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Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com

Planting Trees (and shrubs and other natives)

I took a break from teaching and sewing and breaking my brain over the stays pattern to plant some trees today.

Tree planting has been on my to-do list all winter. It’s a way to be literally hands-on helping the environment.

Tree planting in NZ is a winter event: you want to get them in the ground while there is plenty of water, and take advantage of the spring growth spurt to get them rooted in before the dry summer.

I missed the early winter events because of colds, but got in for the last of the planting today. There weren’t as many planting events as I’d hoped in Wellington (I feel like we should be desperately planting trees in every possible space…maybe next year), but I found Conservation Volunteers New Zealand, and signed up for a planting.

Sixty willing volunteers showed up bright and early this morning at Tawatawa Reserve in Owhiro/Island Bay, bundled up in layers of wool and waterproof jackets, feet encased in proper shoes, and spades in hand.

We came from all walks of life: there were lonely solos like me, and couples doing it as a weekend activity, families with kids, church groups and school groups, people from Extinction Rebellion, and retirees who do this as a hobby (and had done it almost 40 times this winter alone!). All come together to create a bit of beauty and hope in an increasingly scary world.

After getting our initial briefing, we trotted into the reserve, uphill and down, until we arrived at our object: 1,000 natives, ngaio and wharariki, hebe and mānuka (possibly kānuka, but I’m pretty sure it was mānuka), karamu, tororaro and others, all ready for us to plant:

Trees waiting to be planted, thedreamstress.com

We had a mihi (introduction) and karakia (prayer), and then picked up as many plants as we could carry, and walked on to our planting site: a steep slope looking out over the island that gives Island Bay its name:

Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com

I was slightly worried about how chillblained my hands were going to get, as we’re having one of the coldest snaps of winter, but blissfully, CV provided wonderfully warm gloves. (If you wear gloves and your me-made pants are silk and wool (even if they look like sweatpants) it qualifies as a Costumers for Climate Action event. Maybe next year I’ll come in medieval gear and put them to the test as working clothes ;-))

Despite the cold, you stay quite warm scrambling around on a rough hillside, digging holes and planting trees!

Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com
Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com
Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com

Not just trees though: we planted a wide variety of natives, to create a diverse forest that would support a host of birds and enhance the overall biodiversity of the area. The photos show me planting a wharariki, a mountain flax, which has flowers that a number of birds love.

I carried over 50 plants up the hill to the steepest spot (they asked who was a bit of a mountain goat and I thought, yep, that’s me), planted 33 plants, and helped secure as many poorly-planted ones again. A days work well done! And a wonderful feeling, helping out, and watching a community come together.

It was amazing to stop on my trips up and down the hill, to watch the buzz of activity: everyone intent on their own small bit.

Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com

This was my last tree of the day: a lovely ngaio (very fitting for me!) that I carefully tucked in behind an established bush, to give it shelter from the wind while it gets its start in life.

Tree planting at Island Bay, thedreamstress.com

And at the end of the day, as I was quality checking the planting, and securing in any that were a bit loose, a juvenile tūī showed up to check out the forest we were creating for his great-grandchicks, and tried out his song, in anticipation of the day when these hills will be full of it.

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

Rate the Dress: Blue Flowers & Big Skirts

Your opinion on last week’s dress very much depended on whether it was seen from the front of the back. This week I present another dress that is quite different depending on the angle you see it from. How will it fare in comparison to last week’s pick?

Last Week: a summer 1940 evening dress by Schiaparelli

The verdict on last week’s dress was pretty clear for most of you: fabulous back, boring front. A few people disagreed, and thought the dress would have been overdone with a more elaborate front, and was perfection as it was.

And a couple of you went looking and found the matching jacket that could be worn over the dress. I’d deliberately left it off, because the dress was clearly designed to be worn with or without the jacket, and I thought it would be interesting to see your reaction to Schiaparelli’s cutting, without the more obvious flourishes of the jacket.

The Total: 7.5 out of 10

A slight improvement on last week, but still rather disappointing.

This week: an early 1860s dress in blue floral silk

I’ve passed this dress by as a Rate the Dress option for months, because it looked too simple: very basic 1860s shape, with only interest coming from the double-floral overprinted fabric, in the extremely fashionable blue and black combination of the early 1860s.

But then I looked closer, and saw the trim on the sleeves:

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

And the back view:

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

The dress is a classic transition between the slightly smaller skirts and more restrained trim of the late 1850s, and the large ellipse hoops and bold trim of the mid 1860s.

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

It’s even possible that the sleeve and back trim, and the sash pieces, with their elaborate passementerie trim, now faded from black to dark brown, were added to the dress a few years after it was made, to update the style to the current trends.

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

The collection record shows the dress is in three parts, which may mean that the sash pieces are fully separate.

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

The bodice fit of the dress on the mannequin is, admittedly, not ideal, but an exhibition photo shows a better bodice fit (and a significantly inferior hoop fit, but you can’t have everything…):

Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c
Dress, ca. 1863, French, silk, Purchase, Judith and Ira Sommer Gift, 1999, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1999.123a—c

What do you think?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)

1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com

When borrowing your sister’s clothes gets fun

Costume College was wonderful, but the absolute highlight of my trip to the US was visiting my sister in Santa Barbara.

It’s been a long time since I’ve seen her, but she’s definitely my sister: we immediately had a gazillion things to talk about and show each other, and finding fun things to do together was effortless: I wish I’d had five times as much time to be there.

We walked along the boardwalk and beaches, and saw dolphins along the coast. We went to cool coffee (and tea) shops and tried amazing restaurants. She showed me her favourite secret gardens, where we ate grapes and figs and blackberries, and her favourite parks, where I got excited about squirrels (you’ll understand if you’re from NZ or Hawai’i) and butterflies and plants.

We identified flowers in her wildflower garden, and I made friends with her cats. We went op-shopping and vintage shopping (my bank account and luggage allowance are grateful I didn’t buy that 1940s silk damask, but my heart is still sad…). We discovered that we’re still as excited about the same clothes as we were when we were teenagers – although we’re much more amicable about borrowing from each other’s closet now!

Along the lines of closet borrowing, we played dress up. We’ve been doing it since we were kids: she’s the very first person who put me in a costume. This time we got to trade dress ups: she wore my 1790s red-spencer outfit, and I wore a vintage dress from her collection.

Since she has short purple hair, we needed to cover it with something a little more substantial than my Janeway tiara. So she made use of her fabric stash and the ostrich feather I wore for the Saturday Night Gala, and whipped up a turban.

We went up to the Santa Barbara Mission, and had an absolutely wonderful time, and took far too many gorgeous photos. Here are some of my favourites:

1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
Vintage dress ups at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com
1790s costume at the Santa Barbara Missson, thedreamstress.com