Latest Posts

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Rate the Dress: 1880s beads & velvet

Last week:  An 1890s dress with a sexy silhouette and an eye-catching colour.

I try not to influence the rating with my description and analysis of the featured garment, but it’s impossible not to.  Last week’s dress was the perfect example.  I can’t imagine it would have gotten quite so positive a reception had I not waxed poetic about how that style of dress had influenced Hawai’ian fashion.

Even so, it was a divisive dress: some of you loved how modern and unexpected the fabric was, some of you didn’t.  And no one was really a fan of the odd lace and unbalanced velvet, though some felt it was still fabulous enough for a perfect 10.

I did love Natalie’s commentary on the trims: “The saturated purple and the main fabric pattern are yummy, like a ripe plum on the tree, and that pop of green is super. Velvet ribbon trim is oh-so-1890s and early 1900s; fashionable wear used it lavishly and I have some amusing quotes about the proclivity of teen girls to trimming everything with it till they were positively fluttering.”

The Total: 7.6 out of 10

I’ll be honest, that’s better than I thought it would do!

This week: 1880s jewel tones, velvet, and lots of beading

This episode’s choice for Rate the Dress could not be less suitable for Hawai’i if it tried:

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Although, Hawai’i does have tall mountains that get cold, and the Hawai’ian monarchy wore some pretty spectacular 1880s fashions, so perhaps it could work after all…

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

And the triangular repeat of the beading is very reminiscent of the type of patterns seen on kapa and in Hawai’ian woodcarving, although I very much doubt that is what the designer and maker of this garment was using as inspiration!

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

I actually went on the opposite emotional journey with this ensemble that I did with last week’s dress.  When I saw last week’s dress my first thought was ‘urgh!’, but then the unexpected fabric grew on me, and I noticed the subtlety of the torso draping, and I realised how much it was the style of garment that influenced Hawai’ian attire.  In contrast, my initial reaction to this week’s visiting ensemble was delight, but the more I’ve looked at it, the less I like it.  I can’t quite put my finger on why.

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Visiting outfit, ca 1885, silk velvet & silk ottoman, sold by Tessier-Sarrou-et-Associes

Is it too elaborate and decorated and imposing?  Too much a dress to show off in?

Or am I just crazy and is this actually the peak of all that is glorious and beautiful?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding with Son de Flor

If you’ve followed me for a while you know I almost never do collaborations & marketing posts.

I blog because I love sharing about sewing and history and random stuff from my life. I’m here to have fun.  I’ve never monetised the blog, and try to make sure the Scroop-related content is less than 1/4 of my posts.  I want this blog to be a haven from all the ‘buy-buy-buy’ flashing lights and marketing websites on the internet.

So I have to REALLY love an item to agree to a collaboration.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

When Son de Flor approached me about a collaboration I didn’t have to think about it at all.  Their clothes are gorgeous and I’ve coveted them every time I see them. 

I also really like their ethics and their commitment to the environment and slow fashion.

Plus, they contacted me at the perfect time.

I’ve come to realise I want to teach at Toi Whakaari, and make new Scroop Patterns, and sew my whole wardrobe, and renovate my house.

But I can only handle 2.6798 of the 4 while still maintaining any semblance of sanity and a healthy life that also involves socialising and exercise and a decent diet.  So, something’s got to give.  And what can give is making my whole wardrobe – you’d rather I make new patterns than that, right?

So the solution to not making my whole wardrobe is to invest in ethical clothes that will last and last.  Which is exactly what Son de Flor makes. 💛

I adore all their romantic linen frocks and was so tempted by them, but we were heading in to winter here in NZ.  It’s wool weather, not linen weather.  Then I saw this double slit wool dress and it was instant love. 

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

 

I’ve been really into Medieval inspired historybounding lately (in case you hadn’t guessed from my last post!), and this fits perfectly into that aesthetic.  And it looked so warm and cozy…

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

It IS so warm and cozy.  It’s boiled wool knit, and so soft and snug.  We took these photos on a chilly late autumn day with a strong, freezing wind and the occasional drizzle.  And I was delightfully comfortable for the whole shoot.  

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

The tunic arrived at the perfect time too.  Theresa was visiting Wellington, and what do Theresa and I do when she visits?  Have a photoshoot!

I suggested Medieval fantasy, and she was all on board.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.comSo I went foraging around Wellington for autumn leaves (harder than you’d think – our woods are, thankfully, mostly natives, but all NZ native trees are evergreen), and adapted Hawai’ian haku lei making techniques to make up two wreaths using twisted brown paper bags and crochet twine instead of banana bark and raffia.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

The effect was just what I had hoped for, although leaves did keep blowing into our eyes and ruining shots.  I hadn’t anticipated a photoshoot in a gale!

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

Plus, we had the most fun photoshoot prop ever.  I’m the kind of person who knows people who have swords.  I asked if I could borrow one, and the answer I got was “sure, what style are you after?”

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

We settled on a plastic Anduril LotR replica, because it was lightest and cheapest and I was worried about damaging something valuable.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

10/10 for fun photoshoot prop!   I really want my own sword now…

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

About the tunic!

I’m 5’6” and a Scroop Size 40.  I’m wearing it in Size L.  I could have gotten away with M, but I ordered it large because I know I like the oversized look, and preferred that to too snug.  

It’s sold out in this warm brown, but as of this post is still available in poppy, pale grey, and pink (and I want one in every colour!).

It’s 80% wool, 20% poly, and for the first time in my life I look forward to it being really cold, so I can slip this on and feel glamorous and cozy.  It looks great over trousers too!

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

As a fabric and construction snob, I’m super impressed with the quality.  The fabric is very nice, and the finishing details are really well thought-out.  The black edging is a soft jersey binding, so there’s absolutely no chance of the wool rubbing.  The binding even on the slit and hem is such an elegant touch.  Most companies would just go for a coverstitched hem.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

So, highly recommend autumn wreaths, excellent friends, swords as photoshoot props, and Son de Flor’s clothes.  Could definitely see myself in one of those fabulous linen frocks come summer.

Medieval Historybounding thedreamstress.com

If you want to add some beautifully and ethically made Son de Flor items to your own wardrobe  please use my affiliate link – plus enter the code LEIMOMI5 for an extra 5% off that!

And obviously, this is a sponsored post and Son de Flor gave me the tunic in exchange for writing it – but my gushing would be significantly less muted if I didn’t think their products were fantastic!

Scroop Dress Pattern Testing scrooppatterns.com

Call for Pattern Testers for a Medieval Inspired Modern Dress

UPDATE: Applications to test the pattern are now closed

It’s that time again!  I’ve been hard at work on a new pattern for Scroop Patterns based on the dress I have NEVER worn without someone commenting on it and asking where I got it.

While I think the dress is pretty darn perfect, I need to make sure the instructions are just as perfect, and that the pattern is perfect in every size   So, that means I need testers to give their opinion on those things!

If you’d like to apply to help test the dress, keep reading to learn more, and how to apply…

The Pattern:

This dress pattern features an effortless loose shape and elegant geometric patterning inspired by the Medieval garments excavated at Herjolfsnes in Greenland.

The timeless base pattern has been given a modern update with roomy pockets, fully machine sewn construction, ankle of mid-calf hem lengths, a low or high scooped neckline, and straight medieval-inspired sleeves with back seam and inset gusset or lantern sleeves.

Scroop Dress Pattern Testing scrooppatterns.com

The pattern will be available in bust sizes 30”-56” / 76.5-142cm.  The loose fit over the waist and hips means that it will fit pretty much any waist and hip measurement.

It takes me approximately 3.5 hours to make this dress from start (cutting out) to finish (hemming).

The dress takes between 3y/2.8m (60”/152cm wide fabric, smallest sizes) and 5 1/8y /4.7m (45”/112cm wide fabric, largest sizes) of fabric, depending on fabric width and pattern size.

Testers:

For this test I am looking for testers who are low-intermediate or higher level sewists.  Setting in the front and back triangles is slightly tricky and fiddly, but other than that this is an easy make.

To be a tester you will need to:

  • Be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
  • Have the time to sew up the dress. You’ll have two weeks to make the dress, and provide feedback, and a further four days to provide photos.
  • Be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for us to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
  • Be over 18 years old.
  • Provide clear feedback
  • Agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern

I would hugely appreciate it if testers would share their finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory.  I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers.

As always I’m looking for a range of testers. I need a spread of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

Based on previous calls for testers, there will be 30+ applicants in each of the most common size ranges (34-42 bust), so if you aren’t chosen, it’s not that you weren’t fabulous, it’s that there were so many applicants.

Social Media

Having a social media presence helps your chances of being chosen as a tester, but isn’t necessarily a requirement.  I’m significantly more likely to choose testers who have an online social media presence, as that means I can really see and analyse their sewing, and how they think about sewing, when I’m choosing testers. I do occasionally choose testers who don’t have social media, especially if they fill a less common demographic.

The Timeline:

Applications to test the dress are open from now until 10pm Tue 16 Jul, NZ Time (unless I receive so many applications I won’t be able to consider them all properly, in which case I’ll close applications early)  UPDATE: there have been so many applicants I’ll be closing the tester call at 9am on Tue 16 Jul, NZ Time

Materials:

If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by 10pm NZ time on Friday the 19th of July..   This is Thur the 18th for most of the rest of the world.

Patterns:

I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 10pm NZ time on Thursday the 25th of July.

Testing & Reviewing:

Testing will go for two weeks, with a further four days to provide finished photos..

Testers will have until  10pm NZ time on Thurs the 8th of August  to finish their dress and provide feedback.

They will have a further weekend, until 10pm NZ time on Mon the 12th, to provide photos

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, lots of thanks, and features on my blog and IG.

Testing also offers testers an opportunity to get group and 1-1 feedback, assistance, and sewing tutorials.  I’m modelling our testing process after an online class, albeit one you don’t pay for, because you’re letting me beta test the pattern on you.  There’s an online group that testers can join as they wish.  I’ll also be running a couple of live zoom events.  I’m committed to making testing as beneficial to testers as it is to me, and to improve my testing process with every pattern I do.

To Apply to be a Tester

Applications are now closed, sorry!