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The Modern Red Riding Hood Cape – construction details

When I posted about the Modern Red Riding Hood Cape, I promised to post some construction details.

Modern Red Riding Hood cape thedreamstress.com

The cape is made from McCalls M6446.  I made some changes to the pattern:

Cutting:

I cut the the pattern as directed, except for side back panel 6.  The pattern has the grainline placed so that the grain of the fabric runs straight across the shoulder:

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape

I felt this gave the cape a stiff, tent-like shape, and wasted fabric, so instead I cut panel 6 with the side-back seam (the seam facing down in the image above) cut parallel to the selvedge, along the grain of the fabric.  Not only does this improve the fall of the cape (in my opinion), it also saves fabric.

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape

You can see here how the grainline as panel 6 meets the side-front seam is almost cross-wise of the grain now:

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape

Lining:

M6446 doesn’t come with a pattern for the lining.  To make one, I cut the lining fabric the same as the outer fabric for the side-back panels 6.  I pleated and sewed the lower back piece to the upper back yoke, and then used that as a pattern piece for a back lining piece.

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

This means that my back lining piece has no pleat, so the lining is not quite as full as the outer cape.  This is not a problem in wearing (in fact, it probably would be a problem if there was a pleat to the lining).

Modern Red Riding Hood cape thedreamstress.com

For the front piece, I cut a lining piece the same as the outer, minus the facing, plus seam allowances.

Finishing:

In order to still have arm slits with a lining, I left gaps in the lining the same size as the arm slits, and then hand-stitched them down around the gaps, just as you would stitch around the inside of a bound buttonhole.

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

I hemmed the red lining with a tiny narrow rolled hem, and hemmed the wool with a line of bias tape, hand-catch stitched to the outer.

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

And since I love piping, and had some over from piping marathon 2013, I put a layer of tiny white piping between the lining and the facing, just as you might see a fold of a contrast fabric between the lining and facing of a really lovely man’s suit.  It doesn’t show up well in photographs, but looks spectacular in person, and provides just the perfect custom finishing touch.

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

Everyone who has seen it says “Oooooh…”

Oh, and a few cool bits:

I really, really, really wanted to line this cape in the rose patterned red viscose jacquard.  I didn’t actually have enough of it.  So I pieced:

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

And I pieced:

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

And then I pieced some more:

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

(Goodness.  Sorry these look so crap.  They look great on my computer, it’s only once I upload them to the blog that they turn into glowing red pits of sewing evil).

And there ’tis!

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

M6446 Modern Red Riding Hood Cape thedreamstress.com

Tutorial: How to dye leather shoes & handbags

My tutorial on how to dye fabric shoes is one of my most popular posts, and lots of people have used it.  I thought you might also appreciate a tutorial on how to  colour leather shoes, because that can also be done.  Technically you aren’t dyeing leather: you are staining it, and this is infinitely more awesome than dyeing, because it means that you can colour almost any colour leather shoe to almost any other colour.  A black shoe can become pale blue, a green shoe can become pink, etc.

You can also use this tutorial to dye leather handbags, and to refresh leather goods that have become a bit worn with time.

What you’ll need:  

  • TRG the One Colour Dye & Preparer
  • Leather (but NOT suede or patent leather), synthetic leather or canvas shoes or handbag.
  • Newspaper to protect your work surface
  • A Green Scrubby or other slightly abrasive cleaning pad
  • Gloves (optional, but a good idea)
    How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

Today, to show you how to do it, I’ll be dyeing/staining a pair of chestnut brown leather shoes red, with black heels.

These are my shoes before dyeing:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

And after:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

Since I really like fashion history, I’ve used a pair of late 18th century shoes as inspiration for my colour scheme.  I just love the red bodies with the crisp black heels.

Shoes, ca 1785-95 the Netherlands, Rijksmuseum  Leather with silk ruches

Shoes, ca 1785-95 the Netherlands, Rijksmuseum Leather with silk ruches

You can colour your shoes any shade you want, and use anything you want as inspiration.  TRG Colour Dye comes in a huge range of colours.

To dye your own shoes, have newspaper spread over your work area, and all your items read.

First, open your Colour Dye kit.  There are other brands and other similar products, but this is the one that I’m familiar with, and it seems to be the most widely available leather dye product.  Inside you’ll find a jar of dye, a jar of preparer, a little brush, a little sponge, and a mystifying direction sheet.  Don’t worry about that last bit, that’s what I’m here for!

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

You’ll be starting with your Preparer.  The Preparer cleans your leather, and strips off any coatings which would keep it from absorbing the Colour Dye.  Pour a little Preparer on to a Green Scrubby, and working in circles, clean and scrub the entire surface of your shoe/bag.  You may need to put a little more preparer on to the Scrubby as you go.

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

As you scrub the Preparer into your leather it may change colour slightly as the wet Preparer darkens the shoe.  The back shoe has been scrubbed, the front shoe is still to be done except a small section on the toe which I’ve already started:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

When you have completely cleaned the shoes, let them dry for at least 15 minutes, so that the Preparer doesn’t prevent the Colour Dye from absorbing into the leather.

Once they have dried, you can start painting them.  First use the brush with just a little bit of paint on it to paint the edges where the shoe meets the sole, and at the top of the foot, and any seams:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

If your original shoe/leather colour is fairly close to the colour you are painting the shoe/leather item, it won’t show up much at first.

Once you have painted the seams and edges, use the brush to put a little paint on the sponge that came with the dye kit:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

With long, smooth strokes, use the sponge to smooth a light, thin layer of dye colour over the surface of the entire shoe:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

It’s a very light, thin layer, so may not show up much.  Once you have both shoes, the first one should be dry enough for you to use the brush to put more paint on your sponge, and you can rub another light layer on.

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

Keep smoothing on thin layers, allowing just a minute or two to dry between.  Once you’ve put three or four layers on you should really see the colour change. At four layers, you can really see the difference between the body of the shoe and my as-yet-undyed heel:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

Most items will need no more than six layers.  If you aren’t sure if you have done enough, you can always let your item dry completely (for at least 48 hours), and then add more layers if needed.  The colour will deepen and even out slightly as the stain dries.

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

DO NOT attempt to continue decorating or mask off portions of your shoe for further dyeing until they have dried for at least 48 hours.  If you do, this happens:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

Ooops.

Don’t worry though!  If you accidentally pull off or scuff the finish before it has dried fully, you can always just touch up that area, and your new coat will just blend right in.  Whew!

Since I did a two-colour dye job, I waited for my first colour to dry slightly (just half an hour) before adding the second:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

I’d left the heels un-painted, but already I’d already Prepared them along with the rest of the shoe, so I could just start painting on black.  Here they are with three layers of black on the heels.  You can see how there is still some streakyness and chestnut brown showing through the black:

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

And here they are completely done:  Lovely smooth glossy red shoes with crisp black heels!

How to dye leather shoes thedreamstress.com

You can also use the Colour Dye to refresh worn out leather goods.  I have a vintage red leather bag that I love, but that had gotten extremely shabby, with cracked leather:

How to dye worn out leather thedreamstress.com

How to dye worn out leather thedreamstress.com

Ick.

To restore the bag, first I treated it with the Preparer, just as I did with the shoes.

Then I painted the worst areas of damage, the seams and the details with the brush.

Then I used the sponge to smooth on three coats of Colour Dye.  It didn’t need nearly as many coats of dye as the shoes, because the bag was already red.

And here is the refreshes and restored bag:

How to dye worn out leather thedreamstress.com

How to dye worn out leather thedreamstress.com

So much better!  

Here are the bag and shoe together, so you can compare the colour:

How to dye worn out leather thedreamstress.com

The shoes are just a tiny bit darker, more oxblood than cherry, because the dye went over the darker chestnut colour, rather than red, but the difference is pretty subtle.

After dyeing my shoes and the medium sized handbag, I still have more than half a bottle of shoe dye, so every kit will do at least 3 pairs of shoes: very economical indeed!

And there you go!  Easy, peasy and fun!  Now you can refresh all your shoes, and have them in the perfect colour, no matter what shade they were sold in.

A hat re-make for Polly / Oliver

It’s Re-Make, Re-use, Re-fashion fortnight on the HSF, and I have so.many.things that need re-fashioning, because I’m always buying hats and shoes that look historical – if only I re-trim and re-shape them, and old clothes made out of historically plausible fabric that need to be re-fashioned into historically plausible garments.

I’m starting with a simple re-fashion.  I took this broad-brimmed wool hat:

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

And re-made it into this spiffy number for Polly / Oliver:

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

Now, I know you are thinking “Hey, wait a minute, didn’t you post pictures of you in the completed Polly / Oliver outfit, with a hat a month ago?”

And yes, I did:

The ca. 1885 'Polly / Oliver Perks' Terry Pratchett inspired ensemble

However, much as I am ashamed to admit, the hat in the Polly Oliver photoshoot was entirely held together by an elaborate collection of safety pins.  Naughty me!

So this week I got my act together and actually finished the hat properly.

My inspiration for the hat, in an attempt to combine 1880s accuracy with the aesthetic of a tall military shako, were this swish little black number:

Hat Mme. Mantel  (French) Date- ca. 1885 Culture- French Medium- fur, wool, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Hat Mme. Mantel (French) Date- ca. 1885 Culture- French Medium- fur, wool, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art

And this tall straw number:

Hat, 1884-86, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Hat, 1884-86, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Hat, 1884-86, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Hat, 1884-86, Metropolitan Museum of Art

I started with a broad brimmed wool felt hat:

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

I got the crown wet with hot water:

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

And then re-shaped it over a tall conical bowl, using elastic to hold it on snuggly.

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

As I reshaped it, I turned up one side of the brim:

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

Once the hat had dried, I trimmed the brim down to a narrower width.  Then it sat for a month, then got trimmed with safety pins for a photoshoot, and then this week I finally sewed on a feather, some gold cord, and a gold insignia bit-thingee.

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

I half love the gold insignia, and half think it makes the hat look too Western.  On the love side, I managed to cobble together something that, if you know what you are looking for, and squint your eyes, looks like a flaming cheese (see the round cheese with a wedge missing?  And the flames).  I’ll have to take a photo of the back of Monstrous Regiment so that you can see what I am talking about.

Polly Oliver hat remake thedreamstress.com

On the too Western side, I’m not sure what to do about it.  Any suggestions?  Maybe I should put the tassel I had in the photoshoot back on…  Or make a full on shako, and re-make this to look more directly like my first inspiration hat.

The Challenge:  #18  Re-Make, Re-Use, Re-Fashion

Fabric:  One broad brimmed wool hat ($6).

Pattern:  None

Year:  ca. 1885

Notions:  1.3m gold braid, gold badge, gold button, ostrich feather, thread.

How historically accurate is it?  Not.

Hours to complete:  3.

First worn:  Not yet.

Total cost:  NZ$10 for hat and trims.