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Rate the Dress: Vionnet does gold and bows

Last week I showed you an 1860s dress in buff alpaca with red trim.  I was sure  the lopsided bodice trim would be noticed, and wondered how much it would affect the rating.  While you all agreed it wasn’t ideal, I don’t think changing it would have hugely affected the rating: those of you who loved the dress liked it despite the wonky trim, and the rest of you found the dress boring, even with crazy tassels.  So the rating came in at 6.9 out of 10, which doesn’t really reflect how any of you felt about it!

I actually thought the dress was rather awesome.  It clearly had some issues (asymmetrical tassels just over the bust is not a good thing), but every time I looked at it I imagined it being worn by an 1860s superhero.  It’s  Crinoline Girl!  She’s firing lightening bolts from the zig-zags on her arms!  Whipping  her Tassels of Doom (alas, I’m not very imaginative when it comes to naming weaponry) off from around her waist and using them to knock criminals unconscious, and then imprisoning them in her namesake crinoline until the proper authorities arrive!

How could I not love it?

Since last week’s dress was a Christmas-y frock for the Norther Hemisphere, this  week I thought I should do a New Years frock that would be comfortable on a sultry summer’s night in the Southern Hemisphere.

The delicate lace overdress has been ornamented with appliqued trompe l’oeil bows, which echo the bows in the lace

The black lace overdress is worn over a halter underdress of gold lame.

The gold halter dress could presumably be worn on its own, giving the owner two looks for the price of one, depending on whether she felt like being demure or daring.

What do you think? Just the thing for a night of celebration? And would you stick to the lace overdress, or show a bit of skin in gold?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

And a parakeet in a pohutakawa tree

As we do most years, Mr Dreamy & I are spending Christmas in sunny Nelson with his parents.  Nelson is famous for its good weather (though, ironically, every time  we spend Christmas in Nelson  it is  even hotter and nicer in Wellington than in Nelson), so that means I need lots of shorts and light tops and little summer frocks.  With a little free time before the holidays, I’ve been giving my summer wardrobe a refresh.

Mostly I’ve been making not-very-exciting T-shirts and other basics, but high on the to-sew list was a dress made from a meter of  amazing parakeet* patterned silk-cotton I found at the most recent Fabric-a-Brac fair in Wellington.

A Parakeet Christmas dress thedreamstress.com

My father used to breed parakeets, and, while I’ve never owned one, I’ve definitely inherited an affinity for them.  The sound of a chatter of parakeets is one of the happiest, most restful sounds I know.  It’s just impossible to be stressed listening to them!

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

Sadly, I’m unlikely to every have parakeets of my own.  Mr D dislikes birds and there is Felicity to worry about…

So I’ll just have to content myself with occasional happy moments with other people’s birds, and with making parakeet patterned frocks!

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

This one gave me a bit of trouble in the design stage – I only had a meter, and the silk cotton is too delicate to make anything fitted out of, and isn’t drapey enough to make anything that would cling on its own out of.  The obvious choice was a Henrietta Maria, but there wasn’t enough fabric, and I didn’t want the design of the dress to take away from the print at all.  So I settled on the simplest possible design: a halter shift-dress (essentially, a pillowcase dress for an adult).

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

I picked up a bit of dark coral silk crepe from The Fabric Store (where 20cm of it cost me as much as the entire piece of silk-cotton!) for the neck tie, and rummaged up a length of white silk-cotton I’d found at an op-shop only a few weeks before (whoop whoop!) for a lining.

The whole thing only took a few hours to put together (whoop whoop!) and I’m pretty pleased with the result.  If I lived in a warm-for-more-than-11-days-of-the-year climate I could see myself making a lot of these.

It made the perfect relaxed Christmas day dress: dressy and celebratory without being fussy (something I could not say for the fitted silk charmeuse dress I’m also working on at the moment).  It worked for sitting on the porch swing in the morning shelling peas, making the Christmas salad, and eating just a wee bit too much (only by a teeny little bit…) at the family lunch.

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

It was also comfortable enough to play the traditional post-lunch games of petanque.  We play by a set of house rules that allows my trademark one-foot-fling, and that requires that disputes as to the nearest ball to the piggy be settled with the use of my ever-handy measuring tape.

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com(side note: this is not a posed picture!)

A very satisfying sew, and it will get lots of use this year as we’re going home to Hawaii at the start of winter (YAY!) and I’ll be in LA for CoCo (double YAY!).

The only tiny hesitation I have about it is the length.  I’m not used to skirts that end above my knee!  I think I’m beginning to realise that the days of my being able to wear short skirts are definitely numbered, and I’d better take advantage while I can.  😉

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

 

In other news, I’m giving  the ‘statement brow’ trend  a try.  I’m not sure how I feel about it.  My brows are naturally quite thin and delicate, and the same unusual caramel colour of my hair, so when I catch a glimpse of my face and they are so BOLD (well, even visible at all) it feels weird – like I’m wearing clown makeup.  What do you think?

A Parakeet Sunfrock thedreamstress.com

I hope everyone else had a peaceful and happy Christmas!

A Parakeet sundress thedreamstress.com

* Even though it is a more precise and accurate term, I just can’t make myself call them budgerigars.  It’s such an ugly word, and even the otherwise adorable ‘budgie’ has been ruined for me by ‘budgie smugglers.’

Appliqued cushion tutorial thedreamstress.com

Tutorial: How to make a cushion cover decorated with applique

Happy holidays everyone!

As a little gift, here is a tutorial for making one of my favourite homemade gifts: a cushion cover decorated with an appliqued motif.  This tutorial uses iron-on bonding to apply the applique motif, which makes it MUCH easier to work with (and is also a great technique for anything you want to applique).

Appliqued cushion tutorial thedreamstress.com

To make an 18″ cushion cover  you will need:

  • One 35cm/14” to 40cm/16″ zip
  • 1/2 metre of mid/heavy weight non-stretch fabric cut into 3 pieces: one square that is 49cm x 49cm (19.25″ x 19 1/4″”) (for your cushion front), and two rectangles (for your cushion back) that are each 49cm x 26cm ( 19 1/4″ x 10 1/4″”)
  • a 30cm x 30cm piece of midweight cotton fabric for your applique
  • a 30cm x 30cm piece of Vliesofix (aka Bondaweb) or Steam-a-Seam  for your applique
  • One 18″ square cushion inner

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Plus basic sewing equipment like a sewing machine, thread, scissors, marking chalk, and iron etc.

First you’ll need to choose a motif for your applique.  For my demonstration piece I’ve gone for the most classically kiwi motif (literally), but you can applique almost anything with a bold, identifiably silhouette.  Some of the most popular motifs amongst my students have been hearts, cats, dogs (scotties are particularly cute), birds such as owls and swallows, the North or South island of NZ, apples, cars, ballerinas and the Jantzen diving girl.  Once you’ve mastered basic silhouettes you can use different fabrics  to make multi-part layered appliques.

Cut your motif out of your contrast cotton and your  Vliesofix or Steam-a-Seam.  Both Vliesofix and Steam-a-Seam are iron-on bonding: basically layers of heat-activated glue, which will fuse your contrast fabric to your cushion fabric when your iron them.  There are actually multiple kinds of Steam-a-Seam, so it’s best to read this post to determine which kind you have, and how you should use it.

Steam-a-Seam is stickier than Vliesofix, so can be repositioned as you work with it, which is helpful, but does make it harder to handle, as it will stick to itself.  It can also make the edges of your fabric fray more because of the stickyness as you work with it, so I prefer to only use it on very tightly-woven, non-fraying fabrics.  Otherwise they work basically the same.

If you are using a non-symmetrical motif which needs to be placed a particular way to look right (like letters) be sure to work with the fabric right side up, and the Steam-a-Seam right (sticky) side down.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Vliesofix comes with a layer of paper on one side of the bonding layer, and the stickier  types of Steam-a-Seam come with the bonding layer sandwiched between sheets of paper.

With some types of Steam-a-Seam there is a stickier side.  To figure out if there is one side of your Steam-a-Seam that is stickier flick one edge of your cut out motif to open up the layers, and carefully peel off a bit of the paper and feel for stickiness.  This side will go down, towards your cushion fabric.  You can do fancy things where you iron on the other side to the applique before you remove the backing paper on the other side, but  read the instructions in the post I have linked to find out if your Steam-a-Seam is one that can be ironed before all the paper is removed or not.

To simplify things, I’m just going to give a set of instructions that works for all the kinds of Steam-a-Seam, and Vliesofix.

Remove one layer of backing paper (if there are two) and loose  one edge of the other layer.  Position the bonding layer on  the wrong side of your cut out applique motif fabric.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Smooth it down with your hand, and then carefully remove the remaining backing layer:

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Position your motif on your square cushion cover.  If you are using Steam-a-Seam the stickiness will hold it on, if you are using  Vliesofix use a pin to hold the motif in place while you work with it.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Working from one side of the motif to the other (and removing the pin before you iron over it), iron on your motif.  I’ve photographed this without one to show the process, but I recommend using a pressing cloth, so that any bits of bonding that peek out over the edges are picked up on the pressing cloth.

Appliqued cushion tutorial thedreamstress.com

Make sure that  your applique is well adhered to the backing fabric all around the edges.  You can see that one of my kiwi’s feet isn’t quite attached, so I’ll press that again.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Next, set your sewing machine up to an applique stitch: a very tight, relatively narrow zig-zag stitch.  On this Janome Sewist  I’ve set the stitch length to .5 (Buttonhole stitch length) and the width to 2.5.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Check your stitch to make sure you are getting a nice tight stitch.  You can use a slightly more open zig-zag for a more rustic look, or an even tighter one for a very smooth, polished satin stitch.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Position your applique under the needle so that inner edge of the zig-zag stitch (inner toward the inside of your sewing machine) just covers the outer edge of the motif.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Without backstitching, begin zig-zagging along the edges of your motif, keeping the stitch just wrapped around the outside of the motif.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

When you come to a sharp turn in your motif, sink your needle and lift and turn.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

When you come all the way around your motif and meet your starting stitching, don’t backstitch.  Instead, leave long tails of thread:

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Pull all your threads  to the back of the fabric:

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

And tie them off in a knot:

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Knotting your threads instead of backstitching means that you don’t get an untidy bulk of  threads where you have backstitched.

And there you go!  An appliqued motif!

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Now, finish all the edges of your cushion cover pieces:

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

Insert your zipper following this tutorial)

https://thedreamstress.com/2012/12/tutorial-how-to-make-a-simple-zip-back-cushion-cover/

Making sure your zip is at least halfway open (so that you can turn it right side out later), lay the front of your cushion cover over the back, right sides together.  Pin and sew around the edges with a 1.5cm / 5/8″ seam allowance.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

To make turning the corners easier, most sewing machines have a really cool trick you may not be aware of.  In addition to the seam allowance lines to the right (and possibly left) of your needle, there is a line 1.5cm / 5/8″ in front of the needle on many machines, so that when the edge of your corner reaches this line, you know you are 1.5cm away from it, and should sink your needle and turn the corner.  On my machine the line is the little horizontal dash line  I’ve highlighted in a circle.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

When you have sewn around the whole cushion, trim off the corners if you are working with a stiff fabric (soft fabrics can be shoved into the corners to keep them nice and perky), turn the cushion right-side out, and insert a cushion.

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com

And there you have it!  An adorable, gift appropriate cushion cover!  Enjoy!  Happy sewing!

How to sew a cushion cover with an applique thedreamstress.com