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Open sewing*

Do you ever get stuck with your sewing?

Just get to a place where you can’t figure out how to set in those sleeves, or why the waist just won’t sit right, or how to do bound buttonholes or a side zip?

Or you’re trying to turn a design into a reality, and can’t figure out how many gores the skirt should have (or should you cut it as a circle?), or if the jacket needs flat lining or not, or if it will work in a tissue, or if you really should buy a crepe chiffon after all?

I do this all the time.  It used to be about not knowing the techniques, but now it’s about knowing too much – getting stuck in my head because there are so many options.

The Waterlily dress, circa 2002

The solution to this is a sewing community.  These days I am indebted to you, dear readers, to local sewing friends like Mrs C and the Baha’i seamstresses, to the fashion experts at Massey university, and to wider sewing-blogging friends like Steph.  They let me bounce ideas off them, and bounce ideas in return, and we share tips and tricks and all learn from each other.  And that’s fabulous.

Most often though, I still go back to my original sewing resources – to the amazing drapers and tailors and seamstresses that all worked, at one time or another, in a little costume shop in Oakland California, and to the wonderful sewers and textile lovers I grew up with in Hawaii.

Mid-Victorian capes & jackets & bonnets, 2004

I was so privileged with my early sewing, and my ‘real’ in-depth training during university, to have such a great group of people to draw on, and to teach me.  I think the most important thing that shaped my sewing, and my ability to create, is that I quickly got to move beyond basic classes to doing my own thing. I got to work on whatever I was interested in, but every time I got stuck, there was someone there to look at it, to make suggestions, to provide resources and inspiration.

That, really, is what has made me as a seamstress, and has given me the confidence to try things, to go way beyond basic patterns and sewing standards.  And that’s fabulous.

The 'Gilded Lily', circa 2004

I think this sort of training and support is so important.  It doesn’t matter what level your sewing is – having someone to help and teach you outside of a really formal sewing class is invaluable.

This is why I’m offering ‘Open Sewing‘ as one of my sessions at Made Marion.

It’s a time for any sewer, of any level, to have me at their disposal for whatever project they are working on.

I’m hoping for absolute beginners who just want to learn at their own pace, and with the patterns and ideas that interest them most, for very advanced sewers working on elaborate tailored jackets, for crazy costumers doing historical garments and fantastical engineered things.  It gives me a space to teach things that there isn’t enough demand for to do an entire class on, but which someone wants to learn.

What do you think?  How did you learn to sew?  Formal classes?  A family member?  Self taught from books and the internet?  How did you make the jump from set patterns and simply following instructions to making whatever you could imagine?  Are you still waiting to take that jump?

And (most exciting of all!), have some of you already lined up the projects you are bringing to get me to help with?

'Marina' circa 2004

*this post is illustrated with photos of my early-ish sewing that are only tangentially related to the post, but which I thought you might find fun.

 

Rate the Dress – Vignon’s garland dress of 1878 or 79

The ratings for last week’s 19teens party dress started out so well, and then the ratings plummeted.  The dress naysayers didn’t like the colour and the garland, and felt the dress was too youthful, and even those who liked the dress complained that it was too flat and hard to visualise on a person and had niggling doubts about the shape of the garland on the bodice.  Thanks to the first flush of approving comments, the dress came in at a 6.9 out of 10.

OK!  Point taken!  This week’s garment is fully three dimensional.  But….

…it still has a garland.  I thought I’d challenge your lei prejudice with another placement and treatment of the idea.

Dinner dress, Mon. Vignon, French, 1878-79, silk and cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

This dinner dress by Mon. Vignon from the Metropolitan Museum of Art combines restraint to the point of severity with a touch of delicate naturalism in the form of the embroidered garland that drapes down the bodice and wraps around the skirt.

Dinner dress, Mon. Vignon, French, 1878-79, silk and cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

What do you think?  Are garlands just a no go?  Is the contrast between the rest of the dress and the flowers too stark?

Dinner dress (detail), Mon. Vignon, French, 1878-9, silk and cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

What about the colours?  They are a far cry from the girlish pink that some found objectionable last week.  But has this dress swung too far the other way, and become boring and dark and restrained?

Dinner dress, Mon. Vignon, French, 1878-9, silk and cotton, Metropolitan Museum of Art

So, what do you think?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10.

Hats for the woman of 50, 1911

This article from the Girl’s Own Paper, Dec 1911, just cracks me up.  How could it not!

I’m sure the “Looking good at any age” and “Dressing for your age” articles in modern fashion magazines will be equally hilarious, if not more so, in a century

Girls Own Paper, Dec 1911

Clearly the hat fashion for ‘mature’ women in 1911 was a large, square turban-toque style.

The allover violets is quite fetching, as is the centre one

I wonder exactly what made these suitable for a woman of 50 (and presumable onward, based on the mention of ‘elderly’ in one caption).  Was it just about the shape being considered properly staid, conservative and modest?  Or was the shape thought to be more flattering?

Hats for middle aged women, and elderly women

Certainly these hats all match the look that Queen Mary was famous for in the latter half of her life.  And who was a better guide to respectable taste than the Queen?

The hat in the centre really isn't helping with the giggle factor

What do you think?  As a lady of 50 would you wear those hats?  Does the whole presentation of the article amuse you just a little?  And which is your favourite?  (Bags on the toque in the upper-right most corner!)