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View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

The Cassandra Stays Sew-Along: Making the View B Stomacher with historical materials

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

Today’s Cassandra Stays sew-along post is a quick, easy one.

If, like me, you’re making View B, but with historical materials, you need to think about how you’re going to finish the back of your stomacher.  You don’t want it to just be buckram.  that wouldn’t be very nice!

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Lining the Stomacher: Option A

One way to finish the stomacher would be to sew and assemble the stomacher just like the stays, and then add a floating lining at the end.

You can absolutely do that, and it’s the best method if you are hand-sewing your boning channels.  However, I prefer a different method.

Lining the Stomacher: Option B

I like to line my stomachers before I sew in the boning channels, and sew the boning channels through all layers of the stomacher, including the lining.

If you are smart you will cut out your lining with all the other stomacher pieces:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

And baste all your layers together as one:

Cutting out the Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

If, like me, you had a little bit of brain fog and forgot to do that, don’t worry, you can just pin your lining on:

View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

 

Mark a guide boning channel with chalk (the yellow line), and sew your first boning channel line from the wrong side, just as you did with the rest of the stays.

View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Then use that as a guide for all your other channels.  Don’t forget that the stomacher takes wider boning, so your channels will not be the same size as the stay body channels!

View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

And there you go!  Pretty channels from front and back, all ready to insert the boning and then bind!

View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Perfect timing too, because I completely used up a spool of thread…

View B Stomacher, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

 

Rate the Dress: 1860s Pastel pink and bold black

I had this week’s Rate the Dress all picked out, and the post written for the dress part.  All I had to do was add in the ratings from the last Rate the Dress.

And then I discovered I’d already posted the frock I’d picked for this week!

So, back to the drawing board, which is why this post is a bit late.

Last week:  A very-fitted 1880s dress in cut velvet

Ooooh, last week’s dress was divisive.  Some of you loved the bold pattern and ‘sleek’ silhouette, and thought it was ‘delectably severe’.  Others could not get past the pattern placement on the bust (personally I love it when Victorian dresses do that, because it’s such a excellent illustration of how perceptions of ‘good’ placement change!), and thought it somehow both ‘dolorous and loud’, with a ‘dismal’ colour scheme.

If nothing else, there’s something to be said for a dress that evokes very strong opinions!

The Total: 7.4 out of 10

Not a single person gave the dress a rating of 7.4 out of 5, so sometimes the average really does not reflect the predominant sentiments in regards to an outfit!

This week:

Last week quite a few of you didn’t care for the dark colours, and the week before some didn’t care for the bold, clashing colours, so this week I’m seeing if pastels are more popular.  Since my first pink choice has already been used, here’s the standby:

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

This early 1860s evening gown is made of pink silk moiré, trimmed with black velvet, blond and black lace (probably machine made), and sheer silk.  It is probably in two parts, with a seperate bodice and skirt.  The skirt is tightly gathered in to the waist with tiny pleats.  There is slightly more fullness at the back of the skirt than the front, as fashion transitions from the bell shaped hoop of the 1850s to the elliptical shape of the 1860s.  The bodice sits off-the-shoulders, creating the sloped shoulder silhouette that was fashionable at the time.  The neckline is framed with a shallow V-shaped ‘berthe’ in velvet ribbon and lace.  The lace trim of the berthe merges with the lace ruffles of the short sleeves.  The bodice comes to an exaggerated point at the waist, and is finished with narrow piping.

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

This dress has a hint of the frou-frou of the late 1850s/early 1860s in the layers of delicate blond and black lace that frame the ribbon bertha.  At the same time the striking stripes that frame the hem anticipate the bold, graphic decorations popular in the mid-1860s.

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

This dress does, admittedly, have a very stark contrast between the pink silk and the black velvet trim.  However, pink and black are a very classic colour combination.

The pink moiré fabric and harsh black lines are softened by an overlayer of delicate gauze, to which the black stripes are stitched.  The overlayer would have added movement and interest as the dress was worn, particularly if worn for dancing.

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

Pink Silk Moire Evening Dress, early 1860s, Fashion Museum Bath

What do you think?  Is this pink and black confection just the thing for the belle of the ball?  Can it at least beat the rather lacklustre ratings of the last few weeks?  Or is it too, not to your taste?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

The Cassandra Stays Sew Along: Boning Channels

Previously on The Cassandra Stays Sew Along:

It’s time to sew your boning channels!

If, like me, you’re doing it by machine, that’s the work of a couple of hours.

If you’re amazing and doing it by hand, well, I hope you have a looooooong queue of podcasts, films, and TV shows to watch!

The Cassandra Boning Channels

There are a number of different ways to mark the boning channels for the Cassandra Stays.  I’m going to show you my two favourites.

With both of them you only need to transfer the black ‘guide’ boning channels from the pattern.  All the light grey boning channels just flow out from those:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Marking Boning Channels: Technique #1

My absolute favourite way to mark boning channels is to not really mark them all.  What do I mean?

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

I use a needle-point pattern marker/roll marker!

On crisp, tightly woven fabrics, and many buckrams, the holes are clear enough that I can see them to follow them as channels.  Ideally you’d do this technique on the right side of the fabric (it worked great on the cotton chintz I used for this pair of Augusta Stays) but the linen damask of my outer layer definitely won’t show holes.

You need to do this technique on each pattern piece just before you sew the boning channels, as the holes don’t last forever.

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

You can just see the line of holes below:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Unfortunately I didn’t think the holes were clear enough in this buckram, so I went with a different technique.

Marking Boning Channels: Technique #2

Transfer paper is my second favourite way to mark and sew boning channels.  It’s what I use if the hole technique doesn’t work.

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

If I’m using transfer paper I mark the ‘guide’ boning channels on the wrong side of the stays.

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Then I sew along the marked lines:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Then I turn the piece over, and sew all the other boning channels from the right side, moving the needle position until the edge of the foot is a guide to the right boning channel width:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

And I just keep sewing the next boning channel out from the one before:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Until I’ve sewn all the channels:

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

Then I do it for all the pattern pieces.  And that’s the boning channel marking and sewing done!

Boning Channels, Cassandra Stays thedreamstress.com

If you, like me, are combining View B and historical materials hold off on sewing the stomacher piece.  The next post will be Rate the Dress, but after that I’ll show a technique for ensuring a beautiful stomacher finish if you’re mashing up historical materials and View B.

And Slut!

(And look at me.  I managed to write a completely innocent post that included ‘slut’ and 19 incidences of the word ‘boning’ )