All posts filed under: Sewing

Things I sew – historical and modern

1760s stays with theatrical construction thedreamstress.com

Stay with me (for over a year, because that’s how long these 1760’s stays took to finish)

When I started teaching costume construction at Toi Whakaari: the New Zealand Drama School last year, I decided I should do some of the projects that the costuming students do as part of their coursework, so I knew how the garments were taught and constructed in the course. It was also a good way to familiarise myself with ‘my’ industrial machine. Every costume shop has its own ‘house rules’, and, while there are general method groupings, there are literally an infinite number of ways to make any specific costume item. Every year the first year costumers build a theatrical version of a historical style from the foundations out: boned undergarment, petticoat and skirt supports, dress, accessories, hat. Last year the theme was 1780s, this year the students are doing 1570s Elizabethan. I chose to make the 1760s stays the students make some years, as they have elements common to a lot of the different eras of boned bodices. Since we’re teaching costuming for stage & film, not historical costuming, they are machine sewn and use …

Sewing & Sustainability & some shorts

Remember my Pants on Fire shorts? (I hope you do, because I love the photos, and the story of how they got their name is pretty hilarious). I made them to take with me to a visit to my parents on their farm in Hawai’i back in 2016. They were great, but the farm is hard on clothes, and they got thrashed. Something got on the fabric, or there was something about the fabric, that got this weird bleaching everywhere. Plus there were farm stains. I would have just left them on the farm, to wear the next time I went home to Hawai’i, but I brought them back to Wellington, because I’d made them so quickly I just drew the pattern straight on the fabric, and forgot to keep a copy. So I took them apart back in Wellington, took patterns off of them, and then I sewed them back up. I even took the time to add a zip facing, which I hadn’t originally included, and that meant I had to lengthen the …

A dress made from a 1919 pattern, thedreamstress.com

A 1918-1919 Day Dress: or ‘The Dreamstress Makes Yet Another Blue Dress’

Colour-wise, I may be most famous for my love of yellow, but if you actually look at my sewing, blue is by far the most common colour in my historical and modern sewing wardrobe (unless you count historical undergarments, in which case white is winning!). One of my historical wardrobe sewing goals is to make more things that are not in blue, white, & black. I’ve got the most stunning persimmon orange silk taffeta calling my name, and a deep purple, and a vivid golden yellow PHd, and I’d really, really like to find an excuse to make something green, because it’s a colour I adore, and yet somehow I never end up sewing with it! So far I am totally failing at diversifying my colour palette, because my first make of 2019 is…darkest blue, so dark it reads black in photos. (faceplosh) In my semi-defence, this dress was intended as a wearable toile, because I really wasn’t sure the pattern would work, and I was specifically looking for a fabric in my stash that …