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Frou-frou francaise progress (and Fissy)

I’m stitching away at the ca. 1760  robe  Ã   la française, in between teaching classes and giving lectures and marking papers and re-fashioning shoes and drafting patterns and being a human being.

I started with drafting a pattern:

ca. 1760 Robe a la Francaise toile thedreamstress.com

Then I sewed up a linen support bodice, and worked eyelets down the back, so that I could tighten it with laces:

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Then there was a great deal of sewing huge lengths of fabric together with teeny-tiny hand stitches.  Time consuming, but not very interesting!

Then I pleated the back pleating, and hand-stitched it down with silk thread.

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Then I basted at the shoulder seams, and down the side seams, and cut the fabric down to the waist, and out for the front skirts:

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I’ve figured out the side pleating, and marked the lines to cut down for pocket slits, and finishing those is my next task.  Then on to side pleating, front bodice attaching, hemming, sleeve construction, sleeve insertion, finishing, and trimming.  Makes it sound so simple!

1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I’ve dubbed it the frou-frou  française,  because the fabric is just so deliciously scroop-y.

Felicity loves the scroop.  The taffeta is like catnip to her.  It figures that I’d manage to have a cat that is totally indifferent to catnip, and goes mad over silk!

Every time the fabric comes out, so does the cat:

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

Yes indeed, this shall be mine…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

I shall lie on it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and hide under it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and sleep on it…

Felicity and the 1760's robe à la française thedreamstress.com

…and play with it…

And generally be utterly adorable and totally annoying!

The HSF Challenge #25: One metre

This is it!  The second to last challenge to be posted!

I was a little stuck on this challenge, as all my ideas were either too elaborate and demanding for such a busy time of year, and for the end of a marathon, or too similar to the challenges around it.  So I opened the suggestions up to popular opinion on the HSF facebook group.

Clearly you guys weren’t too worried about ‘too elaborate’, as the second most popular suggestion was ‘Copy a Painting’, but the slightly more restrained ‘One yard/metre’ suggestion won out in the end (Make something in under 3 hours was also very popular, which had me a bit worried.  If it ended up taking longer, did you fail the challenge?).

So, for Challenge #25, due 16 December, make an item that takes one metre or less fabric (I went with one metre, rather than one yard/or metre to be consistent).

So what takes less than 1m of fabric?.  Lot’s of things I’m sure!  I’ve thought of :

1920s & ’30s tap pants & camisole bras (my tap pants pattern takes less than a metre for up to 50″ hips):

Tap pants & Brassiere by Boue Soeurs, French, 1920's via Vintage Textiles

Tap pants & Brassiere by Boue Soeurs, French, 1920’s via Vintage Textiles

Swiss waists:

Swiss waist, 1860s, American or European, via the Met

Swiss waist, 1860s, American or European, via the Met

Regency short stays:

Wrapped corset, ca 1800, Musee Galliera

Wrapped corset, ca 1800, Musee Galliera

Mid-19th century evening bodices (truly, I got Rowena’s bodice out of far less than a metre):

Ball gown, warp printed silk, 1840s, Whitaker Auctions

Ball gown, warp printed silk, 1840s, Whitaker Auctions

Stomachers:

Lady Innes, Thomas Gainsborough, 1757

Lady Innes, Thomas Gainsborough, 1757

Pockets:

Pocket, printed cotton & linen, 18th c, American, MFA Boston, 48

Pocket, printed cotton & linen, 18th c, American, MFA Boston, 48

Aprons:

Apron, 18th century, British, silk, metallic, Met

Apron, 18th century, British, silk, metallic, Met

Fichu:

The Ladies' Home Magazine 1860 - Fichu

The Ladies’ Home Magazine 1860 – Fichu

Bust improvers:

Bust improver or reducer, made of cotton with metal boning, by Spirella Styles, (patented) 1907

Bust improver or reducer, made of cotton with metal boning, by Spirella Styles, (patented) 1907

Muffs:

Muff English, 1785—1800 England, MFABoston

Muff English, 1785—1800 England, MFA Boston

Crazy awesome men’s cap thingees:

Man's cap, American (Boston, Massachusetts), 18th century, MFA Boston

Man’s cap, American (Boston, Massachusetts), 18th century, MFA Boston

Those little teeny-tiny evening spencers that have been all the rage among Regency costumers over the last year:

And I’m sure that there are many more that you could suggest!

To keep within the spirit of the challenge, try to avoid making something that also involves metres and metres of trim (so a stomacher covered in ribbon bows rather defeats the purpose).

Rate the Dress: Stripes & fringe and pleats and ruffles (and more stripes) ca. 1880

Last week one suit faced off in a Dudes Dress-Off with two different looks: the first, as Joanne put it, Mr Darcy, restrained with a matching waistcoat, and the second Sir Percy Blakeney, with bright coral waistcoat and pompadour hair.  While Joanna preferred Sir Percy, ultimately we’re all suckers for Mr D (which is not, as it happens, why my Mr D is Mr D), and the simpler styling came in at 8.4 out of 10, compared to 7.5 out of 10 for the pink waistcoat.

The biggest criticism of the suit with the bright waistcoat was how the LACMA had styled it: everyone agreed that the corsage was a thing of horribleness and a eyesore forever.  Be glad I didn’t post the close-up of the corsage!  It was beyond hideous…

This week, I’m presenting another corsage-bedecked bit of finery, but with this one the corsages are original to the garment.  This striking natural-form evening gown makes use of at least three corsages, and pretty much every other type of trim possible.  There is pleating, fringe, bows, more pleated ruffles, draping, plus fun with stripes involving two different striped fabrics.

There is a lot going on!  What do you think?  Does the gown pull off elegant excess, or is it all just too much?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.