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Rate the Dress: Youthful chic in 1935

Last week I showed you an 18th century inspired 1880s dress, and you liked it, except for the shirring and sleeve trims, but thought it a trifle insipid, so it rated a rather meh 6.9 out of 10.

This week, let’s brighten things up a bit with a 1930s fashion plate, featuring a skirt and trim in deep orange.

This outfit is described as:

Jaquette mi-ajustee en flanelle rayee perpendiculairement, garnie de soie ecossaise. Jupe en lainage chine blanc sur fond orange. Boutons orange. Chemisier en flamisol blanc.

Or in English, roughly (since my ability to  speak/read French is confined to knowing all the textile words!)

Girl’s street ensemble: A semi-fitted  jacket in vertically striped flannel, trimmed with plaid silk.  Skirt of orange wool, flecked with white.  Orange buttons.  Blouse of white flamisol (a midweight plain weave silk popular in the ’30s, with a twisted crepe weft, and a rough silk warp, giving it an aesthetic that modern fashion writers would describe as ‘luxe casual’).

What do you think?  Elegant and suitably youthful, with the double whammy of ’30s & French chic?  Or is it too matchy-matchy, with every accessory in orange or white?  Do you prefer the orange hat, or the white one?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

Pivot points: Where were you when…?

I’ve got tons of sewing to show you, but I’m feeling chatty, so let’s talk instead.

I was having a real-life talk with a bunch of women today after our annual CBD Craft Crawl, about pivotal moments in history.  It started when one of them asked me “Where were you when Princess Diana died?”

The funny thing is, I don’t really remember Princess Diana’s death very clearly. I remember, far more vividly, Mother Theresa’s death less than a week later.  One of my sisters was obsessed  fascinated with Mother Theresa, so her death made more of an impact on my world.

I realised, though, that the woman who asked me was a couple of years younger than me, so Princess Diana’s death was probably the first memorable world event within her memory, and thus made the biggest impact.  I’m just enough older, that I remember another world event, though my memory of it is mixed up with weird childhood guesses at what was actually going on.

I just remember the fall of the Berlin Wall.

I didn’t quite understand the situation, and how there could be a wall, and why people were divided.  We certainly discussed it in school, and teachers tried to explain, but I didn’t quite grasp the concept.  I was quite impressed by images of chunks of the wall with graffiti.  I didn’t understand why people hadn’t just been tearing down the wall instead of painting it earlier. It wasn’t  until years later that I  understood that on one half of the wall, there was no graffiti, as people weren’t even allowed to approach it.

Talking about the Berlin Wall with this group of women, one of them said “Yes, I remember that, I was there.” We looked at her in astonishment, and then remembered that duh, she’s German (there are so many accents in Wellington that after a while you don’t notice all the differences).  She went on to explain that she wasn’t there knocking down the wall (she was five), but that her mother took the kids into West Germany to buy toys just after the borders open.  Her brother got a walkman, and she got a crying doll: things that were unattainable before the wall fell.  How amazing.

I do, of course, remember 9/11.

It was my first year of university.  My roommate liked to wake up to a radio programme (though technically, being the US, it was a program 😉 ) featuring a fire and brimstone Christian preacher.  Unless it is Ian McKellan, I’m not particularly keen on starting my day with “There will be no butter for your burns in hell!”  The Baha’i faith tends to focus on the personal and universal benefits of being good over the drawbacks of doing bad.

One morning I woke up to the usual damnation and fire, and staggered down the hall to the bathroom and shower for my morning ablutions.  I was standing in the shower, dazed and grumpy, when I suddenly woke up enough to realise that today’s flames and condemnation had been a bit…different.  I finished the shower in a hurry and rushed back down the hall to our room.  That day, the fire and damnation was the news, not a preacher.

With no guidance, and not sure what to do, I went off to my 9am class: Asian Art History.  The professor wasn’t sure what to do herself, so we got an unscheduled  lecture on the history and politics of Afghanistan, looking at the Buddhas of Bamiyan, and American involvement in the region during the Cold War.  Halfway through, we found out that all classes were cancelled for the day, but we all chose to stay until the end of the lecture.

The rest of the day was surreal: news in the main room, students crying, the double blow of hearing that a small plane carrying a professor was missing (it crashed in an entirely unrelated event), and attempts to call my parents.  It was midafternoon California time before I got through to Hawaii.  I said “Hey, I just wanted to let you know they have shut SF down but I’m fine”.  My dad said “What do you mean, you’re fine?”  Almost 12 hours after the event, my parents were still in blissful ignorance.

After 9/11, my roommate stopped waking up to the radio, and my parents started listening to the radio (NPR).  And I could no longer get sewing done on flights home.

Those are my memories of pivotal history moments.  My dad has told me about his memories of JFK’s death, but I can’t remember either of my parents talking about the moon landing.  My husband remembers the Aramoana massacre, and how terrifying it was, with so little information.

What do you remember?  What bits of history made a huge impact on your life?

A swiss waist

Way back in July 2012, when I got excited about swiss waists and what makes a swiss waist different from an underbust corset, I actually started making a swiss waist.

It even got worn by a model, not quite done, over my chemise a la reine, for a talk at a steampunk convention (ah Steampunk, such a great cover for a multitude of un-historicisms!)

And then I got really, really busy, and the swiss waist got shoved to the bottom of the PHD (as in, project half done, not the indefinitely postponed degree I may one day pursue…) pile.

With the HSF Terminology challenge coming up, I remembered my swiss waist, and that all it  really needed to be finished was two more hand-worked eyelets.

Easy!

Right?

Well….you know me. Here is my swiss waist. The front, with lacing: Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com And the unlaced back: Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com My main inspiration was this swiss waist.  I really liked the uber-curvy swoops of the silhouette.  I wasn’t so keen on the shoulder straps though, so skipped them, because there are enough swiss waists with shoulder straps that are clearly not part of the integral cut that I figured I could always add them later.  Halfway through, I decided I didn’t like the pleated trim on the inspiration, so I left that off as well.

In the end, I ended up with a fairly simple swiss waist:

Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com

Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com
And in the end, it’s just not right.

I mean, it’s a proper swiss waist: hand done eyelets, almost no outside stitching, turnings instead of bindings.

Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com

But the shape?  Just not doing it for me.

Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com

The back point is definitely too long, and the swoops just don’t look right.  I suspect skipping the sleeve straps wasn’t the best idea.

Reproduction swiss waist thedreamstress.com

Who knows though, I might like it a LOT more over an actual 1860s blouse and skirt.  Which I don’t really have (at least not of the type I’d want to put a swiss waist over).  So for now, I’m going to call it done.  And when I do have a blouse and skirt and can see what it actually looks like, then I’ll re-assess.  And maybe I’ll add straps and ruffles and do some re-shaping.  Or just make another one 😉

The Challenge:  #16  Terminology

Fabric:  1/2 of a recycled obi worth of black silk satin ($5 for the whole obi)), 1/2ish metre of cotton support fabric.

Pattern:  My own

Year:  1860-65

Notions:  cotton thread, plastic boning.

How historically accurate is it?:  About 90%.  The materials are about as close as you could get today (plastic boning included), and all the techniques match those on period swiss waists.  The interior finishing isn’t quite right, and the overall look isn’t quite making it.

Hours to complete:  Probably about 7, but I don’t remember anymore.

First worn:  Unfinished, by a model who wasn’t quite the right size for it, in October 2012.  Finished, not yet, and not for a while.

Total cost:  Under $5.

And (of course), most importantly:
Does Felicity approve?  She wants to sleep on it.  I don’t want her to sleep on it.  She’s grumpy.