All posts filed under: Textiles & Costume

The right fabric for the right project

There has been a bit of a debate on the sewing-focused internet world lately regarding what those who sew and create should call themselves.  Are we sewers (but it sounds like a waste disposal network!)?  Are we seamstresses (so confining, old fashioned, and gendered)?  Are we sewists (but it’s a made up word – gasp, shock, horror!)? I’m actually OK with all of them.  I tend to use seamstress because, well, I’m an old-fashioned girl. Really though, they are all slight misnomers, because the things that make the biggest difference in the final result of your project often aren’t the seams themselves: they are fabric choice, cutting, and pressing. Pressing is so, so important – I’ll talk more about it later (the most accomplished draper/dressmaker/seamstress/costumier/pattern cutter, whatever you want to call her that I have ever worked with used to say “Never trust a seamstress who doesn’t use her iron more than her sewing machine”), but today I want to talk about fabric choice. Fabric choice can make or break a project.  A really, really, …

Tutorial: How to unpick and wash a vintage kimono

I love re-using vintage kimono silk for new garments.  I’ve used it for the Vionnet dress, my Deco Echo top, the jacket and over-skirt of my Japonisme dress, the Carte Blanche gown, the lining of my 1770s Lady Anne Darcy dress, my (as yet unfinished) 1770s jacket, the sash of my chemise a la reine, and a few other garments.  Yep.  I really love re-using kimono silk! Here is how to unpick and prep a silk kimono for re-use. This time I’m working with a silk crepe under-kimono.  You can tell it is meant to be worn as an under-layer because of the white collar cover.  It is unlined, and calf length, but the process for pulling it apart is the same as for any kimono. First, some basic things about kimono. Kimono fabric is a special fabric woven to a narrow width, between 13.5″ & 16″.  Kimono are constructed entirely of rectangular shapes, mainly in full widths of the fabric.  In places where the kimono uses narrower widths, the extra fabric is just folded …

Early 1950s fashions and fabrics in Japan, Part 4 of 5

I’ve been having so much fun showing you these images.   I love all your comments about the fashions, and the discussions we have had about Japanese society in the post war era. Ready for some more adorable early 50s fashions for women and children? This section of designs is all on paper that is quite yellowed and acidic with age.  It’s really quite interesting how the paper throughout the booklet is different. First, some kids hats.  I just love that these were necessary enough to be included in the pattern book! And then, some fashions for boys and girls: And back to adult clothes: I really like this artist’s style.  The women are so sweet, and reasonably anatomically probable. This artist also gives a lovely sense of life and action to his sketches: And finally, a few more children’s frocks: Next week Monda I’ll show you the very last one.