We are so excited to introduce the first Scroop + Virgil’s Fine Goods mini collection! Marie, Charlotte and Sophia are three fabulous mantle patterns that can be purchased individually, or as a combined pattern of mantle amazingness.
Each of these patterns features two mantle shapes and a range of trim and construction techniques.
From the darling Marie (1740-1779), to the chic Charlotte (1770-1795), to the dramatic Sophia (1775-1810), these three patterns will elevate all your 18th century costuming ensembles, be the perfect addition to your cosplays, and add a fun historybounding touch to your modern wardrobe.
Between the three patterns there are 6 different body views, and instructions for:
Lined or unlined mantles.
Hooded and hoodless versions.
Interlining for extra-warm mantles.
Three hood styles: the small Marie with star pleating, the medium Charlotte with fan pleating, and the extravagantly large Sophia with hem pleating
Working with lace to imitate the look of 18th c all-lace mantles
Almost every possible type of mantle trimming:
pinked trim
hemmed trim
ruffled trim
pleated trim
purchased fringe as well as self-made fringe
marabou
faux fur
lace
If you buy the combined pack (and get 3 patterns for the price of 2!) you can mix and match hood pleating, linings, trims, and finishes between patterns for a practically limitless array of choices.
The detailed historically accurate sewing instructions cover everything you need to make your own beautiful versions, from first stitches to final trimming.
The pattern comes in four size packs that cover bust sizes 30”-52” (76-132cm). The pattern is very flexible in size, and can be worn above and below the range sizes.
I’ll be writing individual posts on each pattern over the coming week.
The 18th Century Mantle Trio is the fourth collaboration between Scroop Patterns and Virgil’s Fine Goods. Our patterns combine Amber of Virgil’s Fine Goods’ extensive mantua making skills with my patternmaking and teaching skills.
Our goal is to bring you easy-to-use historical patterns with comprehensive size ranges and detailed historically-accurate instructions. The patterns are available as downloadable print-at-home patterns, to make historical sewing more accessible to sewists everywhere, and as paper patterns through Virgil’s Fine Goods and other stores.
We’re extremely proud of this pattern, and are so excited to see your versions!
All the gorgeous tester versions will be coming shortly! Their makes are so inspiring. They combined views, used our trim suggestions, and styled the mantles to their own taste.
The mini-collection of Scroop + Virgil’s Fine Goods mantle patterns are due to launch the first week of December, and we’re SO excited about them!
Apparently you’re so excited too, because we’ve been receiving messages asking about the fabric requirements for the upcoming patterns, so you can shop the Black Friday sales for your fabric and get sewing as soon as the pattern launches.
As always, happy to help! Here are the suggested fabrics and requirements for each pattern, so you can start shopping and dreaming 💛
Sizing:
All three patterns will be available in four sizes which cover the full Scroop + Virgil’s Size Range of 30”/76cm bust to 52”/115cm bust. Because mantle patterns are so adaptable, the patterns will easily fit larger and smaller sizes as well.
The Patterns:
The Marie Mantle: 1740-1779
The Marie is an unlined short mantle with two body views and an optional small hood. The pattern includes instructions on self-fabric trim variations, as well as instructions on making it in lace or gauze in addition to standard fabrics like light-midweight silks.
Recommended Fabrics:
Light-midweight silks including silk satin, silk taffeta, and silk lustring/lutestring. Lightweight cottons including muslin and voile. Gauze weaves, lace, and net in silk and cotton.
Consult period images and extant mantles for examples of accurate fabrics and colours.
IMPORTANT: The fabric requirements include the amount needed for cloaks cut in one piece with no centre back seam and the grainline running along the width of the mantle, and mantle cut with a centre back seam and the grainline running up and down the mantle. Directional fabrics should be cut with a centre back seam, or otherwise pieced.
Mantles with hoods and without hoods require the same amount of fabric.
Notions:
1½y/1.3m long x ½”/1.2cm-2”/5cm wide silk ribbon for the neck ties
100/2 linen or silk hand-sewing thread
Hoodless mantles: ⅝y/.5m ¼”/3mm wide cotton or linen tape to reinforce the neck
Lace Edging for Fabric Mantles, hem, front edge, and hood edge trimmed with lace:
View A: 5⅛y/4.7m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim with one straight edge and one scalloped
View B: 5¾ y/5.2m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim with one straight edge and one scalloped
Lace Edging for Fabric Mantles, hem only:
View A: 2⅝y / 2.4m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim with one straight edge and one scalloped
View B: 2⅞y / 2.6.m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim with one straight edge and one scalloped
Lace Edging for Lace Mantles, to create the effect of an all-lace mantle:
View A: 5½y/5.2m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim, either with one straight and one scalloped edge, or with scalloped edges on both sides of the lace
View B: 6¼y/5.8m long x ¾”-2”/2cm-5cm wide lace trim, either with one straight and one scalloped edge, or with scalloped edges on both sides of the lace
Self Fabric Trim: Add an additional ¼y/.2m to your fabric requirements for self-fabric trim cut into strips.
The Charlotte Mantle 1770-1795
The Charlotte is a lined or unlined mantle with two body views and an optional large hood. The pattern includes instructions on self-fabric trim variations.
Recommended Fabrics
Outer Fabric: silk taffeta and satin, figured silks. Midweight fulled wools. Sheer cotton for unlined versions, and printed cotton for lined.
Lining: Light-midweight silks including silk satin, lightweight taffetas, and silk lustring/lutestring. Cotton and wool cloaks sometimes had cotton or linen linings or part-linings. If using silk, the outer and lining may be the same fabric.
* Additional piecing is required to fit the pattern pieces on the fabric. See cutting layouts for suggestions.
Consult period images and extant mantles for examples of accurate fabrics and colours.
IMPORTANT: The fabric requirements include the amount needed for mantle’s cut in one piece with no centre back seam and the grainline running along the width of the cloak, and cloaks cut with a centre back seam and the grainline running up and down the cloak. Directional fabrics should be cut with a centre back seam, or otherwise pieced.
Mantles with hoods and without hoods require the same amount of fabric.
Add an additional ¼y/.2m to your fabric requirements for self-fabric trim.
Notions:
1½y/1.3m long x ½”/1.2cm-2”/5cm wide silk ribbon for the neck ties
100/2 linen or silk hand-sewing thread
Hoodless mantles: ⅝y/.5m ¼”/3mm wide cotton or linen tape to reinforce the neck
Optional: 2”/5cm wide silk ribbon for trimming. Trim can also be made from self fabric cut into strips. Add an additional ¼y/.2m to your fabric requirements for trim.
View A: 9¼y/8.5m ribbon.
View B: 11¼y/10.3m ribbon
The Sophia Mantle: 1775-1810
The Sophia is a fully lined mantle with two body options featuring squared off lappets that fall to high and mid-calf, an enormous high-fashion hood, and instructions on adding fur, marabou feather, or handmade fringe trim.
Outer Fabric: silk taffeta and satin, figured silks, velvet and velveteen, fulled wools. Silks & velvets in black, ivory/white, and shades of pink and coral; and wools in black and red are the most common colors seen in extant examples and period images.
Interlining (optional): cotton or wool flannel, very thin wool quilt batting. Polyester quilt batting is NOT recommended as it is too bulky.
Lining: Light-midweight silks including silk satin, lightweight taffetas, and silk lustring/lutestring. The outer and lining may be the same fabric. Some images show mantles with contrasting linings: black or pink/coral mantles with white linings appear to have been most common.
All fabric requirements allow for cutting directional fabric. Extra fabric will be needed for print matching.
* This size and view can be made with ⅝y/.5m less fabric if Piece B is pieced on the corners.
IMPORTANT: Add an additional ¼-½y/.2-.4m for self-made fringe trim.
Notions:
1½y/1.3m long x ½”/1.2cm-2”/5cm wide silk ribbon for the neck ties
100/2 linen or silk hand-sewing thread
Trim for neck, hood edge, & lappet ends only: 4y/3.7m fur, marabou feather, or cotton or viscose brush fringe.
All edges trimmed: 8¼y/7.5m fur, feather or or cotton or viscose brush fringe.
Self-made silk fringe, neck, hood edge, & lappet ends only: Add an additional ¼y/.2m of fabric per layer of fringing.
Self-made silk fringe, all edges: Add an additional ½y/.4m of fabric per layer of fringing.
And that’s it! Happy shopping!
We shared some mantle inspiration in our call for testers, but here’s a bit more:
Thomas Gainsborough, portrait of Louisa Barbarina Mansel, Lady Vernon, 1763-7 (c) National Trust, Sudbury Hall; Supplied by The Public Catalogue Foundation
Carrington Bowles, ‘A Nettle between Two Roses’ 1790 hand-colored mezzotint British Museum
Carrington Bowles ‘A Decoy for the Old as well as the Young’ 1773, hand-colored mezzotint, British Museum
Princess Marie Charlotte Amalie of Saxe-Meiningen by Johann Georg Ziesenis
(fun fact: this fabric is made by the same manufacturer as the in/famous Our Flag Means Death breakup robe!)
Other than me, it was an Angelica fest. Mme Kez wore the sample Angelica she modelled, and Averil sported another just-finished Angelica, in country appropriate linen, altered to be front fastening with hooks.
And somehow we all, excepting Nina, forgot our bust bows. I don’t know how. Mine was sitting on my dressing table, complete with pin, when we got back.
The Hattenburn Gardens were lovely, with amusing and informative signs about the artwork, the plants, and permaculture. There were picturesque koi streams:
And lovely old benches (which Nina and Averil engaged in a ladies fisticuff battle over):
And shady spots to escape the blazing sun:
But the best thing about the gardens? Cats! I will never not be excited to see a cat!
He just loves me for my feathered hat. See how he ignores Nina? He had just espied the hat!
Cats and costumes. They just go together!
After touring the gardens and getting slightly blinded in the glare, we headed off for some very 18th century appropriate…
…ice cream!
It may not be ices at the Pot and Pine Apple, but real fruit ice cream is a delightful New Zealand experience, and we certainly delighted and amused the customers and staff at the roadside fruit shop.
Real fruit ice cream is frozen fruit of your flavour choice (I got strawberry and boysenberry, but cherry is also a firm favourite) blended up with vanilla ice cream right in front of you and swirled out into a ridiculous tower of fruity deliciousness.
They asked if we had come from filming something. We were very good and just said it was a hobby, instead of being cheeky and saying we were off the set of Time Bandits, which was filming in the neighbourhood!
A most delightful time! I highly recommend low pressure frolics over high pressure events!
Cats and costumes. They just go together!
