of Red Dress, re-shaped the bodice, re-set the bodice ruffles, took in the skirt, cut hip ruffles, hemmed said …