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Rate the Dress: Sunny 1780s Redingote

I’m deep, deep in 1780s stay madness at the moment, so it’s probably not a huge surprise that I’ve picked something on-theme. And I’m always in favour of yellow, so yellow it is.

Last week: a red velvet Edwardian frock with a hint of pinaforeness  

After the silence of the week before, there were so many comments on the pinafore dress. I must admit, I was quite surprised at how popular it was. I guess the pinafore look is in historically as well!

The Total: 8.7 out of 10

And many, many thanks to Cynthia Amneus of the Cincinnati Art Museum, who weighed in with additional information on the dress in the comments.

This week:  a yellow silk 1780s redingote

This 1780s redingote is a wonderful example of the variation in garments seen in the last quarter of the 18th century.

Redingote, 1785-95, silk, Musee Galliera

It features a fitted bodice, front fastening, with slim, curved 3/4 sleeves, a wide double collar with decorative reverse-scalloped edging, and a cutaway front (the so-called zone-front). The photographs are not clear enough to see if the back bodice is cut in one with the skirt, or separate. Either is possible, but the latter is more likely. There is some sort of fringed decoration at the bottom of the bodice front – possibly a type of fly fringing.

Redingote, 1785-95, silk, Musee Galliera

The flat, single-colour fabric is a definite departure from the brocaded floral silks popular in earlier decades, and anticipates the lighter fabrics of the centuries end. The overall effect, with pastel hue and trained skirt, is decidedly of a garment for someone who wasn’t worried about stains.

What do you think?

(I have restrained myself mightily and am not availing myself of all the puns that ‘redingote’ so readily suggests (well, mostly).

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)

1910s evening gowns thedreamstress.com

Wakefield St & the Basin Reserve (or, #2 in a series on Wellington places named in honour of problematic white dudes)

Continuing on with my series of Wellington places named after people with extremely…complicated…histories and legacies, today I’m going to talk about William Wakefield, city founder, coloniser*, kidnapper and someone who was totally willing to be a rape accomplice, and his brother Edward, also hugely influential in founding Wellington, even more of a coloniser, even more of a kidnapper, and probably a rapist.

The Wakefields in Wellington

Unlike the Sir Truby King Gardens, which are quite hidden and which took my years to discover (and some Wellingtonians never do), it’s hard to miss to miss the Wellington places named after William Wakefield and Edward Gibbon Wakefield.

Wakefield Street is a main thoroughfare running through the city. If you’re travelling from the airport to the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa, the train station, parliament, or anything government based, you’re almost certainly going to go along Wakefield St.

And if you go the other route to get through Wellington, you’ll pass through the Mt Victoria Tunnel**, and come out facing the Basin Reserve, and the Wakefield Memorial.

1910s evening gowns thedreamstress.com

The Basin Reserve

The Basin Reserve is a circular park/sporting ground at the joining point of the city, and three main inner-city suburbs.*** It’s New Zealand’s oldest test cricket ground, and is a the only cricket ground in the country to have Historic Places Status.

A 1920s inspired cardigan thedreamstress.com

The Basin Reserve features a cricket lawn in the centre, surrounded by a running track, with seating pavilions on one side, and deep grassed steps and small hills on the other, where people sit and picnic while watching cricket.

A 1920s inspired cardigan thedreamstress.com

At the top of the steps is the Wakefield Memorial, a small neoclassically inspired mid-19th century gazabo/pavillion-y thing. It’s a a Category I heritage structure on the New Zealand Historic Places Register.

(and, obviously, a reasonable photo backdrop)

1910s evening gowns thedreamstress.com

Edward Gibbons Wakefield & William Wakefield

So who were the Wakefield brothers, and why were they important enough to have a street with their name, and a memorial dedicated to one of them?

They brothers are famous/important in New Zealand history because Edward Gibbon Wakefield created the New Zealand Company, which ‘founded’ Wellington, and whose mission was to systematically colonise New Zealand. The company operated on the idea:

“Possess yourself of the Soil and you are Secure.”

And they were willing to use any means necessary to possess the soil, including “trickery”, “lies”, fraud, fraud, and more fraud. The quote and the way he achieved it pretty much sums up Edward’s whole personality.

Edward founded the NZC because he wanted to be rich, powerful, influential, and, most importantly, rich.†

But, since he didn’t feel like giving up the comforts of life in England for the wilds of NZ, and because he was aware that his talents lay in self promotion and grandiose schemes, not in actually leading or bringing those schemes to fruition, he sent his brother William to be feet on the ground actually leading the colonists in New Zealand – and because of this William was one of the primary city founders of Wellington.

William must have been a remarkably devoted younger brother to fall in with Edwards plans for the New Zealand Company, seeing as the last time he did that, he ended up with a criminal conviction and three-year jail term.

Those bad, bad (actually terrible) Wakefield Boys & the Shrigley Abduction

Which brings us to why the Wakefields are so problematic.

Remember how Edward’s primary goal was to be really, really rich? Well, in grand Regency un-romance tradition, as a man from a reasonable family with little money, he decided to achieve this by marrying a rich heiress.

The first time he tried it, in 1816, he basically borrowed a plot straight out of Austen. He romanced a young, impressionable girl who was momentarily out from under her family’s watchful eye, and ran off with her to Scotland.

To avoid a scandal, her family recognised the marriage and settled some money on her. So the 20 year old Wakefield and the 17 year old former Miss Eliza Pattle settled down to live off her whopping (in today’s money) 7 million pound inheritance.

Unfortunately Wakefield wanted more money, and Eliza died after the birth of their second child, and before she could live long enough to inherit even more money.

So, in 1826 the the now 30 year old Edward Wakefield decided that what worked once, would work again. But this time he’d make it even more efficient, and skip the ‘romancing the girl’ part.

Yep. With William’s help he straight-up kidnapped a 15 year old from her boarding school, lied to her repeatedly to get her to agree to marry him (which she did because they told her it would save her father from debtors prison), took her to Scotland to get married, and then to France where he thought her family wouldn’t be able to rescue her.

However, he mis-judged Ellen Turner’s family, Ellen herself, and the public response to his actions.

While Miss Pattle’s family probably knew Wakefield was a scoundrel and a fraud who was more in love with her money than their daughter, they recognised that Eliza was infatuated with Edward, and had gone to Gretna Green and married him entirely voluntarily. To the public, it looked like a love match.

Ellen Turner, on the other hand, had never met Wakefield before his servant took her from school under false pretences. She agreed to marry him only under duress.

Turner’s family, not surprisingly, were incredibly worried for their daughter, and correctly surmised that public opinion would be in their favour, and that Ellen’s reputation would not be ruined. They got the British and French governments to return Ellen to England (despite Edwards claim that as his spouse she couldn’t be taken from him), and Edward, William, and their mother were all charged with a variety of crimes related to the abduction.

Both brothers spent time in jail, but were able to rejoin society and gain influential positions shortly after their release, because early 19th century England sucked.

As for Ellen, well, Ellen, both Wakefields, and everyone else involved insisted the marriage was never consummated (a story, that, while hopefully true, also protected Ellen’s reputation, and lessened the Wakefield’s sentences, so…). The ‘marriage’ was annulled by an Act of Parliament. She went on to marry a wealthy neighbour two years after her abduction, and died in childbirth at 19. Life before modern medical care sucked.

Why the Wakefield’s are actually even worse

Being all the worst kinds of coloniser isn’t as uncommon or instantly shocking as a Regency era kidnapping and forced marriage, but, in a wider sense, it’s far more terrible.

The New Zealand Company really, really was the worst kind of coloniser. They wanted to govern New Zealand, they wanted to make lots of money, and they didn’t care who they trampled on, what land they stole, and whose lives they ruined to do that.

When the list of people in their own time who thought the Company was awful, racist, dishonest, and run by megalomaniacs includes the British Colonial Office; subsequent New Zealand Governors; the Church Missionary Society; and Britain’s Colonial Secretary, the chances that you’re going to look good in the 21st century are, to put it mildly, slight.

So why does Wellington still have stuff named after William and a memorial?

Well, it’s slightly heartening to learn that while the memorial was commissioned and paid for shortly after William’s death in 1848 by friends of his (who were also NZ Company men), by the time it was actually delivered to Wellington, the NZ Company was so out of favour that the memorial sat in a storage yard until the late 1870s, when a private businessman put up money to have it installed. The city chose the current site, and it went up in 1882. It was moved outside the grounds in 1917, and gradually fell into disrepair.

Interestingly, in 2004 the Wellington City Council chose to restore the memorial, and re-instate it at its current site.

To their credit, the plaque for the memorial does explicitly mention the abduction and William’s jail time, though it’s still a little vague, and doesn’t discuss the NZ Company’s shady reputation.††

I’m, personally, OK with the memorial existing and being maintained, not as a monument to the Wakefields, but of a reminder of how complicated history can be, and how things we benefit from came out of awful stuff. The memorial and the plaque led me to research the Wakefields. As it is at the moment it’s presented as part of Wellington’s history, rather than as a honour. I’m not a fan of pretending crappy things in the past didn’t exist: just of making sure that we actually address them, and the memorial is doing an OK job of that.

However, maybe those street names should go? They aren’t really helping to educated anyone as to the darker side of the Wakefields. But when the idea of re-naming things named after the Wakefield’s was recently brought up to Wellington City Councillors they dismissed it as “ridiculous”. Ouch.

Personally, while something relevant to the local iwi would be most fitting, I think Ellen would be a great street name, and has a nice irony and symmetry to it. Replace their name with one to honour all those they abused, and who they wouldn’t have gotten where they were without?

1910s fashions thedreamstress.com

Footnotes

* Which is, obviously, problematic in its own right.

** Named after exactly who you’d expect. I guess she’s problematic too, but it would be exceptionally hard not to be, given her position and time in history.

*** And, incidentally, the largest roundabout in the Southern Hemisphere, and may have been featured in the 2014 Roundabouts of the World calendar by the United Kingdom Roundabout Appreciation Society.

† No, I didn’t accidentally write ‘rich’ twice.

†† It’s also a very small plaque.

Scroop Patterns + Virgil’s Fine Goods Call for Testers

Amber and I want to make sure that our first pattern is as fabulous as possible, so we need testers to help us with that!

We’ve already asked a number of testers with specialised skills, so we’re only looking for a few extra testers, but if you’d like to be one of them, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

1780s stays which can be made using fully historically accurate techniques, or simpler theatrical techniques. They feature synthetic whalebone (German Plastic) boning, back lacing, and adjustable half-front lacing or a smooth front.

Testers:

This is an advanced pattern, and we’re looking for testers with prior historical sewing and corsetmaking experience.

To be a tester you will also need to:

  • be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • have the time to sew up the item if you agree to be a tester for it – you’ll have one month to completely finish it.
  •  be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • be able to provide clear feedback
  • be willing to agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern
  • have a blog or other format where you share and analyse your sewing

We would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  We’re asking for TESTERS, not marketers.  The requirement of a blog/other review format is to help me pick testers.   I want to be able to see how you think about sewing, and that your experience level matches up to the pattern.

As always we’re looking for a range of testers, in terms of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test we’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by  12 noon NZ time on Wednesday the 5th of June  (Thur the 6th for most of the rest of the world).

Patterns:

We will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 2pm NZ time on Wed the 12th of June.

Testing & Reviewing:

As this is a pretty time intensive pattern, testing will go for a month, with a check in halfway through.

Testers will have until 2pm NZ time on Wed the 26th of June to do a mock up of the stays, or get them to try-on stage, and respond to the initial set of testing questions.

We’ll need testers to be finished with their stays by Wed the 10th of July.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and our IGs.

Keen to be a tester for the stays pattern? please email me with the following:

  1. Your name
  2. Your bust, waist & hip measures
  3. Your height
  4. A bit about how squishy vs muscular/not your waist is, or how much reduction you generally aim for in a corset.
  5. A bit about your sewing experience — particularly for corsets and historical garments.
  6. A link to your blog/Instagram/Flickr/Sewing Pattern Review profile/something else sewing-y presence
  7. A link to a historical or corset/stays sewing make with a review (so we can see how you think about and analyse your sewing)
  8. Where you are located (country is fine, country/ state or region for larger countries is preferred)  
  9. Do you have any other skills that would really make you an extra-super-awesome pattern tester?  (i.e. experience copy-editing)

Email me to be a tester!

Hope to hear from you!