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Girls Attire for May 1906 from the Girl’s Own Paper

I’ve finally managed to find the time to scan all the fashion pages from my Girl’s Own Papers from 1905-07, and I’ll be posting them over the coming months (themed to the correct month, of course!).

I found the pages at a car boot sale in Napier during Art Deco weekend.  Sadly, they were loose papers, and the magazines are incomplete.  I’ve done my best to sort them based on the months given, and the page numbers, and to date them, but I’m not always 100% sure I’ve got the year correct.

I’m reasonably sure today’s pages are from 1906, thanks to some help from the incomparable Daniel in definitively dating a  page I shared a few years back to March 1906.  The page numbers suggest these two pages  are from the same year (though those also repeated on an annual basis, so these may be from 1905!).

These images are as large as my blog format will support, so hopefully you can read them.

Girls Attire for May 1906, The Girls Own Paper thedreamstress.com

Some delightful excerpts:

The white cloths and velvets and other perishable materials which, during the spring months, are worn by what servants call ‘carriage folk,” are generally made in styles which are either modifications or developments of the winter designs, while for June, July, and Arugust there is often a complete revolution in fashions.

My advice for May is, therefore, “Wait.”

Including lots of advice on remodelling:

Like all practical people, I suppose you always ask your dressmaker or tailor to send you home the cuttings of the material belonging to your gowns.  If so, use the largest piece belonging to your winter blue serge or grey tweed to convert your gored skirt into a corslet [sic] one.

Do go on to read how you do this – it’s quite a good section!

I foolishly neglected to scan page 474, which discusses how to shop for the hats to wear with the fashions, but I shall remedy that post-haste!

Girls Attire for May 1906, The Girls Own Paper thedreamstress.com

Note that the seated figure wears fashions suited to a young matron!  And the girl’s skirt could be adapted from the Fantail Skirt pattern.

Girls Attire for May 1906, The Girls Own Paper thedreamstress.com

Enjoy!

Rate the Dress: Arabella in all the ruffles

I was rather surprised at how many people didn’t like last week’s ivory and gold lace-embellished frock.  I thought, in the general scheme of ca 1850 evening wear, it was rather fetching without being too frou-frou, and while a lot of you agreed with me (Kate said everything I might have by describing it as “Sweet and demure, but lustrous and rich, ethereal and pretty”), a lot of you also thought it was totally blah and forgettable.

So it only came in at 7.4 out of 10 – not very impressive at all.

Since I promised colour, this week’s Rate the Dress goes back a century to another lace-embellished ballgown.

Here is  Arabella Astley Swimmer in a very pink frock embellished with poofs and ruffles in delicate white silk, with spangles in silver, and beads in black.

I’ve provided two version of the image: a smaller one, with slightly better quality details, and a larger version.

Arabella is shown carrying a masquerade mask, but that reflects more of the fashion in portraiture than that her dress was specifically for masquerades.

Anton Raphaël Mengs, Arabella Astley Swimmer, Lady Vincent of Stoke D’Abernon, 1753

Other then the spectacular ornamentation of the petticoat, and the elaborately ruffled stomacher, the dress is pretty standard mid-18th century high-fashion formal attire, with the one other quite interesting feature being the double sleeves, with small upper puffs with dangling ruffles above the usual elbow ruffles.

Anton Raphaël Mengs, Arabella Astley Swimmer, Lady Vincent of Stoke D'Abernon, 1753

Anton Raphaël Mengs, Arabella Astley Swimmer, Lady Vincent of Stoke D’Abernon, 1753

What do you think?  Is Arabella’s frock memorable and fabulous in the general scheme of 1750s fashion, or nothing much special?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

Kangaroos & Elephants Oh My! – (almost) first me-made dress

In the sewing community May is Me-Made-May – a month of trying to wear more of the things you’ve made, using them to get out of wardrobe ruts, and setting yourself personal challenges around them.

I’ve never officially participated, in part because wearing stuff I’ve made every day is pretty much an obligation of my work, and what I wear cycles in response to what classes I’m teaching at the moment, what patterns I’m working on for Scroop  Patterns, and the weather (which currently includes the first snow of the winter – yay (note sarcasm)).  In bigger part, I’ve always been too busy with either the Sew Weekly, or the Historical Sew Fortnightly. Between sewing-teaching work, history-lecturing work, pattern-making work, running the HSF, and life, I’m one additional thing  away from dropping all my balls – and I’m pretty sure that what I’m juggling is a mix of ostrich eggs in extremely  fragile shells (some of which are well past their best-by date), newborn  dragons (a la McKinley, where dragons are marsupials, so newborns are really squishy) and pressure-sensitive grenades.  If I start dropping things, it’s not going to be pretty…

So…no mental space for setting myself more goals, so no getting to join in the fun and  participating in Me-Made-May.  One year I’ll have the time!

But, as a tiny bit of joining in, I thought you might like to see the  earliest fully me-made item that is still in existence (I think):

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The very, very first item that I made, when learning to sew with the mother of a friend when I was 12 or 13, was a quadruple circle skirt gathered into an elasticated waist.  I made it in lavender floral craft cotton.  I can still remember the exact way in which Erin taught us to do rolled hems (the patience she must have had to talk two pre-teens through doing rolled hems on a quadruple circle!), and the gathering.  Sadly, it was not cord gathering, and gathering in 4 full circles with thread may be the reason I hated doing gathering for years!

We followed up the circle skirt with a matching blouse with cut on sleeves (because what every lavender floral quadruple-circle-skirt with an elastic waist needs is a matching blouse of the same fabric).

I have no idea what happened to the blouse, but after I outgrew the skirt it lived on for many years as a cover for banana stalks on the farm.  Bananas will sunburn, so after you cut a stalk, you have to cover it to keep them nice.  A quadruple circle skirt is perfect!

The next few things I made were costumes & dresses for my sisters, and some stuff from patterns  for myself that did not go well.  But I persevered.

A proper Halloween picture: the naiad as a Victorian lady (with a naiad on her cheek), Mum as a 20s lady, Goldie as a jester and me in '18th century'.

A proper Halloween picture: the naiad as a Victorian lady (with a naiad on her cheek), Mum as a 20s lady, Goldie as a jester and me in ’18th century’ – the last two  made by me

Shortly after learning to sew, my grandmother passed away, and I inherited her fabric stash.  I experimented with the less desirable stuff, and then started getting adventurous with the 1960s & 70s fabrics (I was too scared to touch the 40s & 50s stuff – thank goodness!).

And thus, this dress came about:

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

It’s not the first thing I made and wore, but it is the first everyday non-costume thing I made where  everything about it was me-made – including the pattern.  Frustrated with the poor results  I was getting from commercial patterns, I measured a bunch of things I already had, and drafted this one from scratch.

It’s a very simple pattern – high waisted top with back and front darts, A-line skirt.  And I was a very easy shape to fit at 15 – no bust or hips to speak of.  But I’m still really impressed that I figured that out at 15!

I caused quite a splash at school in it.  Everyone dressed in a specific-to-Hawaii cross between ’90s grunge and a dELIA*s catalogue (remember those?) – lots of blue-grey and khaki, but with surf-brand T-shirts, instead of ones with that monkey’s face on them.  BRIGHT yellow psychedelic kangaroos and elephants kinda stood out.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The sewing is very simple, and far from perfect, but still a very good effort for my age, and for taking the lessons I’d had, and pattern instructions, and the zip-insertion instructions on the zipper packets (remember when they still had instructions?), and turning them into a dress-from-scratch.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

It’s sewn with black thread, probably because I didn’t have any yellow to match.  I suspect I didn’t have a long enough zip, so came up with the button and loop solution on my own.

The one major mistake in the sewing that I noticed as soon as I had cut and sewn, and which bugged me then and continues to bug me, was at least a good learning experience:

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

See the lack of pattern matching at the waist seam?  Drives me CRAZY.  The minute I sewed the waist seam, I couldn’t believe I hadn’t thought about it when I cut it.  I have been very careful about pattern matching ever since.

Elephants & Kangaroos thedreamstress.com

The dress is fabulously obnoxious, and it made me happy then, and makes me happy now.  It got a lot of wear in its time – it may even have come to university with me, though I can’t remember exactly.  Sadly, there doesn’t seem to be a single photo of me wearing it.  I can still get in to it, but it would be a stretch to say it fits.  It would work really well if I ever needed a breast-compressing underdress for a very androgynous look!

I still have enough of the fabric left over to make another one (with proper pattern matching, natch) but I’m not sure I’m brave enough anymore.

Do you remember the first thing you made?  Anyone else still have some of their very early me-made items?