All posts filed under: 20th Century

Terminology: What is a chesterfield coat?

The chesterfield is a man’s overcoat with simple vertical seams, no side-back piece, and a velvet collar, usually in grey with black. The velvet collar is the defining feature of the chesterfield (as the fitted waist has since been lost) and is said to be based on the black strips that supporters of the old regime sewed on their jackets after the execution of Louis XVI in 1793.  This last bit, while quite romantic and appealing, is, alas, probably apocryphal. According to The Encyclopedia of Fashion, the coat was named after Phillip Dormer Stanhope, 4th Earl of Chesterfield, .  This seems somewhat improbable, Stanhope died in 1773.  As the first known use of the term was in the 1840s, it seems likely it refers to a 19th century Earl of Chesterfield, perhaps the 6th Earl of Chesterfield, who cut a bit of a swath in London the 1830s and 40s.  There are certainly references to it as a Lord Chesterfield coat, indicating a link between the Lord and the coat. The Chesterfield was interesting as …

A nautical playsuit

Remember the darling little halter-neck playsuit from last week? Well, when I sent the toile for it to S. she noticed how much it looked like a sailor suit in white, and liked it so much that she asked me to make her a second playsuit, this one with a nautical theme. I suggested mixing things up a bit, and using a different bodice for the top half of the playsuit, specifically this little cutie from my pattern collection: We settled on blue fabric with a detachable white collar with red trim, and cute blue buttons with ‘X’es on them that remind me of compasses. The bodice top married to the shorts from the original playsuit well, all I had to do was adjust for a back fastening rather than a side fasteningso that she could get in and out of it. To play-up the nautical inspiration I added little white piping at the front pleats. Like the floral playsuit, this one has a skirt to button over it.  I made this skirt a little …

I want these shoes so much

American Duchess has just launched her first 20th century shoe: pre-orders are open for the Astoria 1900-1915 Edwardian Shoe.  I’m very much in impressed and want one in each colour!  Clearly I need to talk to Mr D about an extravagant early/late Valentines present. As much as I adore the Astoria’s, these lovelies were my first Edwardian shoe love, the first early-20th century shoe to have me plastered to the computer screen saying “OOooooh…want…now!”: Aren’t they gorgeous? Aren’t they swoon worthy?  Don’t you just want a pair in dye-able silk that you can add your own sequins and diamantes to and tie with any color bow? American Duchess, please add them to your to-do list!