The Dreamstress

Thanks everyone for your support last week, and for showing that Rate the Dress was missed  I didn’t manage a non Rate the Dress post last week, but at least I’m back with Rate the Dress!

This week’s we’re going back in time 200 years from last week to look at a mantua: a garment that started out as an informal alternative to fully boned bodices, and eventually evolved into the most iconic gown of the 18th century: the sacque.

Last week: a peachy pink 1920s dance frock

Well, you have have loved the return of Rate the Dress, but you weren’t so sure about the dress itself.  Some of you thought it was adorable, but some of you were very dubious about it, particularly about the gathered hip panels.

The gathered hip panels were actually my favourite part: they are such a ridiculous touch that is so typical of their era.  And I loved the dress, partly because it would have looked great on 18 year old me.  I was straight up and down – no curves at all to fight with the frills!

The Total: 7.6 out of 10

Not to everyone’s taste, but still a success.

This week: a 1720s mantua

If you’re a fan of early 18th century fashion, you’ll probably recognise this week’s Rate the Dress pick.  There are so few surviving examples of 1720s mantua that ‘the green one’ tells you everything you need to need to know to instantly identify it.  I generally try to avoid featuring very well known garments on Rate the Dress, but, when there are so few options for a decade, it would be a terrible pity not to feature a well photographed dress.

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

And this is a VERY well photographed dress.  You should definitely head over to the object listing at the National Museum of Norway to see a spinning 360 view, detailed photos of the petticoat (it’s lined in golden yellow! (although I’m not sure that’s original)) and stomacher, and best of all, inside views of the dress.  Be still my heart…

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

Of the full dress pictures, I particularly like that the museum shows us both the mantua with the skirts pinned up, and the mantua with the skirts down.  So fantastic if you’re trying to replicate a garment…

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

While the maker for this dress is unknown, we do know some things about the garment.  This type of brocaded silk, with its patterning that imitates lace, was a specialty of Lyons.  It definitely dates the dress to around 1720, as the fashion in brocaded silks moved from the bolder patterns of early ‘bizarre’ silks (read more about them here) to the more delicate designs that would characterise mid-18th century fabrics.

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

The delicate floral and lace design of the fabric is contrasted with the crisp pleating of that shapes the dress.

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

If this is like other mantua, the pleating is not just decorative, but fits the garment to the body with the absolute minimum of cutting to the fabric

Mantua, ca 1720, silk with metal lace, National Museum Norway, OK-dep-01160

What do you think?  Would a lady ca 1720 feel grand and gorgeous wearing this?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.