One of my goals for 2018 was to make two pairs of Regency stays that worked on me: one for the 1790s, and one for the 1810s.
I did not achieve this goal.
I made The J.S Berhnhardt 1810s Stays, View C (and took them in and altered them so they have a better, if not great, fit), and another pair that I was equally unenthused about, but my year got rather taken over by settling in to teaching at Toi Whakaari, so personal sewing took a back seat.
I’m determined to get back on track with this goal in 2019, and so far I’m halfway there:
I have 1790s jumps that are super comfortable, give me lots of support, and actually create lift!
I used the 1790s jumps pattern given on pages 102-107 in Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques.
The pattern as given in the book fits about a 40″ bust (and bigger if you want space in your front lacing)
I drew it out and graded it up and down last year for members of the Wellington historical sewers who owned the book, but weren’t the size given in the pattern. They have been sewing their own versions, so I’ve now seen it on a 46″ D cup, a 34″ DD, a 40 F cup, and a 38″ A cup – and it has worked pretty well on all of those.
So I had high hopes for my version, and so far I’m not disappointed. There is actual lift!
And they are comfortable!
I’ve yet to wear them under a dress, or for a really extended period of time, so that will be the final proof of success. But for now, I’m pretty delighted!
I generally used the construction methods given by Salen, although I’m not entirely convinced that they are how the originals were really put together. It works well enough though.
My jumps are made from a midweight linen-cotton blend. They are entirely hand-sewn, and have German plastic whalebone boning.
The overwhelming consensus from the Wellington sewers has been that you don’t want the back bones: even in the lightest fabric you might use, they aren’t needed, and they are just uncomfortable. Although I don’t plan to put them in, I sewed in my back boning channels, to hold the layers of fabric together, and just in case.
Those who made the jumps in heavier fabric found they didn’t need bones at all, but I find them really helpful in my lighter linen.
I have sewed my boning channels in a running backstitch, and may need to reinforce them with a full backstitch in the future.
Even though this wasn’t a big or hard project, I’m counting it for the Historical Sew Monthly 2019 April challenge: Upping Your Game.
These are the culmination of a lot of practice and trial, and help me to fulfil a long held goal: that’s definitely upping my game. And they will up my Regency costuming game for sure! As well, I managed to make them during an incredibly difficult period, and I’m extremely proud of myself for that: sometimes your personal game level is much lower than usual, and you have to work with where you are.
And finally, the jumps literally ‘up’ me.
What the item is: 1790s jumps
Material: two layers of midweight cotton-linen
Pattern: 1790s jumps pattern given on pages 102-107 in Salen’s Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques.
Notions: synthetic whalebone, cotton thread, cotton lacing cord
How historically accurate is it? I followed the instructions in Salen’s Corsets exactly, but am not sure I 100% trust that they are accurate.
Hours to complete: 12 or so
First worn: For photos on June 8th
Total cost: $5 or so — the fabric was a piece I picked up for very little at an op shops, the only real expense was a bit of boning.