All posts filed under: Textiles & Costume

Set Phasers to Stunning

Captain’s Log, stardate 53959.1 At long last Ensign Paris has put the finishing touches on his latest holo-program: a recreation of a ballroom from Earth’s early 19th century. Tom insists it is perfect in every detail, with no backwards harps, but Harry has told me privately that a number of alterations have been made for the comfort and convenience of the crew. I don’t think the crew cares if it is accurate or not. After weeks of hard work they are all looking forward to the gala launch tonight. It should be quite an event: Neelix has been researching food for an old Earth menu for days. With Chakotay and Harry on an away mission in search of dilithium, Tuvok has kindly agreed to captain the bridge while Lieutenant Torres, the Doctor, and I attend. Even Seven of Nine has expressed interest after the Doctor pointed out that a ball is the perfect place to observe human interactions and courtship rituals. I’m slightly nervous about leaving Tuvok alone on the bridge. Long range scans have …

The Quest for Regency Uplift: 1790s Achievement Unlocked

Published by The Dreamstress

One of my goals for 2018 was to make two pairs of Regency stays that worked on me: one for the 1790s, and one for the 1810s. I did not achieve this goal. I made The J.S Berhnhardt 1810s Stays, View C (and took them in and altered them so they have a better, if not great, fit), and another pair that I was equally unenthused about, but my year got rather taken over by settling in to teaching at Toi Whakaari, so personal sewing took a back seat. I’m determined to get back on track with this goal in 2019, and so far I’m halfway there: I have 1790s jumps that are super comfortable, give me lots of support, and actually create lift! I used the 1790s jumps pattern given on pages 102-107 in Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques. The pattern as given in the book fits about a 40″ bust (and bigger if you want space in your front lacing) I drew it out and graded it up and down last year …

1760s stays with theatrical construction thedreamstress.com

Stay with me (for over a year, because that’s how long these 1760’s stays took to finish)

Published by The Dreamstress

When I started teaching costume construction at Toi Whakaari: the New Zealand Drama School last year, I decided I should do some of the projects that the costuming students do as part of their coursework, so I knew how the garments were taught and constructed in the course. It was also a good way to familiarise myself with ‘my’ industrial machine. Every costume shop has its own ‘house rules’, and, while there are general method groupings, there are literally an infinite number of ways to make any specific costume item. Every year the first year costumers build a theatrical version of a historical style from the foundations out: boned undergarment, petticoat and skirt supports, dress, accessories, hat. Last year the theme was 1780s, this year the students are doing 1570s Elizabethan. I chose to make the 1760s stays the students make some years, as they have elements common to a lot of the different eras of boned bodices. Since we’re teaching costuming for stage & film, not historical costuming, they are machine sewn and use …