Latest Posts

White Zombie: on set

Being on set for White Zombie was fascinating.  I have tons of theatre experience: I’ve costume and dressing for ballets and operas and plays and other live performances, but this was the first film I’ve worked on.

It was pretty much what I expected in most cases, but fabulous.

Elizabeth is fabulously beautiful

I expected that there would be moments of rushed panic (“can you just take in the lapels 3/4″ before the next shot?”) and lots of time sitting around waiting to be needed.

I make an on-set adjustment to Emile's pants

I gathered that unlike a stage play, there wouldn’t be an absolute schedule – the order in which scenes were shot got rearranged a little to suit makeup and hair, and if we ran ahead or behind schedule we just did the next thing, or tried to prep for the next.  With a play you have to start at a certain time!

Clair touches up Elisabeth's makeup

What I didn’t really realise was how much time lighting would take.  That was really the most time consuming thing of the whole day – more time was spent on it than actually shooting.  We would shoot one scene and then sit around for 30 minutes while the lighting people worked frantically to get everything just right for the next one.  My hats go off to them – they were really on call all day!

E & E practice a scene while crew check camera angles and mark choreography points

The interesting thing about the music video is that it was shot entirely against a green screen – no sets except for a staircase for Elisabeth/Madge to run down.

Elizabeth runs down the stairs for the 37th time

The fabulous thing was camaraderie of everyone on set, and how enthusiastic they were about the project.  I’ve worked with some great teams, but this one was something special.  You could tell everyone was there for the sake of the idea, and for PorcelainToy.  I was so privileged to be part of the team, to work with Andrew Armitage, the director, and with Elisabeth and Emile de la Ray of PorcelainToy, with Claire of The Vanity Case who did hair and makeup, and with the dozen and a half other people who made technical magic happen.

Technical fabulosity surrounding Elizabeth

The other fabulous thing is that we were allowed to take photos on set – very rare, and super lovely, because it means I get to show you just a little bit of what we did.  My photos don’t even begin to convey how amazing it was, and how amazing the finished product is going to be though!

Emile moves to rescue Elizabeth from the 'cliff' edge

And the final fabulous thing was the amazing caterer who fed us gorgeous food and even baked fresh bread and bagels on site.  Mmmmm….bagels….!

Yummy lunch in the sunshine - in costume!

Tomorrow: glamorous photoshoots!

 

Rate the dress: from zombies to jesters in 1932

Last week you found the yellow and pink 1780s ensemble just a bit…uninteresting.  It rated a lackluster 6.6 out of 10.  This week is my 100th Rate the Dress, and I definitely want to give you something that isn’t boring and uninteresting.

Because I’ve been working on the PorcelainToy White Zombie 1932 inspired frock and music video I thought it would be nice to do a 1932 rate the dress.  And then I went looking for 1932 dresses to show you, and you know what?  Most of them are pretty, but really boring.  But I finally found one that I think is really interesting.  I hope you will think so too!

Evening dress, ca 1932, Jessie Franklin Turner, Metropolitan Museum of Art

Silk evening dress, ca 1932, Jessie Franklin Turner, Met

Is this harlequin inspired frock from the Met interesting?  What about pretty?  Does it rock your world as as example of art deco fashion design, or leave you unamused?

Rate the Dress on a Scale of 1 to 10

White Zombie dress construction

This is how I made a 1920s-does-medieval shift for the White Zombie inspired PorcelainToy music video.

Elizabeth de la Ray in my 'White Zombie' dress

First, I watched White Zombie literally two dozen times, analyzing how Madge’s dress was constructed.

This is what I noted:

Under-shift and sleeve edges, bead belt

The dress is made of chiffon, almost certainly silk.  It is worn over a satin shift/underdress cut straight across the chest, with thin straps over the shoulders.  In some scenes Madge appears to be wearing a different underdress, one with a v-neckline.  This one one of dozens of continuity problems with the outfit.

The dress has wide rectangular sleeve panels attached at a drop shoulder.  The sleeves are bound with wide satin edging (note arrow).

The front of the dress is quite slim, but the back of the dress is extremely full, and must have gores set into it.

Super full back skirt, and sleeve detail

The wide rectangular sleeves have little cut in points indicated in red above.  This means the panels are long rectangles with a ) scoop cut out of the middle, and the middle of the scoop sits on the shoulders.

This is my shift without the sleeves shown on.

Slim front, full back

My gown has two major differences from the original:

The first change is the undergown neckline.  I cut the undergown with the same neckline as the chiffon over-layer.  This helped with fitting, and with getting the neckline to fall right without warping.  Elisabeth is also bustier than Madge, so more coverage allowed for more support.

The armholes, all ready for the sleeves to be sewn on.

The second change has to do with the sleeves, and the super wide sleeve panels with curves cut out. Due to fabric sourcing issues (I couldn’t find anyone, in NZ or overseas, who could get me a full 18 metres of white silk chiffon in time for the shoot – so I had to make do with 11) I had to cut my fabric panels in half, and didn’t have wide enough fabric to cut out the scoops.

And yes, the overdress takes a full 11 metres of 45″ wide chiffon!  Most of the fabric is in the sleeves, and it the back gore, which is massive.

Metres and metres of back gore

On Wednesday I’ll tell you about what it’s like to be on a film set, and on Thursday I’ll show you a bunch of amazing photos from a shoot I did with Elisabeth in the dress, but first we have ‘Rate the Dress’.