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Pilot Frixion pens – my newest favourite sewing trick

These are Pilot Frixion pens, and they are my newest favourite sewing toy:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

They have been around overseas for a while, but haven’t been available in NZ for that long, so they are a relatively new toy to me.

Pilot designed these as erasable pens: you can write with them, and then use the special eraser end to erase the writing with friction.

Only it’s not really friction that makes the writing disappear.  It’s what friction creates, which is heat.  And that makes them perfect for marking fabric for sewing.

Let me demonstrate!

You start with a plain piece of fabric:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Write on it!

I use my pens for marking darts, pleats, notches, drawing out embroidery designs, marking dots for cartridge pleating: anywhere you want to be able to make a fine, precise line that is going to completely disappear.

For this demonstration, I’m just going to write a slight mis-quote of one of my favourite Katherine Mansfield lines.  The actual quote is “Modern souls oughtn’t to wear them”  with the ‘them’ referring to stays (i.e. corsets – a lovely example of how stays was still used  instead of  corset by many people well into the 20th century)

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Writing all over the cloth!  Nice, clear, precise, easily readable writing in a whole host of colours that will stand out on almost every fabric.  So useful as a sewist!

But how to get rid of it so it doesn’t show on the finished project?

Just iron it:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

And look!

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

COMPLETELY gone!

Better than any chalk or fabric marking pen, and more precise and easier to use!

The pens work (to break down the science in to total layman’s terms) because the heat of friction on paper, or of an iron on fabric, heats up the molecules and gets them excited and they move apart and loose the ability to reflect colour.

Because the marks are heat reactive, a funny thing happens if you get them really cold.  For example, put them in the freezer:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

20 minutes later the ghost of writing has returned (the Frixion highlighters come back almost at normal):

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

After two hours in the freezer, the writing is a bit more distinct:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

Another iron, and the writing disappears again:

Sewing tips thedreamstress.com

In addition to ironing, you can also make the marking disappear by washing your items in hot water.  If you wash before ironing, the marks are less likely to come back when exposed to extreme cold – ironing them first almost seams to ‘set’ the marks.

I LOVE these things!  Of all the tools I have for marking fabric (basically, all of them) these are the easiest to use, most precise, and most versatile.  Tailors chalk and chalk pencils aren’t that precise, and the chalk pencils are hard to get out.  I’ve had really bad luck with the fade-away pens  refusing to fade away on a variety of fabrics.  Chaco chalk pens are amazing, but super expensive and don’t work for every situation.  These pens are also quite reasonably priced (hence the reason I have two in every colour!).

They do have the minor drawbacks of not being a suitable marker for situations where you are ironing a lot as you work but still need to be able to see the markings, and  having the slight risk of reappearing on a finished item if it gets stuck in below-freezing temperatures for more than 15 minutes, but other than that they are AWESOME.

There is a similar looking erasable pen available in NZ, but they don’t work.  Only these ones.

When I first used them, I was quite worried about some of them not disappearing, or re-appearing, and was very careful to only use them for marking notches on the selvedges and in other places where they could never show on the finished item.  However, I’ve used them quite a bit, and have a number of students using them, and have yet to encounter a fabric or use where they refuse to disappear or do reappear (granted I rarely sew with synthetics or other super-heat sensitive fabrics).

I’d still recommend testing on new fabrics before blithely scrawling the name of each pattern piece across the front of your cut fabric 😉

The Historical Sew Monthly 2016 – it’s on!

The Historical Sew Monthly 2016 is on!

The page is up (you should be able to access it through the button above – the sidebar button will be up soon), and all the challenges are up.

This year the challenges are all new.  We’ve taken input from all the suggestions that came in this year, and suggestions from previous years to come up with 12 themes to motivate, inspire, and (most importantly) challenge you.  Hope you like them!

The overall format has stayed pretty much the same from 2015, but there a few small but important tweaks.  The date range has been moved back to pre-WWII, and the emphasis on historical sewing has been made clearer.

Can’t wait to see what everyone makes in 2016!

Rate the Dress: Walking in blue, ca 1884

Last week I showed you a forward thinking and backwards looking tea gown.  It was quite a divisive garment.  Some of you appreciated the way the flowing fit would flatter a fuller figure, but others found the design confusing and unresolved, or disliked the colour.  It got a lot of very high scores, and a lot of very low scores, evening out at 7 out of 10.  I suspect it might have rated higher if we could have seen it on a mannequin that was really the shape of the original wearer.

This week we’re sticking with the theme of slightly alternative fashions, with an 1880s walking dress with a bit of inspiration from the Aesthetic movement.

This dress intrigues me because it almost looks like the mythical Regency dress-made-from-a-sari, only 70 years late.  The metallic trim around the hems works with the cobalt blue to  give the dress a slightly exotic feel.  The trim is so unusual for a garment like a walking dress of this period, that I’m almost inclined to think it’s a later addition, although it is perfectly incorporated into the construction of the dress at every point (and certainly coordinates well with the parasol they have paired the dress with).

In addition to the parasol, the dressers have given the mannequin some shiny red gloves, and a jaunty straw  hat trimmed with dark red velvet rib and some red flowers.

What do you think about the frock?  Do you like the combination of the slightly relaxed impression given by the Aesthetic inspired gathered bodice and looser sleeves, with the exotic and glitzy trim on a daytime frock, or would the designer have been better to have stuck with an old classic, like nautical inspiration?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

(the dress, btw, is doing the rounds of pinterest with a caption that claims it’s the work of Callot Soers (which didn’t open until 1895), no link to the original source, and other incorrect information, so if you happened to  see it, now you know the correct info).