20th Century, What I wear

Sea and sky and sunset hills inspiration

I’m working ahead on my ‘By The Sea’ Historical Sew Fortnightly items.  I’d love to make a fantastic Victorian or Edwardian wool bathing suit, but alas, am making myself be a teeny bit practical and sensible and I’m making two items which both come from stash, and have been on my to-do list for ages and ages.

The first is more sea inspired than strictly by-the-sea.  I’ve got a wedding to go to this autumn, and haven’t got a suitable dress (really, they are all too formal, or not formal enough, or black or white or scarlet, none of which will do).

One evening, out for my walk, thinking of inspiration dresses and trying to decide what to make, I stopped at my favourite outlook for the view.  I love the last hour of light in New Zealand in the autumn: it’s one of things that reconciles me to the oncoming winter.  The sea calms and goes the most delicious grey-blue, and the hills glow gold with the reflected light.

Grey blue sea and golden hills

Grey blue sea and golden hills

The combination is so distinct, and striking, and at the moment when I looked out at this view, the hills reminded me of my Capelet of Yay, wrapping their warmth around the cool blue of the harbour like a velvet stole.

Grey blue sea and golden hills

Grey blue sea and golden hills

Could I replicate that look?  Create a dress the colour of the sea at evening, and pair it with my velvet and be the sea and hills at sunset?  At first I wanted the dress to be in silk crepe – a simple, straight, strapless sheath that hung from my bust to the floor without any shaping.  Alas (but to the benefit of my vow to sew only from stash) I could not find a single piece of silk crepe in Wellington in the right shade of blue.  There was grey, and sky blue, and teal blue, but nothing grey-blue.  I’d almost given up when I remembered this lace in my stash:

Evening blue cotton/synthetic lace

Evening blue cotton/synthetic lace

I’d hoped to make this up as an evening gown for Art Deco Weekend last year, but it hadn’t happened. Sewing it up would mean I was sewing from stash, and getting something off my to-do list.  Of course, since it is lace, the simple sheath idea I had had wouldn’t quite do it justice.

I’d originally thought of using my wedding dress pattern:

Excella E3575

Excella E3575

When I inspected it again, I decided all the seaming was much too fussy for the lace, though the silhouette was perfect.  I looked for other inspiration.

I love the simple lines and exposed shoulders of this 1936 beauty:

Simple Simple Simple - The tiny V decollete held by great clip. The back bare, sleeveless, a corselet front, and a skirt spreading in soft folds on the floor. Auckland Star, 19 Dec 1936

Simple Simple Simple – The tiny V decollete held by great clip. The back bare, sleeveless, a corselet front, and a skirt spreading in soft folds on the floor. Auckland Star, 19 Dec 1936 via Papers Past

And the cuttaway back of the floral frock in this pair:

Two evening gowns (back), 1930s. Left- Floral-printed crepe with bustle back and trained skirt. Right- Wine velvet with matching belt with millefleur beaded buckle.

Two evening gowns (back), 1930s. Left- Floral-printed crepe with bustle back and trained skirt. Right- Wine velvet with matching belt with millefleur beaded buckle. Kerry Taylor Auctions

And finally, the way the lace is simply sewn as a fabric, with distinct seamlines instead of lace matching, in ’30s frocks like these ones:

Dress, 1935, via The Frock

Dress, 1935, via The Frock

1930s lace dress, Vintage Textile

1930s lace dress, Vintage Textile

So, I’ll be making a mid 1930s lace evening dress, with a slim trumpet/mermaid silhouette, exposed shoulders and a cutaway back.  The pattern?  What about a modified, evening version of my Garden Party Frock?

Perfect!  Solved!  And away I go to sew…

13 Comments

    • Thanks Kate-Em! I’m really hoping it comes out as I hope/imagine. The sea in NZ is simply stunning, whether it is being wild and stormy, or still and serene.

  1. Beautiful photos for inspiration…your evening dress will look stunning – can’t wait to see it … J

  2. Blue-grey sea and golden hills are just fabulous…
    And the sheath would not only not do the lace justice, I think it would not make the capelet justice. A 30s-style frock is a much worthier companion to it!

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    • Thanks Hana! I think they are such a striking combination.

      I actually have a simple sheath frock (in white and cream, so I can’t wear it to weddings) that I already wear the cape with, and amazingly, it actually looks very 1930s. But I’m even more excited about the lace – I’ve had it for such a long time and haven’t been able to bring myself to cut into it.

  3. Lynne says

    I love the way you have translated your inspiration from the landscape!

  4. Sounds fantastic — love the pack of the floral dress (I have a dress that’s similar, and it feels awesome to wear).

    Your description of the sea felt very Emily of New Moon, or Anne of Green Gables. That’s a compliment. 🙂

    • Thanks T! I suspected this would be just your sort of dress! That racer-back is such a good style if you have slim shoulders and back, and I really want to show mine off at the moment.

      I certainly do take that as a compliment! I usually make myself restrain from getting too Anne-ish in my writing, but sometimes I can’t help a long rhapsody about the scenery. 😉

  5. I can’t wait to see it!!! It’s just GOT to turn out beautifully with that fabric and pattern combo.

    • Thanks Emileigh! I’m super excited about the fabric – I’ve been hoarding it and drooling over it for a couple of years now, waiting for just the right pattern.

  6. Janet says

    Sounds gorgeous – can’t wait to see it. Love the inspiration.

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