With all the patterning, construction and fitting of the 18th century jacket done, I could now do the finishing touches.
Or more accurately, I could send out a panicked call to a few friends who owed me favours, and get them to do a bunch of the finishing touches for me. This was the week before the Grandeur & Frivolity talk, and I was a just a little overwhelmed and busy.
I sewed the neckband on myself, and did all the buttonholes too.
They are machine done for now, but I will probably do them over by hand at some point. You’ll notice that they aren’t actually opened: this seems to be the case on most 18th century jackets (at least for all but the top few buttonholes).
Darling Shell sewed on all the buttons. She didn’t hide the threads between the layers as I probably would have done, but I’m not sure which is historical. Anyone seen a actual 18th c jacket and how the buttons were sewn on? And am I the only one insane enough to be interested in stuff like exactly what is the proper historical way to sew on buttons?
Shell sewed all the buttons down the front, and the ones on the top of the pleats. That’s a lot of buttons.
I tacked down the pleats from the back so that they hung properly. There is still some raw fabric showing, and I’m not sure how to finish that nicely. Is this how it’s supposed to be done? Did I cut the jacket properly? What is the correct way to finish the top of jacket pleats? Lauren I’m looking at you!
Finally, the false pocket flaps got sewed on. I was so busy at this point I really can’t remember who did the sewing. Was it me or someone else!?!
I didn’t measure the flap positions: I just eyed where they went, pinned the flaps on and basted them on. You can see the basting stitches show through the lining.
I may go back and make these real pockets in the future, but for now the faux pocket flaps do the job.
Whether or not to make real pockets is still up in the air, but the one thing I definitely do want to do is to bind the edges of the armholes so that they aren’t raw.
First I want to try the jacket on a few more men, to make sure that it will fit a range of models if the amazing Daniil isn’t available.