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Striped Inspiration

I was planning to do inspiration posts for each Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge in the fortnight running up to the challenge, but I realise that defeats the whole purpose of posting the challenges weeks ahead and giving people time to plan for the challenge.  Instead I’ve decided to do inspiration posts when I announce the next challenge (a full 16 weeks ahead). Of course, first I have to catch up on all the challenges that are already up!

So, over the next few weeks expect lots of pretty, pretty historical eye candy inspiration posts.

Today I’m starting with some gorgeous stripes to get you inspired for the upcoming Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge: Stripes (#6),  mostly because I already had the post written!

I think the important thing to remember about the Stripes challenge is that there are many ways to interpret stripes.  Some people have bowed out of the challenge because they don’t like stripes, but I think that’s just silly.  Stripes don’t need to be bold, big, black and white stripes.  They can be as subtle as the tiny self-striped silk in the sleeves and bodice of my 1813 Kashmiri dress, as simple as a striped ’20s Chanel sailor top.  They can be created with striped fabric, or by applying trim to create a striped effect.

The ancient Egyptians may not have gone in for patterned fabric, but their neighbors did.  This mural shows Caananites in brightly patterned, including striped, tunics bringing tribute to Egypt.

Men bearing tribute

Skipping ahead a millennia,  Parmigianino’s rosy cheeked young woman has both a fascinating striped headdress and what I think is a striped partlet -gorgeous and exotic.

Parmigianino- A Turkish Slave (aka, Portrait of a Young Woman) (ca. 1533)

Parmigianino- A Turkish Slave (aka, Portrait of a Young Woman) ca. 1533

Now, how about some fabulous 17th century stripes going every-which way (and isn’t her dog just darling?)?

Or some sweet fancy dress stripes from the early 18th century?

ca. 1720 Henrietta Hobart, The Hon. Mrs Howard, later Countess of Suffolk, in a masquerade dress, attributed to Thomas Gibson, Blickling Hall - Blickling, North Norfolk UK

ca. 1720 Henrietta Hobart, The Hon. Mrs Howard, later Countess of Suffolk, in a masquerade dress, attributed to Thomas Gibson, Blickling Hall – Blickling, North Norfolk UK

Rococo stripes are often paired with flowers arranged in the classic serpentine line, lending them an air of femininity and frivolity:

Robe a la francaise, ca. 1770’s, Digitalt Museum

Robe a la francaise, ca. 1770’s, Digitalt Museum

At the end of the 18th century the serpentine line of rococo gave way to the stripes and white severity of Neoclassicism – this charming jacket is a midpoint between the two:

“Macaroni” jacket and embroidered skirt, late 18th century, KCI

Striped jacket and embroidered skirt, late 18th century, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Another version of the Neoclassical stripe is seen on this late 18th century fashionista:

Portrait of a Portrait of Mme J L Germain , Marie-Gabrielle Capet, 1780s

Portrait of a Portrait of Mme J L Germain , Marie-Gabrielle Capet, 1780s

Of course, not every striped item has to be a full frock.  This bonnet with its trim stripes is just adorable:

Bonnet, Evening, ca. 1802, American, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bonnet, Evening, ca. 1802, American, silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Neoclassical stripes were soften with lace and trimmings as the 19th century progressed, but they are still quite bold and severe and striking in this frock:

The Duchesse d'Angoulême and the Hospital at Toulouse by Joseph Roques, 1815 or later

The Duchesse d’Angoulême and the Hospital at Toulouse by Joseph Roques, 1815 or later

I love the use of horizontal stripes in the mid-19th century.  It really emphasizes the width of the hoopskirts.

Morning dress, 1860-65, silk, American, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Morning dress, 1860-65, silk, American, Metropolitan Museum of Art

And look how beautiful the arrangement of stripes on this bodice is:

ca 1850’s hand-tinted daguerreotype portrait of a young woman posed in front of a cloud backdrop

ca 1850’s hand-tinted daguerreotype portrait of a young woman posed in front of a cloud backdrop

The Victorians knew how to do stripes, using them to full effect in 1880s bustles.  This frock manages to be both striking and subtle in its use of stripes:

Dress, ca. 1886, American, silk, metallic thread, beads, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Dress, ca. 1886, American, silk, metallic thread, beads, Metropolitan Museum of Art

If that’s a little too subtle for you, perhaps this one is bold enough:

Evening Dress, Jacques Doucet, 1890s, The Mint Museum

Evening Dress, Jacques Doucet, 1890s, The Mint Museum

 

For something a bit simpler, this teens jacket could easily be used in modern life, and the lavender dress cleverly creates its own stripes through the use of trim:

Day and sport dresses, 1916, US, the Delineator

Day and sport dresses, 1916, US, the Delineator

These 20s swimsuits use very modern and restrained stripes – the tops could be worn as simple singlets today.

Swimsuits, 1928

Swimsuits, 1928

What’s not to love about Hattie Carnegie’s amazing use of stripes in this ’30s ensemble.  Tres chic!

Striped evening ensemble (dress, belt, cape, slip) by Norman Norell for Hattie Carnegie, Inc., American, 1932, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Striped evening ensemble (dress, belt, cape, slip) by Norman Norell for Hattie Carnegie, Inc., American, 1932, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Finally, something from the very last year of eligibility.  These sandals are just fabulous, and I think they could be replicated with strips of suede and a pair of modern sandals with the right heel.

If that wasn’t enough striped inspiration for you, I have a whole pinterest page of striped loveliness to spark your imagination (just remember that the post 1938 stuff is not eligible for the HSF).

Panier-Along #2: Pocket slits and hoop channels

The Panier-Along

Welcome back to the Panier-Along (look, there is a button!  And it links to a Panier-Along page!).  Yesterday we cut out our panier pattern pieces – today let’s start sewing!

The first sewing step it an optional one.  Some historical paniers have slits at the top so that you can use the paniers as pockets (since wearing paniers and pockets can get a bit tricky).  If you don’t want pocket slits, you can skip this step and move halfway down the post to the next step.

First, mark a line 6″ down from the centre top of your 25″ wide panier outside piece.  This will be your slit to reach through.

Measuring down 6" from the centre top

Cut down this line:

Cutting down the panier pocket slit

Now, you need to finish the raw edges of the pocket slits.  My way of finishing pocket slits is based on historical examples, but if this method is too complicated you could just widen your slits a little so that they form narrow U shapes and bind the edges with bias tape.

To do it historically,  make a narrow hem down one side of the slit, tapering to nothing at the bottom of the slit.  I’ve done it by hand, but this can be done by machine as well.

Hemming the slit

A detail of the bottom:

A detail of the bottom

Do the same to the other side of the slit, and sew back and forth a couple of times at the bottom of the slit to strengthen it:

The bottom of the slit

Your finished slit will look like this:

Front:

From the right side:

Back:

Finished slit from the back

Then do the same to your other slit.

Now we need to re-inforce the bottom of the slit so that it doesn’t rip with wear and use.  First, cut a 1 1/4″ square from your scrap fabric:

A little square to reinforce the bottom of the slit

Fold the square in half diagonally, forming a triangle:

The square, folded in half diagonally

Press the raw edges of the triangle under it, and place the folded edge of the triangle along the bottom of your slit.  Sew it in place.  (and I’ll show you how-unbeautiful mine looks, so that you don’t feel bad about how yours looks, however it comes out).

The sewn-down triangle

The sewn-down triangle from the back

Do the same thing to the other slit:

One with triangle, one without

Both slits with reinforced triangles

Both with reinforcing triangles

Yay!  You now have two strong, historically accurate, functional pocket slits.  Or not, if you chose to skip this step.

Right, now let’s get to the sewing that isn’t optional: your hoop channels.

On the backs of the panier side pieces (the 25″ wide ones) mark points at  half an inch from the hem, 4 1/2″ from the hem, and 8 1/2″ from the hem.

Marking the hoop lines

Draw lines with chalk across your piece, connecting these points from edge to edge.  These will be the lines that your hoops will run along.

Panier hoop lines2

Using your twill tape, or strips of fabric with their edges turned under (making sure that either is wide enough to sew down and snugly slip your hooping/cane etc through, lay the a 26″ length of tape with it’s bottom edge along the top line and pin it down:

Pinning down your first tape

Turn the edges of the tape under at each end so that they are 1/2″ away from the cut edges:

The turned under tape

Sew your tape down along the line by hand or machine, taking care to make sure the ends are well tacked down:

Tacking down the ends securely

I like to do a bit of a Hudson Bay start and sew in a few inches on the top and bottom of the tape and then double check that my hooping fits in snugly, without being too tight and hard to insert:

Checking my hooping insertion

If that is all in order, continue sewing your entire length of tape on:

Tape one sewn down

Repeat with the middle tape, making sure the bottom edge of the tape is along the top of your chalk line:

Second length of hoop tape sewn down

Do the same with the bottom length of tape, making sure to leave a 1/2″ seam allowance below it.  And then do the same thing for the other panier side piece!

Detail of the sewn-down hoop tapes

Tomorrow I’m going to take a little break from the Panier-Along, and post some pretty, pretty inspiration for an upcoming Historical Sew-Fortnightly challenge, and then I’ll be back on Saturday with your next step.

Panier Along #1: Pattern pieces

Yay!  Hello!  Welcome to the Panier-Along!  Over the next two weeks I’ll be walking you through making 1770sish paniers.

To start with, check out the Materials List.

Now that you have all your materials sorted, let’s get the pattern figured out, and your fabric cut.

I’m using a lovely heavyweight linen in a sort of pinky-terracotta that was in my stash. It’s got some light fading, but is really ideal in terms of weight and the tightness of the weave: it will support the boning well without being too thick to pleat.

I know I said I’d be machine sewing, but linen is such a pleasure to hand-sew that I have changed my mind, and will be hand sewing it.

Pinky-terracota linen

The pattern pieces for the paniers look like this:

Panier pattern2

There are two of each (one for each side of the paniers), and they are laid out as I cut them from my 45″ wide  fabric.  The rectangles are pretty self explanatory, but here is how to draft the panier bottom:

Start with a 10″ pattern piece.  Measure up 6″ from the bottom left corner and make a mark.  Measure up 6″ from the corresponding corner, and make another mark on the right side.

10" square for the pattern piece

Then measure down 1/4″ from the centre top, and make a mark.

The 10" pattern piece for the panier bottom

Now, using a large plate (10 1/2″ across) draw a curve that connects the three points.

Drawing a curve with the plate

The curve

That curve will be the outside curve of your panier.  You may wish to smooth down the edges where the curve meets the square so the transition is a little smoother.

With the edges smoothed a bit

Measure along the curve from the bottom left point to the bottom right point, just to make sure it is the right length around.  It should be 25″ along the whole curve, just like your panier side piece.

Now, measure up 1 1/2″ from the centre bottom of the square.  Sketch a curve from the bottom left corner up to the point, and down to the bottom right corner.

The bottom curve of the bottom panier piece

This curve will fit around your hips, helping the paniers to stay closer to your body.

Now, cut out your pattern piece and label it so you know what it is.

1770s panier bottom piece

OK, hard part done!  Now you can cut out all your fabrics.

First, cut your side pieces, the piece that will have the boning inserted along it, two 25″ x 16″ rectangles.

Then cut your back piece, which will sit against your body.  They are two 11.5″ x 16″ rectangles

Cutting the two large rectangles

Then cut your bottom piece.  I did this by unfolding my lengthwise fabric fold, and refolding it horizontally, so it fits two curved bottom pieces.

Cutting the bottom pieces

Finally, cut the last two pieces, 3″ x 7″ rectangles which will form the channel that you slip the waist tape through.  Now you should have all these pieces:

Panier pattern 2

How easy was that?  Tomorrow I’ll show you how to cut and finish the slit for your pockets (this is an optional step), and the day after that how to measure and sew the boning channels.