The Dreamstress

Apparently I’m on a pink and stripey kick, because this week’s Rate the Dress, like last week’s Rate the Dress, is pink and stripey.  Will you like it better?  Or will it fare even worse?

Last Week: a striped  evening dress from the very end of the crinoline era

An interesting mix of comments on last week’s 1869 dress.  Generally you liked the bias stripes, and often found yourself liking the dress more than you thought you should: somehow it was more than the sum of its parts.

I agree with all the commenters who felt it was somehow theatrical or costume-y.  It would be perfect on stage, or even on screen: you’d instantly know so much about the character wearing it!  Is it time to revive the big cheerful historical costume musical?  The Mary Poppins sequel tried!

The Total: 7.1 out of 10

Not a fabulous rating – we’d probably all love it in glorious technicolour, but as an actual ballgown it was a little lacking.

This week: An 1890s reception gown in pink and black

The overriding reaction to last week’s Rate the Dress is that it felt quite theatrical.  I realised that my original pick for this week was also possibly more costume-y than everyday worthy, so I decided I should choose something a little more restrained.

Hard as it may be to believe, this pale pink and black dress with its bias stripes and big sleeves is very restrained compared to what I was planning to show you!

Dress, 1893, Duboys, Paris, silk, French, Fashion Museum Bath

This early 1890s ensemble was probably a reception dress.  The high neck and long sleeves indicate it would have been for a daytime event, but the light coloured silk of the base fabric and the train suggests it was intended for formal indoor wear only.

Dress, 1893, Duboys, Paris, silk, French, Fashion Museum Bath

I’ve looked and looked, and can’t quite figure out if the stripes are woven in, or applied on.  It’s also possible that they are woven in, but have been very carefully cut out and appliqued on on the bodice.  If you look closely you can see tiny pearl beads framing the stripes on the bodice.  Added embellishment, or a clever way to hide appliqued edges?

Dress, 1893, Duboys, Paris, silk, French, Fashion Museum Bath

What do you think of this dress?  Do you like the combination of the subtle pink and the bold stripes?  Is the way the stripes are used to create shape appealing?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.

Do you know how some weeks are great, and some weeks you start out feeling like you’ve been punched, and just doing the absolute minimum is all you can manage?  Yeah, this was one of the latter.

And just when it looked like it was getting better, we found out that an Australian tourist (we have a travel bubble with Australia) who went everywhere in Wellington last weekend had Covid, so may have infected people…including people I know.

So I’ve got so much sewing done this week, because I sew when I’m stressed, but not much writing, because words are hard when my brain hurts.  But I’m now so pleased about all the sewing I’ve got done that I can write!  So we have blogging!

And I can’t wait to show you the sewing I’ve finished!

Last Week:  a 1910s take on the tea gown

A lot of you really loved last week’s tea gown, which didn’t surprise me.  It’s really nice to see something for an older woman, and something that’s a little less constricting than many historical fashions.

A few raters, however, just weren’t sure about the colours, or how easy it would actually be to wear.

It’s true that I wouldn’t want to sweep a floor or make a cake while wearing it, but that wasn’t it’s purpose!  It was definitely a gown for looking glamorous while the servants did the work, but at least it was a comfortable gown as long as you didn’t have to do any work!

The Total: 8 out of 10

Not a bad total for a dress that one rater only rated 2/10!

This week: An evening dress from the very end of the crinoline era

I’ve been researching a 1910s hem technique which uses fabric (usually striped) cut on the bias for a decorative finish, so I couldn’t resist choosing this dress, with its bias hem ruffle, for this week’s Rate the Dress:

Evening dress, 1869, Les Arts Decoratifs

It’s unclear if the colours of the fabric have faded and changed over time, or if the contrast between the cool purple-pink of the main striped fabric, and the warm orange-coral of the trim, are intentional.  The 1860s were an era of bold colour choices, so it’s not impossible that the clash is intentional.

Evening dress, 1869, Les Arts Decoratifs

This dress is a great example of the crinoline era transitioning in to the first bustle era, not only in its silhouette, but also in its cut and trim.

The berthe effect bodice looks back to earlier in the decade, as does the fringe trimming.  The hem treatment, on the other hand, anticipates the elaborate skirt trimmings that would characterise 1870s and 80s fashions.  The bodice has points front and back, rather than the newly fashionable square waistline, but the bold buttons would have been a very on-trend touch.

Evening dress, 1869, Les Arts Decoratifs

What do you think of this dress with combines bright colours, stripes, and old and new fashion elements?  Would it have been an attractive addition to the ballrooms of the time?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

A reminder about rating — feel free to be critical if you don’t like a thing, but make sure that your comments aren’t actually insulting to those who do like a garment.  Phrase criticism as your opinion, rather than a flat fact. Our different tastes are what make Rate the Dress so interesting.  It’s no fun when a comment implies that anyone who doesn’t agree with it, or who would wear a garment, is totally lacking in taste.

As usual, nothing more complicated than a .5.  I also hugely appreciate it if you only do one rating, and set it on a line at the very end of your comment.