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Rate the dress: plaid in 1840

Last week’s St Patrick’s themed dress elicited some strong reactions.  Some love, some loathing, and a lot of “Well, the skirt is great, but that bodice…ewww” and “I love the bodice…but the skirt is just OTT.”  The dress needed to be cut in half!  The divided opinions cut the rating to 7.4 out of 10 – not quite a pot of gold, but at least the shine didn’t completely disappear like leprechaun gold.

This week I’m leaving behind naturalism and historicism, and looking at geometry, and cutting edge design.

Well, cutting edge for 1840:

Afternoon dress of plaid silk, American, about 1840, MFA Boston, 51.473

Afternoon dress of plaid silk, American, about 1840, MFA Boston, 51.473

The skirt pleating, the bias cutting of the bodice, the elaborate pleated bertha, the wrapped sleeves, the buttons: every element of the dress shows off the distinctively unusual eggplant, mallard blue and mustard plaid.

What do you think?  Does the unusual almost-plaid work?  Does the drape of the dress work?  Or is it all just a bit too weird and strange and experiemental?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

Early 1950s fashions and fabrics in Japan, Part 3 of 5

More cute women’s and children’s fashions from my early ’50s Japanese pattern book.

This series of pages is all in boring black and white , but I hope you will still find them interesting.

Cute kiddie dresses, and mommy dresses for running after the kiddies

Summer dresses. Love the polka dot sash!

I don't think there is a boy alive who could live those ruffled rompers down

I might not be the right age, but I am all about that tartan skirt and pussy bow!

I am alarmed that the lady on the far right has a waist narrower than her neck

They did the best pockets in the early 50s

These next few pages are the only adults in the whole book who look remotely Japanese:

The coat dress! And the stripey one!

Those pockets! And the shawl collar! And the boat neck!

So sweet!

OK, now the little girls have creepy waists

And there aren’t just dress patterns!  There are hat patterns!

Cute little hats and big romantic hats

 

 

The 1950s ‘Mad, Bad & Dangerously Green’ Shorts

I love green, and it’s St Patrick’s week, and I’ve been sewing more for me, so of course I have something green to show you this week.  And it’s pretty awesomely green.  Mad, Bad, and Dangerously Green even.  Are you ready?

Aren’t they fabulous!?!  Do you love them?  I love them!

OK, the story:

The Mad:    Have you seen the print?  I can’t believe I have grass green  and  mustard  and  vermillion  and  aqua  and  mint  and  white shorts covered with bright spots  and  birds.  I’m usually pretty restrained in my fabric and clothes.  And, despite all this, I  like  them.  Actually, I  love  them!  (Have I mentioned that before?)

The Bad:  OK, so the fabric was ridiculously expensive.  Very, very naughty of me.  I saw this fabric, along with the fabric I used in my “Love at First Flight” Dress while in Australia, and I  had  to have it.    But what on earth could I make with bright grass green birdie and spottie fabric?  How about the least likely thing possible: shorts?  Steph, who is braver than I, convinced me that I wasn’t completely mad, and I went with it.

The other bad is that my camera croaked taking photos of the construction (just before I was about to go do a photoshoot on the perfect late summer day!), so I had to run around, research a new camera, fork out for a new camera, and then the weather crapped in, and I had to wait a day and a half for more good weather.

And the weather wasn’t that good after all – despite the sun, there was a cold wind (that infamous summertime southerly) blowing, and Mr D was wearing a wool coat and jeans and complaining about how cold he was, while shooting me, in this:

And the  Dangerously Green  should be self explanatory 😉

So what kind of shorts do you make with mad, bad, dangerously green fabric?  I looked around for inspiration, and found a bunch of images of early 1950s shorts.  I liked the clean styling, the high waistbands that flattered the waist and showed off the hips, and the clever little details, like waistbands with split fronts and cord ties.  So cute!

Shorts inspiration from the 1950 Sears Catalogue

That’s what I wanted.  So I rummaged around in my patterns, found McCall’s 4687, a 1970s pattern with a basic pants patterns, altered it for shorts, altered the waistband for the split front, and there I was.

They are pretty close aren’t they!  You’d hardly know that I started with this pattern:

McCall's 4687

The shorts went together really quickly, even though I altered every single seam.  It’s just such a basic, easy, well cut pattern.

I’m super happy with the fit – they are super comfortable, unfussy, and flattering.  The only two things I am not happy with are the waistband and its fold issue, and the lack of pockets.  I know, I know!  I’m the queen of pockets, but I really didn’t want to mess this fabric up, so I played it safe.  I guess I could go back in and add some side pockets, or sew on patch pockets, or set in little front welt pockets.

Just the facts, Ma’am:

Fabric:  1.5m of  Echino by Kokka ‘Bon Bon’ cotton linen blend.

Pattern:  S1970s McCall’s 4687 pants with LOTS of alterations.  Basically I altered everything.

Year:    2012 does 1950 with a 1970s pattern.

Notions:  Invisible zip, 3 hooks and eyes, white cotton cording, yellow bias binding.

Hours:  3 hours (+ the half an hour to go to my local sewing shop to get a zipper which didn’t actually match after all)

Will you make this again?  Yes!  I love these shorts!  I’m taking them with me to OZ in April and home to Hawaii in June (spoilers).  It’s such a great, simple pattern

Any changes?  The waistband is a little soft, and does fold down a bit at the centre front.  It needs more interfacing, and maybe even collar stays.

Total cost:  Erm.  Somewhere around NZ$45 (US$35ish).  I spend more on the fabric than I have spent on any other fabric,  ever.  And since my stash is 80% silk, that says a lot.

And the inside?:  French seams & sewn-back seam edges, bias bound hems and waistband.  Little bitty white hooks with hand-worked hook bars to fasten.

The inside of these shorts makes me soooo happy!

So does the outside!

Sewing win all around!  Green is definitely a lucky colour!