For the HSF ‘Green’ challenge, I’m keeping it simple, and making a mid-1920s evening gown out of some fantastic dark jade & ecru silk that I bought over four years ago, and have been waiting for the opportunity to make up ever since.
The silk is a heavier habotai, and it instantly reminded of the fabulous textile that Raol Dufy designed for Paul Poiret’s 1911 ‘La Perse’ coat:
‘La Perse’ coat, Paul Poiret (French, Paris 1879—1944 Paris) Textile by Raoul Dufy (French, Le Havre 1877—1953 Forcalquier), 1911, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005.199
‘La Perse’ coat, Paul Poiret (French, Paris 1879—1944 Paris) Textile by Raoul Dufy (French, Le Havre 1877—1953 Forcalquier), 1911, Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005.199
‘La Perse’, 1911, Paul Poiret, fabric design by Raoul Dufy
Dufy’s design was printed on cotton velvet, rather than silk habotai, and is over decade earlier than the date I’m aiming for with my dress. However, there is evidence of similar prints in later ’20s fashion.
This Lanvin dress is made from warp-printed silk taffeta. The fabric is a bit ‘sweeter’ than my print, and so is the cut of the dress. I think my fabric needs a slightly more sophisticated, slinkier cut to show it off to its best advantage.
Evening dress, Jeanne Lanvin, mid 1920s, Drexel Costume Collection
Not quite this sophisticated and slinky though:
Fashion plate, 1923
This has distinct possibilities:
Evening dress, House of Worth (French, 1858—1956), Designer – Jean-Charles Worth (French, 1881—1962), ca. 1925, French, silk, metal, Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.2116
As does this:
Evening dress, 1926-1928, Drecoll, Maggy Rouff, National Museum of American History
I’m can’t find an exact example of the idea in my head for my dress, but I know what I’m going to do. I’ll be using my basic 1920s block and the Vionnet ‘Chiton’ dress variants I’ve played with to draft the design. As long as I can keep from getting trapped in my own brain, it should be easy. It’s that brain part that’s always the hardest though…
For now, I’m just working on deciding which bit of kimono silk to use for my under-slip!
That fabric is superb!
Ooh! Instant fabric love! Can’t wait to see the result.
I’m in love with the Poiret coat! Not seen it before – wonderful fabric, and wonderful, simple, elegant shape for such a fabric.
Yours is beautiful, too – a real find, and a pleasing green. I look forward to seeing the finished product.
An excellent fabric for a 20’s dress. I look forward to seeing the results.
hmmm… for now I’m giving everything I’ve seen here 10 / 10
Love the House of Worth dress! If you have any cloth you could make a matching shoulder cape and head band. Can’t wait to see what you choose
I love these excellent dresses, the fabric is best!