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The quick, easy, and brilliant, underbust corset

Published by The Dreamstress

Were you guys getting bored of the post about my corset class in Melbourne being at the top of the blog?  I was!

Be ready to be slightly bored by this post: it’s going to be sticky for the next four days (so scroll down for new content).

But I’m not bored by the idea of the class – I’m super excited about it!  So just in cased you missed it:

I’ll be teaching a corset making workshop at Melbourne’s fabulous craft lounge,  Thread Den  on Friday the 6th of April!  To read more about the course, check out  Thread Den’s class description, and then rush over and  book it.

When I mentioned that I was teaching a one-day corset class, a number of you commented on how little time that is to make a corset.  And that’s true!  Which is why I’m so excited about this class, and so proud of myself.

For over two years I’ve been working on a corset pattern and construction method that can be made up quickly, successfully adapted to a whole range of body types, and taught to those with no experience in historical sewing and corsetmaking.

The hot pink sateen underbust corset

Some of my corsets take over 25 hours to construct, multiple fitting sessions, and lots and lots of hand-sewing.  Most clients can’t afford them, and the construction techniques are impractical to teach.  Thus the quest for a quick, affordable, teachable corset.

Hot pink sateen, curlicue lining

The corset in these pictures is one of the many prototypes I’ve worked on in developing this corset.

Multiple boning channels, hot pink topstitching

To develop my sewable in under 5, teachable in 8 corset, I’ve looked at and tried all the different methods of corsetmaking that are used commercially today, as well as historical methods. I’ve even played with a few innovations that I’ve never seen discussed in any book or pattern, but I’m sure other people must have hit upon.

Lacing grommets between bones

I’ve tried some things that worked really well, and those have gone into the ‘keep’ pile.

And I’ve tried some things that well, really, just weren’t that fab.  And my students and clients will be benefiting from those trials too!

The corset shaping

I’ve made underbust corsets over and over again, checking fitting, checking boning, checking binding, and checking my time.

Back lacing

Now I’m finally at a place where I am confident in teaching the corset, and in offering it to clients!

The lining - Mrs C let me steal the fabric from her stash. Awwww...

 

Rate the Dress: Gentleman in Red, 1760s

Published by The Dreamstress

Last week’s 1840s plaid-ish dress was like a woman who is technically not the least bit beautiful, but who is so clever and witty with her looks that she tricks people into thinking she is more attractive than her more classically arranged sisters.  The illusion divided you into those who were completely taken in by the subterfudge, those who saw it and admired her more for it, those who looked straight for the true aesthetic and missed the wit altogether, and those who saw and dismissed the clever screen and cast your vote for the academically prescribed aesthetic.  Which is right?  All of them, and none of them!  They are what make the world interesting.  And together mush all the sharp ups and downs of the ratings into a respectable but not exactly brilliant 6.9 out of 10.

Last week one of the main complaints from the latter two camps was that the colours of the dress were too dull.

I hope this is bright enough for you.

Edward Howard by Pompeo Batoni, 1766, Victoria & Albert Museum

Celebrated Italian painter Pompeo Batoni depicts Edward Howard, a young British nobleman on his grand tour, in a suit of red, with more red, and red, in red, and then some red over that, with red.  And then just a little bit of gold, and maybe the tiniest bit of black and white.  And a dog.

What do you think? Is Edward’s outfit the epitome of elegance, or is he the mid-18th century version of a young man going through his ‘cap on backwards, jeans halfway down his bum’ phase (do guys still do that?  Or is the new sartorially dreadful episode for young men when they don skinny jeans and paper thin T-shirts with deep necklines?)?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Early 1950s fashions and fabrics in Japan, Part 4 of 5

Published by The Dreamstress

I’ve been having so much fun showing you these images.   I love all your comments about the fashions, and the discussions we have had about Japanese society in the post war era.

Ready for some more adorable early 50s fashions for women and children?

This section of designs is all on paper that is quite yellowed and acidic with age.  It’s really quite interesting how the paper throughout the booklet is different.

First, some kids hats.  I just love that these were necessary enough to be included in the pattern book!

Beanies and bonnets for little ones

And then, some fashions for boys and girls:

Kiddie clothes with cute pockets

D'awwww! Look at the duck applique! And the dress on the far right is a junior version of one I showed you in part 2

And back to adult clothes:

Meh. Not very exciting

Junior dresses perhaps? Fabulous necklines!

I really like this artist’s style.  The women are so sweet, and reasonably anatomically probable.

The dresses on the right and left are really me. I've never gotten into the waistcoat bodice style in the middle though.

Oooh...that stripey one!

This artist also gives a lovely sense of life and action to his sketches:

Oh, the one on the far right! Happiness!

I love the frock of the girl with the shopping basket. And the big checks

And finally, a few more children’s frocks:

Such sweet, charming details

Next week Monda I’ll show you the very last one.