Latest Posts

Scroop Patterns + Virgil’s Fine Goods Call for Testers

Amber and I want to make sure that our first pattern is as fabulous as possible, so we need testers to help us with that!

We’ve already asked a number of testers with specialised skills, so we’re only looking for a few extra testers, but if you’d like to be one of them, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

1780s stays which can be made using fully historically accurate techniques, or simpler theatrical techniques. They feature synthetic whalebone (German Plastic) boning, back lacing, and adjustable half-front lacing or a smooth front.

Testers:

This is an advanced pattern, and we’re looking for testers with prior historical sewing and corsetmaking experience.

To be a tester you will also need to:

  • be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • have the time to sew up the item if you agree to be a tester for it – you’ll have one month to completely finish it.
  •  be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • be able to provide clear feedback
  • be willing to agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern
  • have a blog or other format where you share and analyse your sewing

We would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  We’re asking for TESTERS, not marketers.  The requirement of a blog/other review format is to help me pick testers.   I want to be able to see how you think about sewing, and that your experience level matches up to the pattern.

As always we’re looking for a range of testers, in terms of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

The Timeline:

Materials:

If you’re selected to test we’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by  12 noon NZ time on Wednesday the 5th of June  (Thur the 6th for most of the rest of the world).

Patterns:

We will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 2pm NZ time on Wed the 12th of June.

Testing & Reviewing:

As this is a pretty time intensive pattern, testing will go for a month, with a check in halfway through.

Testers will have until 2pm NZ time on Wed the 26th of June to do a mock up of the stays, or get them to try-on stage, and respond to the initial set of testing questions.

We’ll need testers to be finished with their stays by Wed the 10th of July.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and our IGs.

Keen to be a tester for the stays pattern? please email me with the following:

  1. Your name
  2. Your bust, waist & hip measures
  3. Your height
  4. A bit about how squishy vs muscular/not your waist is, or how much reduction you generally aim for in a corset.
  5. A bit about your sewing experience — particularly for corsets and historical garments.
  6. A link to your blog/Instagram/Flickr/Sewing Pattern Review profile/something else sewing-y presence
  7. A link to a historical or corset/stays sewing make with a review (so we can see how you think about and analyse your sewing)
  8. Where you are located (country is fine, country/ state or region for larger countries is preferred)  
  9. Do you have any other skills that would really make you an extra-super-awesome pattern tester?  (i.e. experience copy-editing)

Email me to be a tester!

Hope to hear from you!

Scroop Patterns + Virgil’s Fine Goods = 18th century awesomeness

I am so excited to announce that Scroop Patterns is going to be collaborating with Amber of Virgil’s Fine Goods to create historically accurate 18th century (and, if those go well, Regency) patterns!

Amber of Virgil's Fine Goods, photo taken by Carol Kocian while at Colonial Williamsburg’s Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop
Photo by Carol Kocian at Colonial Williamsburg’s Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop

Historically accurate print-at-home PDF 18th century patterns have long been top of my costuming wish-list. Out here in NZ, ordering any of the ones from overseas takes weeks, and is extremely expensive. Even if you’re not so far-flung, PDF patterns means that you can buy, print, and get working on your item all within the same hour. (and yes, we’ll be doing paper patterns too!)

I’ve considered doing 18th century patterns for Scroop Patterns, but I don’t feel I have the depth of experience needed to make really amazing Georgian patterns: there aren’t enough 18th c garments in NZ for me to study, or experts to learn from. And I really wouldn’t want to do them unless I could be sure they were really, really good.

I thought about who did have the experience, and Amber was the obvious choice. She combines mantua-makers training with exquisite fit, beautifully made garments, and, most importantly, exceptional teaching skills.

I have learned so much from her blog and IG and Virgil’s Fine Goods & Lady of the Wilderness Facebook (her videos on draping sleeves for a 1778 Italian gown and then setting the sleeves on yourself were a total revelation – and her Letter to Costuming/Living History Newbies is super helpful).

Amber of Virgil's Fine Goods

So we’re combining Amber’s knowledge, and all the quality you’ve come to expect from Scroop Patterns, to make detailed, historically accurate, size-inclusive 18th century patterns! We think they’re going to be wonderful – and we hope you think so too!

We’re starting with an 1780s stays pattern, so that you have the foundation to build the rest of your wardrobe over. And then we’ve got so many more exciting plans!

Keep a watch out later today for our call for testers!  

Rate the Dress: Edwardian Pinafore

Pinafores and jumpers are all the rage in the sewing and fashion world at the moment, so I thought I’d get on board with the trend in Rate the Dress this week – with a pinafore-esque frock from 1906-7. And no, it’s not for a child!

Last week:  a 1910s suit in purple and black

Either the Rate the Dresses I’m posting aren’t interesting a lot of people, or you are all super busy. Last week’s frock, while not attracting a lot of comments, did attract most who commented. With only two exceptions it got rave reviews: it was just what you all wanted to for a day of tea and shopping in London.

The Total: 9.3 out of 10

Two full points up on the week before!

This week:  a red velvet Edwardian frock with a hint of pinaforeness

While pinafores are all the rage right now, historically we generally think of them as a child’s garment. That certainly wasn’t always the case: pinafore/jumper fronts had their moments in adult clothing as well, particularly in the 1905-17 period, and then again from the mid-1930s into the 1940s.

This week’s Rate the Dress is an early example of the fad, with a two peice dress with pinafore-effect bodice, the whole thing in red velvet and ivory lace.

Afternoon Dress: Bodice and Skirt, Anna Dunlevy (American, active 1889-1913), 1906-1907, Cincinnati/Ohio/United States, silk, cotton, Cincinnati Art Museum, 1954.414a-c

The Cincinnati Art Museum describes the dress as a bodice and skirt, but the catalogue record is for a three-piece ensemble. I suspect the dress is made up of the skirt, the lace under-blouse, and the pinafore portion, which is attached to the belt. I’ve certainly seen patterns from this era for similar ‘jumper-bodices and belt’ get-ups.

Afternoon Dress: Bodice and Skirt, Anna Dunlevy (American, active 1889-1913), 1906-1907, Cincinnati/Ohio/United States, silk, cotton, Cincinnati Art Museum, 1954.414a-c

If that is the case, there might have been the option of wearing the skirt and bodice without the belt and suspender-y, pinafore bit, or switching out the bodice.

What do you think? Does this leave you jumping for joy, sartorially speaking? Or are you suspending disbelief that anyone thought this was a good idea, and bracing yourself for the onslaught of terrible scores?

(I’m sorry. I can’t help myself. I’m tired, and the tireder I am, the worse the puns!

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste. 

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it!  And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10.  Thanks in advance!)