All posts filed under: 20th Century

Terminology: What is Aerophane

Aerophane has been on my to-do list for a terminology post for ages, and then, when this Rate the Dress turned out to be Aerophane I thought “ah-hah!  I simply must do it now!” So what is aerophane? Well, there is a bit of confusion about it.  At its most basic, it is a fine, slightly crisp, silk gauze, sometimes with a slightly crinkled, crepe appearance.  In The Book of Silk Phillipa Scott describes it as: Fine thin silk crêpe, popular in the early nineteenth century for decorative appliques, as raised motifs, or applied and re-embroidered, and for pleated and gathered dress trimmings. ‘Aerophane’ is also used to describe a type of ribbon embroidery, where wider, crisper silk strips are used to create three dimensional ornamentation (usually roses). Aerophane embroidery is probably so called because the silk that was originally used for it was aerophane silk, but it is used somewhat indiscriminately these days, making it impossible to tell if someone means that the aerophane roses on a dress are roses made of aerophane silk, …

Rate the Dress: Callot Soeurs sheers in 1907

Last week the mantua in very large Spitalfields silk came very close to a perfect score (or at least as perfect as we’re likely to get with so many voters!).  But some of you thought the print was a little big, and some of you thought the sleeves were a little blocky, and some of you didn’t like it because it wasn’t your period.  (Hmmmm…..not sure how I feel about that last reason…) So it came in at a 9.1 out of 10.  Still quite impressive! I’m not sure why I picked the following dress for this week’s ‘Rate the Dress’, except that I saw it an immediately said “Rate the Dress.  Next week.  That one.” So this one it is: It’s sea green over nude.  It has layers of sheers and pintucks and embroidery and sashes and overskirts and trims and poofs.  It speaks to me, but I just can’t put my finger on what it is saying. So what do you think?  Did I subconsciously pick it because it is controversial, stunning, hideous, …

Terminology: What is Roshanara?

Roshanara is the trade name for a silk or silk-worsted wool blend fabric with a rough crepe texture. Roshanara was popular in the 20s and 30s, but was notorious for shrinking when wet.  It is nearly impossible to find Roshanara, or a Roshanara equivalent, today. Roshanara was first introduced into New Zealand in 1920, but appears in ads in the US from 1918.  The name probably comes from the famous Roshanara Club in Delhi, which was in turn named after the Mughal princess Roshanara Begum. While Roshanara was primarily made of silk (possibly with a small amount of wool), it was meant to replace wool fabrics, which were in short supply due to the use of wool in soldiers uniforms during WWI.  This ad from an April 1918 El Paso Herald extolls the economic virtues of silk, and encourages women to buy it instead of wool.  Note the inclusion of the very patriotic and military inspired ‘Khaki Kool’ fabric. The exotic rough texture of Roshanara, and how closely its introduction co-oincided with the discovery of …