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1760s Frou Frou Francaise thedreamstress.com

The Frou Frou Francaise – almost there

After many, many bouts of unpicking and re-sewing the 1760s Frou Frou Francaise is almost there.

Maybe.

I’ve unpicked nearly every seam in the dress and re-sewn it at least three times, and I still can’t get it to a place where I’m really happy about it. So I don’t know when I can stop and call it done, because the more work I invest in it, the more I feel I need to get it right, and right now…it isn’t quite there.

The last time you saw it it was worn by a model at Ramsay to Renoir in Nelson. I also blogged about making the sleeves, and how their fit wasn’t quite right.

When I looked at the photos from Ramsay to Renoir the Francaise was pretty, but something about it wasn’t quite right to me.

I looked at it, and looked at it, and couldn’t figure it out. Then I posted this francaise for Rate the Dress, and my mind went ‘ah hah!’

Robe a la Francaise, 18th century (probably 1770s), silk, Lot 550, sold by Whittakers Auctions, Fall 2016

What my Francaise was missing was the floating pleats. It was just too stiff and severe with the pleats tacked down so far.

I went and did a (fairly rough) general survey of sacque gowns for the 1760s, and my hunch was right – assuming that the museums were reasonably accurate with their dating, floating pleats do seem to be much more common than very tacked-down pleats in 1760s francaise. And the look certainly fits my lush, frou-frou theme more than the severity and control of tacked down pleats.

So, I unpicked my sleeves, unpicked my back facing, and unpicked my pleats.

While I was doing my survey I also decided that the width of the pleats was too wide compared to the proportions of my shoulders, so, as long as I had everything undone, I re-did the pleating width.

In other words, I basically went back to the very beginnings of the garment construction, and started again. Eeergh

But, I am definitely happier with the result:

While I was doing this, I also re-did the sleeves. And re-did the sleeves again. And re-did the sleeves again. And unpicked and re-set the bloody things a fourth time.

But… I just can’t get them to where I’m happy with it.

I’m usually really good at sleeves, but there are exceptions to everything, because these ones refuse to sit on me without wrinkling and pulling.

It’s possible that the fabric is just so stiff and unyeilding it will never sit without wrinkling.

It’s like the dress that never ends. Not even the trial photoshoot went right.

I got it all sewed together, and wanted to try it on and do a photoshoot before trimming, so I could really assess the fit before I committed to the last 20 hours of frilling. As I don’t usually have another person with significant fit experience on hand to help with fitting, I find fully putting on something, and taking lots of photos that I can look at, the best way to assess fit.

Well, three images into the trial shoot Mr D managed to switch a setting on the camera, and everything was so under-exposed they were so unusable.

So I got completely dressed up again (and naturally my hair refused to cooperate like it did the first time, and the pearl trim I borrow from a painting just looks dorky in real life. And it was much hotter. And the light wasn’t nearly as good…), and these are the resulting images.

After the first photoshoot I decided the petticoat ruffle was too long, so I unpicked and re-attached it, and I over-compensated, and now it’s too short. Gah!

Other stuff I’m not happy with & need to re-do:

The wrinkling on my bodice. Possibly better stays (I wore my lighter pair due to the heat, but that may have been a poor choice) or better pinning would help. Pinning this fabric is even less fun than sewing it.
The sleeve ruffles. I don’t care for the shape, or my punching pattern. If I have enough leftover fabric at the end I’ll re-do them. Heck, maybe I should try to re-do the entire sleeves. :-/

Things I am happy with:

My lace engageantes. The lace is from silkworld.com.au (they have just started selling retail (and they sell silk tulle!!!!!!)) and it’s SO pretty, and I figured out a really elegant solution to making lace engageantes (which I will be posting about)
My tucker. Lace from my stash, and also so pretty.

So at this point, the Francaise is sort-of back in the naughty pile, because I’m just fed up with it.

I think I’m going to fix the petticoat ruffle (because that definitely needs fixing), and wait for cooler weather, and do another photoshoot, and see how I feel about it then. Maybe if I’m happier with my hair and everything else I’ll like it more…

I’m more than a little annoyed about this, because the Francaise has been going on for so long, and was one of my big sewing goals for 2018, and its…not done.

Once I can get the fit right, I can trim, and it will finally, finally, be finished!

Now that I’ve sewn every seam in it four times by hand…

So there you go. No matter how much you think you know, and even when you’ve done things before and had them be a smashing success (my other francaise fits like a glove!), you can still get stuck on things, and have them not work.

And if you think I’m exaggerating and being over-dramatic about the fitssues, remember that you’re still only showing the photos I could bring myself to post publicly (though I’m far more willing to show less-than-stellar fit than I am derpy expressions!)

Evening Dress, Yteb, silk, sequins & metallic thread, 1926, The Philadelphia Museum of Art

Rate the Dress: pleats, bows & lots of sparkles

Published by The Dreamstress

I started the Rate the Dress party-frock-a-thon with an orange dress, and it felt right to finish it up with the same colour. It’s not usually a favourite colour, but the first one was a smashing success. Can this week’s pick rival it?

Last week: a House of Worth Robe Ã transformation in red velvet

Red velvet was always going to be pretty popular, and the ratings and comments did not disappoint. There was a veritable sea of “ooooh” and swooning (and two outlying ‘nopes’).

There was a bit of a divide in those who preferred the draped bodice, and thought the evening bodice looked like a forced exercise in using the lace, and those who thought the day bodice was unrelieved or contrived, and the evening bodice incredibly clever and spectacular.

I’m one who didn’t love the evening bodice at first glance, but the more I looked at it up close, the more it grew on me. There were some incredibly clever features that were really struggling to show in the photos. I think it would have been very striking on a real person, but wasn’t shown to its full effect on the mannequin.

The Total: 9.3 out of 10

Oooh, still can’t quite beat that first orange dress, or the 1860s ballgown! But anything over 9 is killing it in RTD!

This week:

I always associate New Years with the 1920s and 30s, so found a frock from the era to ring in the New Year of Rate the Dress with.

It’s amazing to think that this week’s frock, with its simple silhouette, scant 2 metre fabric usage, and hem that sits just below the knee, is just a generation removed from last week’s red velvet ensemble.

Evening Dress, Yteb, silk, sequins & metallic thread, 1926, The Philadelphia Museum of Art

Last week’s frock was for playing the gracious hostess at a holiday gala – mingling and chatting, perhaps performing an operatic carol or two. This week’s frock is for her daughter to kick her heels at a New Years eve dance, the pleats swishing, and the extravagant bow swirling about.

Evening Dress, Yteb, silk, sequins & metallic thread, 1926, The Philadelphia Museum of Art

The pleats are a clever design feature, keeping to the fashionable straight silhouette, while allowing the wearer movement and ease. In a sketch or poor quality photograph they could easily be mistaken for fringe (which was used on 1920s frocks, though nowhere near as often as its ubiquitous usage in cheap costumes and the popular image of the 1920s would suggest).

Other than the pleats, the dress uses no straight lines, and it contrasts symmetry and asymmetry at every point to create visual motion, even on a mannequin. On a moving person the gold lame of the lower skirt and sequins of the bodice, would shimmer and sparkle with the slightest move, creating the impression that the wearer was perpetually dancing.

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting. It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

(as usual, nothing more complicated than a .5. I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment, so I can find it! And 0 is not on a scale of 1 to 10. Thanks in advance!)

Scroop Patterns call for pattern testers scrooppatterns.com

Scroop Patterns – Call for Testers!

Published by The Dreamstress

UPDATE: Testing applications are now CLOSED. Thank you all for your interest!

I’ve got a new Scroop Pattern ready to be tested!

The Pattern:

Wide legged trousers or culottes inspired by my 1930s Deco Mermaid Beach Pyjama trousers – but with updates for modern construction and fit. They have front pleats, a pointed yoke, a loose, comfortable, dropped crotch seam, and a centre back invisible zip. And pockets!

Make them in linen, cotton, or rayon for summer, or wool for winter. In dressy silks and satins they are glamorous enough for formal wear.

The pattern comes in the full Scroop Patterns size range, from size 30-52

Sizes	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52
Body Measurements in Inches
Bust	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52
Waist	24	26	28	30	32	34	36	38	40	42	44	46
Hips	34	36	38	40	42	44	46	48	50	52	54	56
Body Measurements in Centimeters
Bust	76.5	81	86	91.5	96.5	101.5	106.5	112	117	122	127	132
Waist	61	66	72	76	81	86	91.5	96.5	101.5	106.5	112	117
Hips	86.5	91.5	96.5	101.5	106.5	112	117	122	127	132	137.5	132

Testers:

For this pattern I need testers who are low-intermediate or higher level sewers with some experience working with interfacing.

You will also need to:

be able to print patterns in A4, A0, US Letter or US full sized Copyshop paper sizes
have the time to sew up the item if you agree to be a tester for it
be able to photograph your make being worn, and be willing for me to share your photos on this blog and instagram.
be able to provide clear feedback
be willing to agree to a confidentially agreement regarding the pattern
have a blog or other format where you share and analyse your sewing

I would hugely appreciate it if you would share your finished make once the pattern launches, but this is not mandatory. I’m asking for TESTERS, not marketers. The requirement of a blog/other review format is to help me pick testers. I want to be able to see how you think about sewing, and that your experience level matches up to the pattern.

As always I’m be looking for a range of testers, in terms of geographical location, body type, sewing experience, and personal style.

The Timeline:

Materials:
If you’re selected to test I’ll let you know and send you the materials requirements, line drawings, and the full pattern description by 12pm NZ time on Tue the 1st of Jan (Mon the 31st for most of the rest of the world).

Patterns:
I will send out a digital copy of the pattern to testers before 2pm NZ time on Fri the 4th of Jan.

Testing & Reviewing:
Testers will have until 12 noon NZ time on Tuesday the 15th of Jan (11 days, with two full weekends) to sew the trousers, and respond to the testing questions. I will need basic photos by this date, but if you want a further weekend to take better photographs I can wait until Sun the 20th of Jan for those.

What you get:

Pattern testers will get a digital copy of the final pattern, my eternal gratitude, and as much publicity as I can manage for your sewing.

Keen to be a tester for the wide-legged trouser pattern? please email me with the following:

Your name
Your waist and hip measures
Your height
A bit about your sewing experience – particularly trousers
A link to your blog/Instagram/Flickr/Sewing Pattern Review profile/something else sewing-y presence
A link to a sewing make with a review (so I can see how you think about and analyse your sewing)
Do you have any other skills that would really make you an extra-super-awesome pattern tester? (i.e. experience copy-editing)

Email me to be a tester!

If you’ve already applied to/been a tester for Scroop Patterns in the past you are welcome to just copy and paste all the info into a new email, as long as nothing has changed.

Hope to hear from you!