Latest Posts

My vintage menswear patterns

Mr Dreamy can rarely be convinced to wear vintage styles, but I still like collecting vintage mens patterns, partly because they are useful for clients, partly because I want to teach classes on vintage menswear, and partly out of a hope that someday he will convert and become as enamored of vintage fashions as I am.

A lot of my vintage men’s patterns are from the 1970s, because the 70s was a great period for men’s patterns – incredibly well written and drafted, and easy to alter to other periods.  I do have some earlier patterns though, so I’ll focus on those today.

Like Butterick 3999, the only menwear pattern that I inherited from my Grandma.  I can just imagine Grandpa wearing this shirt.  I don’t think he played golf though.

Butterick 3999 - '50s sports shirt

Butterick 3999 – ’50s sports shirt

Butterick 3999 - sports shirt with convertible collar

Butterick 3999 – sports shirt with convertible collar

Academy 2174 is the (slightly earlier, or well behind the times) New Zealand version of the sports shirt.  I love how dapper the men are, in a sort of really ugly Clark Gable way.

Academy 2174 - Sports shirt with long or short sleeves

Academy 2174 – Sports shirt with long or short sleeves

Keeping things casual is Weigel’s 1590, with beach shorts, summer shirt, and bathers.  Yep, that pattern is never going to entice Mr D!

Weigels 1590 - beach shorts, shirt and bathers

Weigels 1590 – beach shorts, shirt and bathers

Weigels 1590 - beach shorts, shirt and bathers

Weigels 1590 – beach shorts, shirt and bathers

If that is too much skin to show, how about Academy 4601, with its men’s track suit?  I wonder if this pattern is in any way linked to the popularity of running in New Zealand in the ’50s and ’60s, when NZ was top of the world in running?

Academy 4601- Men's track suit

Academy 4601- Men’s track suit

If the beach and running aren’t your thing, how about the woods?  Simplicity 3074 offers both what it blandly describes as a ‘men’s jacket’ (I’d call it a bomber jacket) and a lumberjack jacket!

Simplicity 3074 - bomber jacket and lumberjack jacket

Simplicity 3074 – bomber jacket and lumberjack jacket

Simplicity 3074 - bomber jacket and lumberjack jacket

Simplicity 3074 – bomber jacket and lumberjack jacket

I also have a more formal men’s jacket pattern from the ’50s, in the form of Simplicity 4107, which also has the option of a snazzy vest.

Simplicity 4107 - '50s mens jacket and vest

Simplicity 4107 – ’50s mens jacket and vest

Oh, and it’s a ‘Father and Son Fashion’, so you can make your boy one to match!

Simplicity 4107 - '50s mens jacket and vest

Simplicity 4107 – ’50s mens jacket and vest

The rest of my ’40s & ’50s mens patterns are all sleepwear.  I suspect that many women found sewing most menswear daunting, so left that up to the professionals, but felt pyjamas were within their skill set, hence the abundance of pyjama patterns (tangent: When did we stop spelling them pyjamas? I’ve always spelled them pyjamas, and only recently discovered via a google search for pyjama inspiration that pretty much no-one else does.  The world lost a bit of piquancy when it replaced that ‘y’ with a bland a.  Bring back the y!)

I love Home Journal 9744, mostly because the handsome fellow on the cover with his turkish towel reminds me off a cross between Inspector Poirot and Nick Charles.  You just know that someone has been murdered just off the edge of the pattern, and he’s off to solve the mystery!

Home Journal 9744 - mens pyjamas

Home Journal 9744 – mens pyjamas

The models on Academy 2042 aren’t nearly as worldly, nor are their towels as posh.  The toothbrush is a nice touch though!

Academy 2042 - boys pajamas

Academy 2042 – boys pajamas (or pyjamas)

A fun little quirk of this pattern is that no-where on the pattern envelope, or in the directions, does it use the word pajamas or pyjamas – the directions refer to ‘top’ and ‘trousers’ and the envelope is completely silent as to what is being sewn.  The pattern pieces themselves are unmarked.  That’s one was to avoid the question!

Rate the Dress: Pierre Balmain does ostrich feathers

Last week most of you loved the 1840s gown remade from 1740s fabric – the colour, the frugality, and the nod to 18th century details all struck a chord with you, and the dress came in an impressive 8.9 out of 10.  Personally, while I thought the fabric and colour divine, and the silhouette lovely, the white detailing was too stark and cartoon like for my taste, and my score wouldn’t have been nearly so high, but that’s alright: different opinions are what make the world interesting!

I couldn’t find another UFO garment to show you for this week’s Rate the Dress, so instead I’m showing you a UFRTD – I started this Rate the Dress, back when I was making Carolyn’s wedding dress and had ostrich feathers on the mind.  Somehow it was never the right time to post it, and so it lingered as a draft.  Time to have one less draft!

Feathered frocks have had mixed reviews in the past.  Victorian marabou was popular in white, not so much in teal.  Feather prints did OK, but not fabulously.  Will this dress raise or lower the total score?

Rate the Dress on a scale of 1 to 10

Happiness is historical accuracy (intentional or not)

Remember how I said that the fabric for the 1813 Kashmiri dress wasn’t quite accurate?

Well, I’ve done some more research, and it turns out it is more accurate than I thought.

My paisley bordered wool twill

My paisley bordered wool twill

First, whilst I still can’t find an image of a dress made from a Kashmiri shawl that is darker than the cobalt blue of Salome’s  (and I still think that one is at least half fantasy, though there are extent cobalt blue shawls, and at least one extent shawl-inspired dress in cobalt blue), I have managed to find an extent paisley shawl that is black:

It’s a European shawl in silk and cotton rather than a Kashmiri shawl in cashmere, and it’s from a few years older than my dress, but where there is one, there might have been more.

And the border?  Well, my double border still doesn’t match any images of dresses made from paisley shawls or extent examples of dresses made from paisley shawls, but there are a number of extent shawls with very similar borders:

Shawl, Kashmir, early 19th century, Woven cashmere, V&A

Shawl, Kashmir, early 19th century, Woven cashmere, V&A

If only my wool had come in yellow rather than grey!

So all in all, I’m pleased that everything is even more plausible than I had thought!