All posts tagged: terminology

Terminology: What is astrakhan?

Astrakhan (also spelled astrachan) is, properly speaking, the tightly curled fleece of the fetal or newborn karakul (also spelled caracul) lamb.  Less accurately, it can also refer to the fleece of fetal or newborn lambs from other species, or a knitted or woven fabric that imitates the looped surface. Astrakhan has a distinctive tight, whorled, loopy surface with a slight sheen.  The younger the lamb, the tighter and shinier the loops.  True astrakhan comes in a range of colours from pale golden yellow to black, though black is the most desirable. This may be the part where you are thinking “fetal or…wait, what!?!”. Yes, the most desirable form of astrakhan is that from a lamb 15-30 days away from being born, and it is sourced by killing both the ewe and the unborn lamb.  Horrific. There are other ways to source astrakhan: either by waiting for the lamb to be born, or by utilizing the pelts of lambs that are born dead (beware that some companies selling lamb-ewe fetal kill astrakhan describe it as ‘stillborn’ …

Terminology: What is a Cromwell Buckle (or Cromwell Shoe)?

Do you love historical shoes?  I LOVE historical shoes.  After all, they combine two of my favourite things: shoes and historical fashions. For this week’s terminology post, let’s look at a a historical shoe term: the Cromwell buckle & shoe and its stylistic relatives. Basically, a Cromwell buckle is an ornamental buckle of metal (often cut steel, and sometimes nickel  or pewter) on the front of a shoe.  In addition to the sparkly cut steel the buckle might be ornamented with paste jewels.  A Cromwell shoe is obviously the shoe worn with the decorative buckle.  Cromwell shoes are generally somewhat 18th century inspired, and usually have medium to high heels. A variant of the Cromwell shoe is the Moliere shoe, which sported a slightly lower heel, and a slightly turned-up toe (though it seems likely that which you chose to call your shoe depended more on the date and your location than the actual style).  Notoriously, Moliere shoes were worn by the first known victim of Joshep Vacher: the French Jack the Ripper. Another variant …

Terminology: What is a picture hat?

A picture hat is a large, broad-brimmed hat, usually rather elaborately trimmed. The name is usually said to come from the way the hat frames the face, like a round picture frame, though I’ve also seen it said that it is because they were considered a revival of historical styles, so the wearer looked like a the women in the paintings of Gainsborough or Reynolds.  Perhaps the real truth is slightly more prosaic, and it is simply that they were worn by those who affected the picturesque. Picture hats became popular in the early 1890s, and remained popular until the early 1910s. The first known use of the term was in 1887, with the term appearing in the fashion notes of NZ newspapers from 1888, and becoming quite common by 1893.  Early mentions indicate they were also called ‘garden hats.’ Picture hats were fantastic for piling on the abundant trimmings of the Edwardian mode, and helped to preserve the complexions of their wearers.  Their attributes weren’t quite so much appreciated by theatre goers and those …