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Is there a doctor in the house?

I’ve been reading Victoria Finlay’s Colour, and in her chapter on indigo she discusses how urine was used as the alkaline agent for fixing dyes across millennia and cultures: from ancient Pompeii to early 20th century Scottish islands.  And then she casually tosses in the information that the best urine for dye vats comes from pre-pubescent boys.

Wait.  What?

There is no exploration of this rather astonishing fact, no discussion of why or when it comes from, or what culture made the claim.  Short of reading all her sources (some of which I’ve already read, the rest of which are already on my reading list), I can’t think of a way to explore or test the claim.

I certainly can’t google it.  My first though, as it often is, is “Ooh…I’ll look it up and see what google shakes out…” and then my mind contemplated the possibilities and quickly shut down.  It would not end well.

Bacchus, Peter Paul Rubens, 1640, oil on canvas

Bacchus, Peter Paul Rubens, 1640, oil on canvas

And then I realised that I already have a pretty awesome resource (and one that isn’t likely to result in the police showing up at my door if I ask “does the pee of prepubescent boys really make the best alkaline agent for dyeing?) at my fingertips: You, dear readers.

So, has anyone else heard this?  Know where it comes from?

And, are there any readers with the sort of scientific or medical training who might know if there is anything chemically different in the urine of young boys which would make it better for dyeing?  Is it more alkaline perhaps?  Or is this probably some weird folk-myth that doesn’t have any possible basis?  Or might it come from a culture that fed young boys different foods?  Would this affect urine enough to make it better for dyeing?

Some cultural health/body practices do have their basis in practical, realistic, facts, so I’m not completely writing little boy pee off as an essential ingredient of a beautifully blue cloak.

Ancient Hawaii was one of many cultures that secluded women while they were having their periods, and forbade them from preparing food.  While I don’t care for the dirty/punishment-from-God connotation that has sometimes come with the seclusion, on a practical level, it kinda makes sense.  Many women are in pain and a bit grumpy and emotional at that time.  There are certainly months where having my own private hut where I don’t have to deal with people and food gets brought to me seems like a good idea.

One can imagine ancient cultures going through the logical process of “Hmmm….every month around this time when we ask for sandwiches instead of making them she throws all the sandwich making implements at us and then sits down and cries.  Maybe we should tell her to take a few days off and go hang out in her own personal place…” and then after a few generations it becomes a socio-religious thing that women go off on their own at this time, whether or not they get caught by the emotional/crying/grumpy/sandwich-implement-hurling blues or not (because not all women do).

So, could it be the same with the pee of pre-pubescent boys?

Dyers?  Doctors?  Scientists?  Anyone brave enough to look it up in google books (I’m scared to try even that)?

UPDATE: There is tons of interesting information and useful links in the comments, plus some fascinating conjecture, but I do believe I have the answer.  I discussed this with the medicos in one of my sewing classes (my sewing classes are full of nurses, doctors and digital artists) and they instantly said “Oh, you use boy pee because it is more hygienic.”  Basically, thanks to their longer urethra, and the fact that it is less likely to touch other stuff as it comes out, male pee is less germy than girl pee, and thus, ironically, less smelly after time.  Add that to the young boys having less contaminants than men, and it makes perfect sense that little boy pee would be the preferred urine for dyeing.

They also took the opportunity to tell me that if I was ever desperate enough for moisture to need to drink pee, man-pee was a much better option than my own.  As you can imagine, I am even more disinclined to try pee-dying than pee-dyeing.

A couple of white sun-frocks to dream of summer in…

I’ve been so busy teaching and writing lately that I haven’t been taking any commissions, but when S. (remember her adorable yellow & nautical ’30s playsuits?) contacted me asking if I would make her a couple of sundresses from ’50s patterns in her collection, I just couldn’t say no.

S. is such a delight to work with, and I love her aesthetic, and the sundresses promised to be a fun, easy project.

They were finished a couple of weeks ago, but I’ve been too busy to blog about them, and they are both primarily white, so while they are too late in date to qualify for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, the white fortnight seemed an appropriate time to show them off.

I love both dresses and keep going back and forth over which is my favourite.  Is it the all-white frock (how I do love a good all-white frock!) with red sash and ric-rac trim?

Red & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

I mean, that stiff pleated skirt…the perky sash…

Red & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

The sleeveless bodice with its ‘necklace’ of ric-rac…

Red & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

It looks cute without the sash too!
Red & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

But the best part?  The hidden ric-rac hem!  Isn’t it cute?  I do love a good bit of hidden colour, and a fun finish.

Red & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

And as much as I love the red & white frock, I adore the second sundress, a belted affair in lavender and white.

Lavender & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

Isn’t the plain and patterned skirt divine?  I think its the cleverest thing ever and I’m going to use the technique to showcase some of my beautiful ’50s fabrics that I haven’t sewn up because I don’t have enough to make a full dress.

Lavender & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

And the ric-rac is just the perfect way to tie it all together.  I spent so much time finding ric-rac in the perfect shade of lavender for this dress!

Lavender & white 1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

So yes, fun, easy, very rewarding commission.  The only problem is that now I want to make exact replicas for me!

And for a fun update, here is S in her frocks enjoying an English summer:

1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

 

1950s sundress thedreamstress.com

1903 Chinoiserie Promenade dress – the skirt is done!

Well, thanks to Polly/Oliver, I’m still running three days late for HSF challenges, but my Chinoiserie skirt is done (done, done, done DONE!), and I swear this is the last time I’m late and my White challenge will be in before the deadline!

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

The Chinoiserie skirt has been a bit of a sewing rollercoaster.  It’s gone terribly well, and then well, terribly, and then terribly well, and then well, terribly.  Now that it’s done I think I’m pretty pleased with it.

Kinda unsure though.

So what went terribly well?  The double piping, as long as it was around moderate curves.  Just look at how tiny and neat it is here, even just pinned on:

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

And then sewed on properly:

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

It’s the perfect blend of my Chinese inspiration, and Western sewing in 1903 (though they might very well have done it exactly as it was done in China).

Unfortunately, when it came to apply the piping around the extremely sharp corners and curves of some of the front detailing, things went well, terribly.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

The one on the right isn’t as sharp and precise as I had hoped, but it isn’t terrible.  That blob on the left though?  Urgh.  Seriously!  What happened?  I’m not even sure – I had to hand sew those areas, I thought I’d done them very precisely, but once I’d sewn both lengths of piping, and pressed, I suddenly had a bulging blob of sewing goop that looked more like it was inspired by Ghostbusters than the mysteries of the East.

Luckily the other side of the front turned out much better, and it is near my hem, and the overall effect isn’t too bad, en masse.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

And even just pinned on, you get an idea of the effect of the pattern, and how it improves the fall of the skirt, giving it some necessary swish and bulk.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

The way it changed the way the skirt hangs is actually one of my favourite things about my decoration.  I always knew it would help give a little body and support, and act like cording does in a petticoat (the piping is, after all, essentially four lines of cording), but the effect is even better than I hoped.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

Also, the last two photos give the best impression of what the colour is really like.

In order to sew the applique on, I sewed the centre front join, pinned it on to the skirt, checked that it was exactly symmetrical, and then machine sewed the top edge on from front to back, stopping 6 inches from the centre back.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

I then machine sewed the bottom edge on all the long smooth points, getting as close as I could to the fancier cut-ins.

Then I checked, trimmed and sewed the centre back seam, pinned the last section in place, and machine sewed it.  Finally, I hand-sewed on the pesky cut-ins.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

Finis!  Hurrah!

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

Clearly I haven’t gotten to the top, but I could wear the skirt with a simple shirtwaist (Separates challenge perhaps?), and there will be a challenge later in the year that will be suitable for finishing up challenges.

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

The Challenge: #14  Eastern Influence

Fabric: 2.5 metres of plain weave delft blue wool with a slightly fulled finish ($8 from an op shop), 1 vintage silk & metal obi ($5), scraps of ivory silk-cotton (free – left over from another project)

Pattern:  My own, based on a pattern in the  Ladies Tailor Made section of The “Standard” Work on Cutting, 1900

Year: 1903

Notions:  27 metres of piping cord ($8), hem tape (50 cents), 9 hooks & loops (inherited).

How historically accurate is it? The design is not based on a specific historical precedent, though there were designers in the early 20th century using Chinese textiles for inspiration, so it’s plausible.  The construction is 85% accurate.  The hem isn’t (machine invisible hemming) and I’m not sure about the techniques I used to create my applique.  So 80% all up.

Hours to complete: 11.  Doing the applique properly would have taken another 15 or so, which makes me feel a lot better about it!

First worn: Not yet, I need to finish the bodice.

Total cost: NZ$21.50 (and that will cover the bodice as well – not bad!)

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

Looking at it now, in the warm glow of morning, I’m feeling quite a warm glow towards it.  The mistakes are so minor, and so near the hem, that they are unlikely to be noticed, and I’m going to experiment before doing the bodice, to make sure I can get the collar perfect.

And, of course, the most important question?  How does Felicity feel about it?

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

I think she approves!

1903 chinoiserie inspired promenade dress thedreamstress.com

Of course I approve.  It’s gorgeous, and it’s lovely scrummy warm wool.  Get over yourself Mommes and come give me a cuddle!