With the Under-it-All challenge coming up on the Historical Sew Fortnightly I offered to write a tutorial on how to make paniers, and the idea was met with much enthusiasm. So, from Jan 30th to Feb 8th I’ll be leading a Panier-Along, providing a simple pattern and walking you through the steps of making your own set of paniers.
My panier pattern is based on information in Norah Waugh’s Corsets & Crinolines, and on the panier pattern at Tidens TÃ¸j. It creates a set of separate basket hoops that give a modestly wide silhouette, suitable for informal dress (e.g. not court wear) in the 1760s and 70s.
The tutorial will focus on being easy and simple (I’ll probably be sewing by machine), with an accurate silhouette, rather than strictly historical accurate, but it shouldn’t be too hard to adapt to be perfectly accurate if you would prefer.
The challenge doesn’t start until the 29th, but we need time to assemble our materials. If you want to participate you will need:
- 1 yard/95cm of mid to heavyweight fabric at least 112cm wide. The historically accurate option would be a tightly woven mid-weight linen, or a polished cotton canvas, but they are also fun to make out of lighter weight upholstery brocades and other fashion fabrics. Just pick something that doesn’t fray or warp too badly.
- 4 yards/3.7 metres of metal hoop boning or basket cane. Other things that can be used are fibreglass curtain rods (for making Roman blinds), the metal tapes that hold crates together (though these rust badly) and narrow black plastic garden piping.
- 4 yards/3.7 metres of strong twill tape for your boning/hoop channels wide enough that it can be sewn down to a piece of fabric and your boning can slip through and fit relatively snugly. Alternatively, you can make your own tape by cutting strips of your fabric and folding the edges under, or you can create channels with two full layers of fabric for the sides of the paniers. You will need an extra 20″/50cm of fabric (it need not match your outer fabric) for either of these two options.
- 2x your waist measurement (I use 150cm/60″) of 1/2″ / 1.5cm twill tape for your waist tie. This twill tape does not need to be as strong as that for your hoop channels.
- Optional: 26 feet (312″) /8 metres of 1/2″ / 1.5cm twill tape cut into 12 26″ lengths for your front and back ties
I’ll be making mine out of a midweight linen with the twill tape you see above, and cane boning.
Are you planing to Panier-Along? What will you be making yours out of? Here is a little button for you to put on your blog if you wish:
For now, happy shopping/stash tossing!