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Rate the Dress: Edwardian Pinafore

Pinafores and jumpers are all the rage in the sewing and fashion world at the moment, so I thought I’d get on board with the trend in Rate the Dress this week – with a pinafore-esque frock from 1906-7. And no, it’s not for a child!

Last week: a 1910s suit in purple and black

Either the Rate the Dresses I’m posting aren’t interesting a lot of people, or you are all super busy. Last week’s frock, while not attracting a lot of comments, did attract most who commented. With only two exceptions it got rave reviews: it was just what you all wanted to for a day of tea and shopping in London.

The Total: 9.3 out of 10

Two full points up on the week before!

This week: a red velvet Edwardian frock with a hint of pinaforeness

While pinafores are all the rage right now, historically we generally think of them as a child’s garment. That certainly wasn’t always the case: pinafore/jumper fronts had their moments in adult clothing as well, particularly in the 1905-17 period, and then again from the mid-1930s into the 1940s.

This week’s Rate the Dress is an early example of the fad, with a two peice dress with pinafore-effect bodice, the whole thing in red velvet and ivory lace.

Afternoon Dress: Bodice and Skirt, Anna Dunlevy (American, active 1889-1913), 1906-1907, Cincinnati/Ohio/United States, silk, cotton, Cincinnati Art Museum, 1954.414a-c

The Cincinnati Art Museum describes the dress as a bodice and skirt, but the catalogue record is for a three-piece ensemble. I suspect the dress is made up of the skirt, the lace under-blouse, and the pinafore portion, which is attached to the belt. I’ve certainly seen patterns from this era for similar ‘jumper-bodices and belt’ get-ups.

If that is the case, there might have been the option of wearing the skirt and bodice without the belt and suspender-y, pinafore bit, or switching out the bodice.

What do you think? Does this leave you jumping for joy, sartorially speaking? Or are you suspending disbelief that anyone thought this was a good idea, and bracing yourself for the onslaught of terrible scores?

(I’m sorry. I can’t help myself. I’m tired, and the tireder I am, the worse the puns!

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it! And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10. Thanks in advance!)

The 1921 Daisies & the Devil's Handiwork dress thedreamstress.com

I’m coming to Costume College! (for the last time)

Published by The Dreamstress

If you’re going to Costume College 2019, and have read your class schedule in detail, you may have realised that I’m teaching (yay!), but also wondered why I haven’t mentioned it publicly, like I have in previous years.

Yes, I’ll be at Costume College, and I’m very excited to see everyone, and to be teaching the following class:

Body Ideals & Corsetry: 1900-1930

11-1 on Friday (not 3-5 as shown in the book)

(and am very sad they didn’t pick the other class I offered them, on the history of the suffrage movement across the world, in all its form, and its complicated relationship with fashion, because that was going to be a great class, but ah well, more time to socialise and go to other people’s awesome classes).

But going this year is also very bittersweet. Unless there is a huge (and completely unexpected and unpredicted) alteration in the global situation, it will be my last Costume College ever.

Shortly after booking my tickets and registering for CoCo I realised how bad the climate crisis is.

Given the severity of the situation, and the threat climate change poses to the continuation of almost all life, I no longer feel I can justify flying for business and pleasure.

Obviously this has not been an easy or enjoyable decision to make. I’m still struggling with the consequences of global warming, and feeling a huge amount of guilt about my trip.

I almost decided to not go at all, but the trip will also allow me to see my sister, who I haven’t see in years – and that’s important.

I’m going to talk more about climate change, and what it means for me as a person, and a costumer, but I’m not quite ready.

For now, I’m focusing on having the most wonderful trip possible. I’ve committed to going, I must make the absolute most of it!

And if you’re going to Costume College, I hope you also have an absolutely wonderful trip. And do come and say hi to me while we’re there.

Rate the Dress: Suited to the Teens

Published by The Dreamstress

Last weeks Rate the Dress was all frothy ballgown, so this week I’m going all serious and businesslike, with a 1910s suit. Of course, while it is a suit, it’s also Edwardian, so there is detail within the detail of the detail of the suit!

Last week: an 1830s evening gown in white with green trims

I honestly thought there would be more comments on last week’s Rate the Dress, because it was such an interesting dress! But perhaps people were having busy weeks. Or perhaps it was just too subtle and not obviously interesting enough…

In any case, some of you thought it absolutely delightful and charming, but alas, some of you thought it drooped, was overly be-bow-ed, and suffered from terminal puffed sleeve-ness.

The Total: 7.3 out of 10

For the record, I loved it. It was pretty much my dream 1830s evening gown (except for maybe not that bow).

This week:

This ca. 1912 suit combines practicality with a dash of flair.

Wool suit with braided trim, ca 1912, Helen Larson Historic Costume Collection, Sold by Whitaker Auctions

The wool broadcloth would keep the wearer warm in a range of weather, and the dark colours would resist soiling and wear on grimy city streets, but the broad silk satin collar and elaborate trimmings speak to a sensibility as focused on aesthetic as on function.

The suit jacket features a wide, square collar in satin and velvet, with braid, button and embroidery trim, a braided belt effect at a fashionably high waist, velvet cuffs, and elaborate braid and button trim across the back.

The jacket is worn over an A-line skirt, with faux wrap effect.

Typically of high end fashion of the era, every element of the design that could be embellished with additional details is, right down to the belt buttons, with dainty floral borders.

What do you think? Is this ensemble suited for purpose, while suiting your sense of style?