When I posted about the Modern Red Riding Hood Cape, I promised to post some construction details.
The cape is made from McCalls M6446. I made some changes to the pattern:
I cut the the pattern as directed, except for side back panel 6. The pattern has the grainline placed so that the grain of the fabric runs straight across the shoulder:
I felt this gave the cape a stiff, tent-like shape, and wasted fabric, so instead I cut panel 6 with the side-back seam (the seam facing down in the image above) cut parallel to the selvedge, along the grain of the fabric. Not only does this improve the fall of the cape (in my opinion), it also saves fabric.
You can see here how the grainline as panel 6 meets the side-front seam is almost cross-wise of the grain now:
M6446 doesn’t come with a pattern for the lining. To make one, I cut the lining fabric the same as the outer fabric for the side-back panels 6. I pleated and sewed the lower back piece to the upper back yoke, and then used that as a pattern piece for a back lining piece.
This means that my back lining piece has no pleat, so the lining is not quite as full as the outer cape. This is not a problem in wearing (in fact, it probably would be a problem if there was a pleat to the lining).
For the front piece, I cut a lining piece the same as the outer, minus the facing, plus seam allowances.
In order to still have arm slits with a lining, I left gaps in the lining the same size as the arm slits, and then hand-stitched them down around the gaps, just as you would stitch around the inside of a bound buttonhole.
I hemmed the red lining with a tiny narrow rolled hem, and hemmed the wool with a line of bias tape, hand-catch stitched to the outer.
And since I love piping, and had some over from piping marathon 2013, I put a layer of tiny white piping between the lining and the facing, just as you might see a fold of a contrast fabric between the lining and facing of a really lovely man’s suit. It doesn’t show up well in photographs, but looks spectacular in person, and provides just the perfect custom finishing touch.
Everyone who has seen it says “Oooooh…”
Oh, and a few cool bits:
I really, really, really wanted to line this cape in the rose patterned red viscose jacquard. I didn’t actually have enough of it. So I pieced:
And I pieced:
And then I pieced some more:
(Goodness. Sorry these look so crap. They look great on my computer, it’s only once I upload them to the blog that they turn into glowing red pits of sewing evil).
And there ’tis!