Latest Posts

Rate the Dress: 1880s resort wear

Thanks to my annual Rate the Oscars post, it’s been two weeks since we had a Rate the Dress.  In the last one, we looked at an 18th century riding habit.  By and large you highly approved of the slightly unusual colours, and minor quirks that made it just that bit different, but only by and large, not unanimously.  It did loose points for the colours (some thought the gold too green), and for a lack of balance in the proportions.  Still, a perfect 9 out of 10 isn’t bad at all!

I know it’s cold in much of the world, but New Zealand is baking under late summer heat, and is in the midst of a drought, so that, combined with my recent trip to Napier, are making me think of linen frocks and resort wear.

Which might lead you to to think I’m going to post something 1930s, but no, this week’s Rate the Dress is a different take on linen resort wear: an 1880s  summer frock in sheer linen gauze and linen lace  (or so the museum dates it, though I suspect it’s fifteen years more recent).

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

The bodice and skirt are separate, with the join hidden by a faux belt trimmed with the same sky blue velvet ribbon that trims the rest of the bodice.

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

Unfortunately Abiti Antichi doesn’t identify the sky-blue fabric of the underdress, but they do give us something even better: a photograph of the original owner in the dress, so we can see  what it looked like on:

Dress in two parts of linen, lace and possibly silk, Abiti Antichi 165 original wearer

Notice how you can see the corset dents in her hips, and the line at her bust where it ends.

There is also a lovely close-up of the lace on the bodice:

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

Dress in two parts of linen and possibly silk, 1886, Abiti Antichi 165

What do you think of the frock?  Fresh, cool and summery?  Or at least as fresh, cool, and summery as one can be in 1880s layers?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A sporty ’30s summer suit – from stash

The third Historical Sew Monthly challenge of 2015 is Stashbusting.

Now, most of my sewing IS from stash – the problem is that I keep adding to the stash. :-/  Or starting a project from stash and then finding I need 3m of some fabric I don’t already own to finish it! :-p

I’m quite pleased about this outfit as a stash-busting exercise, because it’s from one of my oldest pieces of boughten stash.  Almost eight years ago, when I was just getting back into historical costuming, I bought ten metres of white cotton almost-pique at an Arthur Toyes 50% off sale (long shall we mourn their passing).  I bought it because it was 100% cotton fabric in white for $4 a metre, so how could I not?

I has this idea that I would make a reproduction of the dress on the seated woman in Monet’s Women in the Garden, but I quickly realised the fabric wasn’t right for that.  I couldn’t quite give up on the idea, or the fabric, so it lingered in my stash, being hauled around and reorganised for 8 years.

This year it finally had the chance to be useful.  With Art Deco Weekend coming up, I wanted to make this, in white with green buttons:

McCalls 8257

Alas, I could not find my green button and buckle set, or green contrast fabric that really felt right in any local fabric store.  But the white not-quite-pique was the perfect fabric.

So I hit on the idea of a handkerchief blouse in green and blue to match my shoes, and a sporty white suit with the skirt from the pattern and the bolero jacket.

1930sArtDecoSportySuitTheDreamstress4

Sadly I do not actually own that pattern, but I do have my own 1930s pencil skirt pattern, and the Wearing History Chic Ahoy Bolero pattern.  Sorted!

1930sArtDecoSportySuitTheDreamstress3

 

I am extremely pleased with the whole outfit.  Both pieces are so comfortable and surprisingly versatile.  I’ve never been much of a bolero fan, but this one is really winning me over.  The pleat darts at the shoulders make it sit beautifully, and the longer sleeves are a more flattering length than the usual short bolero sleeves.

1930sArtDecoSportySuitTheDreamstress5

 

So, much to my delight and satisfaction, some of that white not-quite-pique has finally made its way into being clothing.  Sure, I still have over 8 metres left, but that means I can still make that halter dress I wanted.  And, ummm…about 6 more pieces of 1930s clothing!

And, in perfect timing, I found a vintage slim cotton slip in an antique store in Nelson that is just ideal for wearing under this skirt, as long as I don’t go do silly things like sit on an anchor and show off the hem:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress23

 

The Challenge: #3  Stashbusting

Fabric:  1.5m of white cotton not-quite-pique, purchased in 2007 for $4pm.

Pattern:  My own 1930s slim pleat-front-and-back skirt pattern,  Wearing History’s Chic Ahoy bolero jacket  pattern

Year:  ca. 1934

Notions:  petersham ribbon, bias hem tape (to finish the insides of the bolero hem), cotton thread, and a zip

How historically accurate is it?:  I’m not sure of the petersham finish to the skirt.  And I’m not sure about a side zip on skirts this early.  So.  70%

Hours to complete:  4 for the two.  Talk about satisfactory sewing!

First worn:  Sunday  22 Feb, at Napier’s Art Deco Weekend

Total cost:  $9  ($6 for the fabric – the rest is in zips and petersham)

1930sArtDecoSportySuitTheDreamstress2

Art Deco 2015: Swinging* times in Sunny Napier

*And by swinging, I mean swing dancing, of course!

Another Napier Art Deco Weekend has come and gone, and another fabulous time was had by all – or at least everyone I talked to!

I almost didn’t go this year, because, while I had a great time last year, it was so ungodly hot  that I felt ill most of the weekend, and my memories of last year are also mixed up with how stressful it was (we took possession of our new house the day I left for Napier, and moved in three days after I got back!).  But the lovely ladies at the clothing swap convinced me to go, and I am so grateful for it!

I think this was the best Art Deco Weekend yet, and it was the best because I didn’t stress about trying to be anywhere, or do anything – I just let the good times happen when, and where they did, and they DID.

In previous years I’ve pushed myself to be at the costume contest to document it, and to photograph lots of attendees to show you the best fashions.  This year I just photographed the people I spent time with, and that’s OK, because the swing dancing crowd really are the best dressed people there anyway!

Lest you think I am biased, photographic proof.  Here I am with the Wellington Full Swing Crowd.  Tres elegante, non?

ArtDecoTheDreamstress12
I think swing dancers look best at events like this, because not only do they know a bit about the period and history, but they also wear vintage style clothes a lot, and know how to move in them, and they plan to be doing things in their outfits: dancing, biking, having gorilla hunts…etc.  So their outfits are practical and suited to the situation.  There is nothing less elegant and becoming than someone who looks uncomfortable in what they are wearing, and all too often that is the case with people in real vintage and (even in 34″ heat) furs.

But I digress!  Back to the fun and pretty photos!

First, a confession: I drove up to Napier  on Thursday (in Hepburn pants and Aloha blouse  – most practical and becoming for a road trip),  and didn’t get a single photo.  And then I got up Friday, ran around and visited 11 op-shops (the spoils of which I shall show you later), and didn’t take a single photo, until we went down to the beach after dinner (in a Vionnet frock, of course) to watch the biplane fly-bys.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress1

So basically, as a documentary blogger I failed for the first two days.  I made up for it Sat and Sun though!

On Sat I got up, put on my Bambi dress, finished hemming the last metre of hem on my Pants that Never End (as you do), and took photos.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress4

It was pretty easy, because I was sitting in the Glory Days Pamper Parlour, surrounded by great Deco architecture and gorgeous ladies getting their hair and makeup done.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress7ArtDecoTheDreamstress3  And  pool games (all pool games should involve men in braces and ladies in glamorous hats):

ArtDecoTheDreamstress9

And officers in lemon-squeezers, swoon!

ArtDecoTheDreamstress2

To go with the officer, I got to help a WWI nurse dress – we had to google to figure out how to do her scarf, and came to the conclusion from original photos that there was a lot more hair showing, and they were a lot messier, than Hollywood likes to show.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress11

After the Pamper Parlour, there were dance lessons to admire:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress10

And favourite outfits to document.

I’m loving this one as a modern take on ’20s.  Much more comfortable and attractive than the terrible ‘spandex and fringe with a chicken feather boa fancy dress look’ that you see so much of.  Also, those shoes?  Be still my heart!

ArtDecoTheDreamstress5

Best dressed couple!  You may recognise that dress as the Decades of Style button dress, which I’ve also made:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress8

And then lunch, and a stroll down to the beach for a pyjama party:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress13

You can read more about Kirsten’s beach pyjamas here.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress14

And then some lazy afternoon sitting around and watching the world go by:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress16

I spent the weekend as a walking advertisement for my sewing and Wearing History patterns (huge amounts of my wardrobe were adapted from them), and Alan (above) spent his weekend as a walking advertisement for Heyday repro vintage clothing.  As he said, “All the fun of the look, and then you throw them in the washing machine!”

Great for dancing in too:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress17

Only slightly worn out from all that looking fabulous, and a late-afternoon dance, we found it was time to glam up for dinner, more dancing, and an evening stroll and car-identification lesson.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress18

This year Napier put up stick-your-face-in-them billboards featuring the various posters they have used to advertise Art Deco Weekend.  Daniil and I decided we were much better dressed than the couple in the billboard, so we stood in front of it 😉

ArtDecoTheDreamstress19

That photo is a double outfit-brag for me.  Not only am I responsible for my look (purchased dress, my capelet), but Daniil’s tux is also borrowed from my [costume] wardrobe, because a lady should always help her friends to look as fabulous as possible!

After our beach promenade, I  took some time to stop and admire the  art:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress21

And then got a last photo with swing friends before heading off to bed an a ridiculously early hour (what can I say, I’m a wuss):

ArtDecoTheDreamstress20

Sunday involved being up bright and early to check out (boo).

After breakfast we checked out the market, and spent more time enjoying the waterfront and posing on the beach:

ArtDecoTheDreamstress23  Because really, who wouldn’t want to spend all day hanging out on a beach looking fabulous?

ArtDecoTheDreamstress22

No Sunday at Art Deco is complete without  a walk through the Gatsby picnic. This time I was lucky enough to run  into international vintage friends-who-I-hadn’t-met-on-person-yet at the Glory Days cucumber cinema tent (yay!):

ArtDecoTheDreamstress24

Sara is involved with the Bay Area Gatsby picnic and does all the US events, so naturally her clothes were amazing.  She won the costume contest too!  Not with these beach pyjamas, but with an original 1934 dress.

Post-picnic I went hunting, got a last photo with friends, and then (wailey, wailey), headed home.

ArtDecoTheDreamstress26  See you next year Napier!

ArtDecoTheDreamstress25