All posts tagged: menswear

The 18th century man’s suit: fabric and trims

I planned and made my 18th century mans suit redux in just a few days, so I had to scrounge in my stash and use whatever I had on hand. For the jacket, I used a fabulous sky blue duchesse silk satin which I picked up at the same time as the beige satin which I dyed for Ninon’s dress: Unfortunately, I forgot that I had a specific project in mind for the sky blue fabric, and now I’m grumpy with myself for using it. However, Daniil is probably very grateful that I didn’t use my other option, which was a lilac silk duchesse satin – very 18th century, but rather difficult for a 21st century man to pull off! I was pretty confident about my ability to make the jacket, and make it well, but I was much more nervous about my ability to make breeches. So I chose a fabric that I wouldn’t be heartbroken about if I totally stuffed them up: a $4 a metre heavy cotton with a woven in irregular …

Making an 18th century man’s jacket: pattern and interfacing

Published by The Dreamstress

Remember how I cut out and started an 18th century man’s jacket? Well, I did, and it worked, and then I lost the sleeves, but I can’t for the life of me remember what I used as a pattern! So when I re-started a 1770s mans ensemble to go with the Lady Anne Darcy dress, I really had to re-start, and find a whole new pattern. This time I used the 1765-1790 man’s suit pattern from Colonial Williamsburg’s Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Pattern. It’s based on this suit: The pattern is relatively simple: a front and back piece, two piece sleeves, cuffs, collar, pocket flaps, and some interfacing and padding. I found the interfacing and padding diagram particularly useful. I used an old linen with a bit of staining for my interfacing, and a bit of flannel for the padding in the chest. I pinned my padding and the interfacing on and basted them down at the same time. A lot of padding wasn’t really necessary: Daniil has a great full chest, and the …

Feeling Grand and Frivilous

Published by The Dreamstress

Here are the images from Grandeur and Frivolity: Music and Fashion in the courts of Louis XIV and Louis XV. The event went beautifully. It was a privilege to work with The Historic Arts Trust, and especially the amazing Clarissa, who arranged all the music and coordinated all the musicians. I’m also deeply indebted to all of the people who made this possible: Mrs C, Madame Ornata (two of the dresses were hers!), all the models, my sister and mother in law, Shell and Joie de Vivre, and of course Mr Dreamy. And you! For suggestions and support and encouragement and research! Seriously – some days when I’m just soooo tired, reading your comments is just the perk-up I need to keep going.