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Historical costuming monkey business

I’ve been watching White Zombie, the original ‘living dead’ film. Made in 1932 on a shoestring budget, it starred the newly famous Bela Lugosi as the zombie master and Madge Bellamy as the titular ‘white zombie’ who “filled his every desire” according to the movie tagline.

Yes, this was definitely a pre-code film!

Madge wears a series of fabulous ensembles: a tropical appropriate traveling outfit, a to-die-for wedding dress (pun intended), a quaintly old-fashioned frock, and a trailing 1930s does medieval shroud.

The quaintly old-fashioned frock caught my attention. It looked so 17th century. I loved the idea of a 17th century inspired early 1930s dress. So I went looking for images of it. I found these:

Madge as Madeleine is fawned over by Bela as Murder and Cawthorn as Beaumont

Isn’t that very 1920s does mid 17th century?  The sleeves, the bows, the metal lace trim?  I wonder what the full view looks like?

It's so 17th century!

How charming!  How quaint!  I had no idea that the 17th century was such a big influence in the 1920s!

But wait…what’s this?

Huh. Same dress. Same actress. But why is she wearing a wig?

That’s Madge Bellamy all right.  And that’s definitely the same dress, just with a few tweaks.  But that is the wrong year.  And the wrong film.

Yep.  That is a publicity picture for an earlier Bellamy film: 1922’s Lorna Doone, which is set in the 17th century.

Man, I knew that White Zombie was filmed on the slimmest of budgets, and that movie studios re-use costumes all the time, but re-using a dress that the actress wore in a costume drama a decade earlier for a film set in modern times is pretty desperate!

I wonder how it happened?  Did Madge get to keep the dress, and did she bring it out when they needed something a bit out-of-time and romantic for the heroine to wear?  Or did the costumers go rummaging through the films costume shop looking for things that fit Madge and decide this was the only possibility?

Grandeur & Frivolity – the 1770s suit

I’m pretty happy with my 1770’s man’s suit, especially as it is my first real go at 18th century menswear, but I do still want to make some tweaks to it.

Even so, I was quite pleased with how it looked at the Grandeur & Frivolity talk.  The model certainly helped: Daniil carried off  sky blue satin, wig, stockings and bows with all the poise and hauteur of a proper French courtier.

Daniil enjoys his armchair as I discuss Clarissa's dress

The duchesse silk satin creased something awful from being sat on.  I’m not sure how I feel about that.  Would 18th century silks crease like that?

Discussing the back and side vents that made wearing a sword possible

Discussing the back and side vents that made wearing a sword possible

Look at that posture!

I love how Daniil is in blue, and all the girls are in warms and neutrals

The glasses aren't totally historical, but I think models should see!

Sigh. Creases. But beautiful pleats.

Daniil and Chiara are good friends, so we got them to pose together after the talk.  The outfits may be over 100 years apart, but they sure look gorgeous together!

I have no idea what is going on here

Gorgeous!

Discussing shoes, and shoe bows

The 18th century man’s suit: fabric and trims

I planned and made my 18th century mans suit redux in just a few days, so I had to scrounge in my stash and use whatever I had on hand.

For the jacket, I used a fabulous sky blue duchesse silk satin which I picked up at the same time as the beige satin which I dyed for Ninon’s dress:

Delicious duchesse silk satin

Unfortunately, I forgot that I had a specific project in mind for the sky blue fabric, and now I’m grumpy with myself for using it.  However, Daniil is probably very grateful that I didn’t use my other option, which was a lilac silk duchesse satin – very 18th century, but rather difficult for a 21st century man to pull off!

I was pretty confident about my ability to make the jacket, and make it well, but I was much more nervous about my ability to make breeches.  So I chose a fabric that I wouldn’t be heartbroken about if I totally stuffed them up: a $4 a metre heavy cotton with a woven in irregular diagonal rib.  I picked 10 metres of it up at Arthur Toye’s bi-annual 50% off fabric sale.

My breeches and waistcoat cotton

I wanted the breeches and vest to match, so the vest is made out of the same fabric.  Both the vest and the jacket cuffs are trimmed with silver and white borders which I cannibalized from an old scarf.

Pretty glittery from an old scarf - $3 at a thrift shop

I plan to replace the jacket cuffs at some point, but I think of this vest and breeches as ‘stunt’ garments, so the trim will stay on the vest.

The cuffs used the wider decorative border from each end of the scarf

The wider decorative borders had a weird bird motif on them.  I ended up chopping the birds in half, and they are basically upside down on the cuffs, so no-one else knows.  But they still make me giggle when I see them.

Hehe. Chickens

To contrast with the silver trim on the white vest, I used gold buttons from Grandma’s stash.

Gold waistcoat buttons

I love the gold and silver together, and I think it helps break up the cliche of the blue and silver.

I wanted to use gold buttons on the jacket too, but I couldn’t find any that I liked.  I did find gorgeous silver buttons at a reasonable price, so I used them.

Silver buttons on sky blue silk

The buttons are fabulous.  They have mirrors behind the ornamental grid, so they flash and gleam as the jacket moves.  Not quite Louis XIV’s solid diamond buttons, but lovely nonetheless!

Yummy

I also bought matching little gold buttons (they didn’t have large ones) to go on my eventual non-stunt waistcoat and breeches.

Pretty little gold buttons for a later waistcoat and breeches

For now, the breeches are just fastened with boring, pragmatic shell buttons.

Hmmmm...not nearly as pretty