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Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920's. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

Rate the Dress: 20s velvet

Sorry all, jet-lag has done a number on me this week, and I’m very behind with Rate the Dress. So this week’s Rate the Dress will be a quickie: you’ll only have until the usual day to leave a comment. Hopefully you’re able to make up your mind quickly!

Last [last] Week:  a late 1770s dress with fascinating fabrications

Last week’s Rate the Dress was another one of those ones where people either really liked it, or really didn’t. The lovers thought it beautiful and unusual, and the loathers thought it overly fussy, with dull colours.

The Total: 8 out of 10

Nice but not amazing

This week:  a 1920s dress in complementary velvet hues

Today’s Rate the Dress is less ornamented than last week’s, but while this 1920s robe de style does have a simple silhouette, it’s not devoid of decoration, with a braided sash and beaded hem.

Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920’s. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

Robe de styles were the alternative to the very straight, sleek 20s silhouette, with fuller skirts, and a softer, more romantic style. At their most most extreme, robe de style had very full skirts, with extra fabric at the sides so they could be worn over 18th century inspired paniers. They were frequently quite ruffly and pastel-y.

Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920's. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions
Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920’s. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

Like many dress styles, there is no firm line between what was a robe de style, and what was a standard 20s dress. This example, with its moderately full skirt, simple neckline, and vivid, modern colours, straddles the line. Only the full skirt pushes it into robe de style territory.

Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920’s. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

One can imagine a dress like this being worn by a woman who liked the shapes of robe de styles, but the more assertive colours and trims used.

Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920's. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions
Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920’s. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

There is something quite artistic about the use of the complementary hues, and while the shape is simple, and the braided sash looks quite easy to do, the rather unexpectedly delicate beading around the hem speaks of the time, expense, and quality of the dressmaking.

Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920's. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions
Robe de Style, Sadie Nemser, 1920’s. Tangerine silk velvet, beaded hem, Whitaker Auctions

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Costume College 2019: Friday

I know that the Rate the Dress post is very overdue, but I also think that three Rate the Dress posts in a row is rather repetitive! So RTD is on hold for the week so you can enjoy some other content, like Costume College 2019!

I had a lovely time at Costume College, but I’m also totally at peace with my decision not to go again. It’s no longer an event that’s focused on my interests, and I’d rather save my energy for local events, and conserving the environment.

The best part, as always, was definitely seeing old friends, and making new ones.

Here are some photos from the Friday Night Event. So many amazing outfits!

I apologise that I haven’t tagged everyone: if you know someone’s blog or handle that I’ve missed, please let me know in the comments. And if I got a photo of you you’d like, if you leave a comment asking for it I’ll be able to see your email (no one else will) and can send it to you.

Love this mid teens frock! So charming:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And handkerchief hems and amazing stripe matching.

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Jessica’s 1860s dress makes me so happy, and even more so when it’s paired with Sewing Through the Centuries’ equally fabulously pattern-matched Edwardian skirt:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Georgian gorgeousness in the haberdashery stand:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And Angela of Burnley & Trowbridge looking perfectly put-together amongst Redthreaded’s corsets:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com
Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

1830s amazing ridiculousness:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And nice to see some WWI history represented on Constance. Her apron was starched within an inch of its life!

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Madness at the American Duchess book signing table:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Bustle era Snow White!

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And possibly my favourite photo of the night: Christine of @SewStine in her phenomenal embroidered 1900s skirt and Costumers for Climate Action sash reacting to seeing Amber of @VirgilsFineGoods chine francaise

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Speaking of…

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com
Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And having excited 18th century conversations with Nicole of @Silk_And_Buckram.

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Amber and Cait of @WilloughbyandRose were my roommates and were the best possible late-night-chatters and getting-dressed helpers a costumer could want. They made the weekend so much fun!

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com
Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com
Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

I didn’t need any help Friday night though, because I went for 30s inspired faux jumpsuit made from Eastbourne Trousers and a hacked Henrietta Maria top.

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Being comfy, having enormous pockets and representing my own pattern line? Couldn’t get any better!

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

I did enjoy the more elaborate costumes, like these phenomenal jointed wings:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And Kelsey’s EVA & Worbla fabulosity:

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

And Kenna of @houkakyou in more amazing 1830s (and amazing sense of humour!). I highly recommend her IG: she took my favourite photo of me from the weekend.

Costume College 2019 thedreamstress.com

Rate the Dress: 18th century fabric manipulation

Between the start of the new term at Toi Whakaari, personal life, and prepping for Costume College, I’ve been so busy that I haven’t managed to write a single blog post between Rate the Dresses. So we’re going straight from one frothy pink and green concoction, to another frothy pink and green concoction. Will this week’s prove as popular as lasts? Let’s find out!

Last Week: an 1870s day dress in summer florals

Last week’s Rate the Dress reactions caught me by surprised. I suspected a lot of people would like it, but not quite so much, and not quite so many of you! I thought it must have been a bit too saccharine for at least some of you, but nope! Love was in the air…

Even the one person who didn’t like it was too polite to put their rating, and ruin all the others!

The Total: 9.5 out of 10

These days that’s a practically perfect score.

This week: a late 1770s dress with fascinating fabrications

Today’s pick is a late 1770s dress with all them trimmings – which may explain why it’s so perfectly preserved and un-altered.

Dress, 1778—80, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.60.40.3

The Met states that this dress is so small that it must have been worn by a girl of no more than 14, but I’m very suspicious of that statement. Absolutely the dress may be tiny, but I also know extremely petite women in their 20s, 30s and 40s (etc. etc.) who are significantly smaller than the average 14 year old. Absent any information that points to the design of this dress being suitable only for a young teenager, all we know is that it was worn by someone very small.

Dress, 1778—80, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.60.40.3
  • https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/86882

The dress is lavishly decorated with fascinating ruching, fly fringing, braid, pleating, and ruffles.

Dress, 1778—80, French, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art, C.I.60.40.3

The decorations extends across the bodice front and back, and down the sleeves. There is more trim on the skirts front and back, for texture from every angle.

What do you think? Do you like the rococo froth as much as last week’s rococo revival froth?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)